368: PMW Day 3 + 4 / The prevailing party look
Plus truly Auralee-levels of commitment and Mfpen’s shirting range, decoded.
Welcome to Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we’ll be covering shoppable observations from scenes of interest daily: Paris Men’s Week, Days 3+4
Weather report
81ºF / 27º C — The storm has broken, but it’s sticky out.
Itinerary
Thursday, June 26
10a Haven breakfast
11.30a Gajiroc showroom (Fall-Winter, which I saw in January, will land at C'H'C'M' soon.)
12.30p Palmes showroom
1.30p Mfpen showroom (This collection’s premise? “If mall goths were forced into corporate jobs.”)
2p Graphpaper pop-up
2.30p Yoke showroom
3p Ghiaia Cashmere showroom
4p Kaptain Sunshine showroom (If I did a PFW conversational brand rank, Kaptain Sunshine might just take top spot. Tried the skate shoecut jeans—might be the nicest light blue wash out there.)
5p The Society Archive drinks
5.30p Working showroom (Debut collaborative collection from Tender and Middle Distance. Ran into The Ouze’s Toby Vernon trying on everything.)
6.15p Literary Sport drinks
7p Colbo party at Le Marie Celeste
8p Mfpen x Lady White Co. dinner at Le Hangar
Friday, June 27
11a Carter Young showroom (Cecile Tulkens was brought in to help on knits—London link-up!)
12p MAN/WOMAN trade show for 3sixteen + Batoner
1p Auralee showroom (The yellow jacket’s already a buyer hit, as is the cinched green beach jacket, made from shirting fabric.)
1.45p Niceness showroom (Fabrics have to be felt to be understood, but Beams America has some for now. Look at their improved shoulder tote, which sold out fast at Canoe Club.)
7p Jeanerica cocktails, hosted by Martha Pirrie White
7.30p MAN-TLE and Evan Kinori 10-year anniversary celebration
8.30p Dinner with Studio Nicholson and Lawrence Schlossman
10. Our Legacy x Stüssy event
The look
Featuring Kevin Carney, founder of Mohawk General Store
Nicholas Daley green cord hat / Lemaire cotton and steel zip jacket / Lemaire belt / Our Legacy tobacco linen shorts / Auralee socks / Hender Scheme shoes / Dad’s Rolex / Sacai x Porter bag / Dries van Noten mesh tank
Shopping gossip
The Auralee team brought 1,000 pieces to Paris, and—having heard horror stories about freight shipping being delayed—custom-made 17 cardboard boxes, each weighed perfectly to the 23kg limit, to hand-check onto their commercial flight over. Incredible!
Despite the sandal discourse, I’m not seeing many flip-flops worn out yet, at least in my circles. I am seeing black technical sandals, especially from the Japanese side. Kaptain Sunshine founder and designer Shinsuke Kojima is spending the week in Vivobarefoot’s Tracker Sandal, for example, while I cold-approached agent Dany Dembele about his Vibram Furoshikis, and also my Graphpaper host about his (apparently impossible to get) Mizuno / Wave Prophecy straps. And you can always count on spotting Garbstore buyer Karin Nakanishi in some Keen UNEEKs.
Judging by how often my appointment is being rescheduled, Conkers is having a very good first Paris—love to see it!
Met Fane co-founder Laurie-Anne Braun at the Blackbird Spyplane party, who clarified that her patent bags are to be worn with textured clothing, and her matte ones with shinier clothes. Gnuhr founder Nur Abbas (who’s worked with Martin Margiela, Kim Jones, and Christophe Lemaire, and is now letting his brain fly on his own brand) was in the thinnest sandals I’ve ever seen.
That said! The prevailing men’s look at all of these parties—ours, Colbo’s, Spyplane’s, etc. continues to be logoless, comfortable, relaxed tailoring. Typically, that’s a well-worn, loose black, brown or blue shirt (never with a button-down collar), worn over darker trousers—not as many jeans for now, might just be the heat—and anchored by some well-worn, unbranded shoes. A nightmare to ID, but everyone looks good.
That said: Here are some examples of the look I’d buy if I wasn’t running around out here, and had bottomless pockets: Shirt, second shirt, polo, pants, trousers, another shirt, overshirt.
Magasin was the first press invited into Mfpen’s showroom. For current season shoppers, I had Sigurd Pantalon decode the big four within Mfpen’s shirting range. The Generous is dressiest, with no placket, the Executive has a placket and a pocket, the Exact is the widest, and the Priority is more of a jacket shape. Pants-wise, Sigurd wears the Service most, and the current-season gray jeans.
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Kevin Carney wearing my dream shoes rn — love it sm
Super!