369: PMW Day 5 + 6 / Oakleys everywhere else
Plus what the designers are actually wearing.
Welcome to Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we’ll be covering shoppable observations from scenes of interest daily: Paris Men’s Week, Days 3+4.
Weather report
88ºF / 31º C — Thank god for my big Japanese shirts.
Itinerary
Saturday, June 28
10.30a Kiko Kostadinov show (Excitingly wearable, Japan-tilted tailoring and denim, and down below, socks with flip-flops, and some new Tabi ASICS. Also: so many members of the production team were wearing Oakleys.)
1.30p The Ouze showroom (Fresh off meeting the Princess of Wales, Ouze jewelry is now showing up on Damson Idris in F1, and commissions are coming in for more secret diamond rings after we covered them in March. 🚀)
2.15p Adidas showroom. (Expect to see the new Megarides, previewed here by Devon Lee Carlson and set to be Adidas’ focus for the coming months—out everywhere soon.)
3p Awaykin showroom (Catching up with Berner Kühl, Bleue Burnham, Wanze, and Gottlob, whose founder Moritz Gottlob is so busy in Cologne that he’s had to create a WhatsApp group to hire local Gen Zs to come round on Sundays and make the bracelets with him.)
4p Conkers showroom
5p au CONCOURS showroom
6.30p Lady White Co. x Kaptain Sunshine drinks
Sunday, June 29
10.30a Salon C. Lundman showroom (Ryota Iwai, Auralee’s founder and artistic director, came by during my appointment—wearing a Salon C. Lundman shirt. That’s just as good as it gets. So excited for Christoffer to start delivering to stores in the coming months.)
11.30a Gabriela Coll Garments showroom (So many men’s buyers are coming to see her that Gabriela is almost nostalgic for her ladies. Almost.)
12.30p Georgia showroom (It’s designer Maria Dora’s first Paris, but A$AP Rocky has already worn a Georgia set, as has Kendrick Lamar, thanks to stylists Matthew Henson and Taylor McNeil admiring the designs. Turns out Maria also knitted all of the fisherman’s sweaters worn in Dunkirk, and created the original Wanda hats with Emily Dawn Long. Talent.)
1p Soshiotsuki and Kanemasa Phil showroom
2p Kartik Research show
3p Sire showroom (Where I also discovered Ludwig Reiter, who designed much of Rier’s shoe line.)
4p Stein showroom (No surprise after last year’s visit, but I can confirm that the clothes Laura liked on Tuesday’s runway feel even better on.)
5p Eytys showroom (After combusting in January, the brand is back with Acne backing, a new man in charge, and a focus on only making footwear that’s actually comfortable.
The looks
Saturday: MAN-TLE Rock Linen Gum Shirt $745 / Comme des Garçons shirt, vintage / Hanes Undershirt $24 / Margaret Howell Linen Trousers (two years old) / Yahae socks $30 / Doek Court Canvas Sneaker $127
Sunday: Auralee Finx Twill Big Shirt $420 / Save Khaki United Weekend Chino, British Khaki $142, Maximum Henry Standard Belt $150, same shoes
Shopping gossip
Once I saw all the Oakley shades at Kiko, I couldn’t stop. (They were also being worn all over the Adidas space, by Maachew Bentley at drinks on Friday night, and seemingly everywhere on the streets—I was never more than a few feet from the ‘O’ Ellipse.) It’s not a style I see in my usual circles, but we’re clearly the exception. And after my own sunglasses kept slipping down my nose in the heat all week, I’m not opposed to going sport mode.
Everyone wants to try on my MAN-TLE jacket. Purchasing it at C’H’C’M’ was more than I’d ever spent on clothing outside of a suit, but I’m loving it more every day.
(Literal) Designer clothing: Ollie from Conkers was wearing a pretty great ‘Land Lover’ (styled like Land Rover) cap. Knickerbocker’s Andrew Livingston made even Seavees look cool. Outside of his own collection, Christoffer Lundman wore Birkenstock Arizonas and a Cartier Tank—joined by Auralee’s Ryota Iwai in his Cartier Baignore. Carter Young wore a white Uniqlo U button-up shirt to Kartik, where Throwing Fits’ James Harris was in a Colbo shirt and Our Legacy’s Ten Pin shoe.
Otherwise, the shopping intel I most want to act on now is going through the currently-available items from the designers whose collections spoke most to me this week. Every appointment I made was because I liked the brand already, but if I’m going to be honest about what I’m most coveting on a gut level: It’s Salon C. Lundman, Gabriela Coll Garments, Stein, Conkers, Kaptain Sunshine, Lady White Co., MAN-TLE, and some more mfpen. That’s just my taste though, and yours may be more exciting—if I’ve included a brand in this latest round of Paris Men’s Week coverage, (Days 1 + 2, Days 3 + 4) I really believe they’re worth your attention. Thanks for following along.
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what kind of oakleys are we talking about here?