200: Does it pass the want-to-wear-it test?

Future Shopping NYFW's fall runways.

Welcome to Future Shopper, a special-edition send rounding up the best runway pieces to budget for next season (with see-now-buy-now insights throughout). Today, with NYFW in the rear view mirror, we’re looking back at the things we’re most likely to be purchasing come Fall ‘24. See last season’s Future Shoppers here.

It was hard to pull out just a few top pieces from Altuzarra’s season-defining show. Between this and its SS24 collection, it’s becoming clear that we should dig up some of the energy we had for the Toryssaince and allocate it to the ‘Zarrassaince. The pillbox hats and flouncy harlequin necklines are both extremely of-the-moment and hugely shoppable, and other accessories drive a sense of urgency for how precisely they nailed it: slouchy ‘80s boots that fulfill the missing link you and I were feeling and commenting on since the advent of last season’s babouche boot; a new fighter in the Loro Piana Rebecca Ballerina v. The Row Almond Pump ring; petite travel cases; and logoless (dare we hope?) lady bags with elegant fastenings. Then there’s the broad, tonal buttons on the leftmost trench…that argyle knit…the felted jackets…like I said, it’s extremely hard to play favorites within this favorite of the week.

What to buy now: The aforementioned mini pumps from Loro Piana and The Row are evergreen in their wardrobe use cases. On the bag front, those envelope clutches are already for sale, and Altuzarra’s Doctor Bag (a smart pre-order to make) perfectly captures the elegance of the silhouettes coming next season. The drapey gabardine-seeming trench echoes the Studio Nicholson one I wore this week, and we all know Khaite does a great patterned sweater, but here’s a Kule one for under $400.

The latest from Tory Burch reads like a marriage between “new Tory” and “old Tory,” or I guess “classic Tory” is more flattering. And I think it works! It’s been a bit of a jumpscare to see one vision on the runways and then fire up toryburch.com and be confronted with a million Miller logos, like nothing had changed. This iteration helps blend the two camps more seamlessly. Out of the existing brand codes come a harnessed leather handbag with signature fleur-de-lis-like embossing, monogram tights that read “Sublime” all around them in place of any brand name, and the pierced-toe shoes that have become a mainstay since the metamorphosis took place. Anew are some things that made me gasp: a tablecloth-like embossed leather skirt; many skirts, actually, including a sexy and complicated sheer red style that takes me to Elizabeth Hurley in Bedazzled (need to rewatch ASAP); half-open leather mules that could be Church’s x Miu Miu; and utility jackets paired with flouncy hems that—I can’t remember if it was Stella or Rory, but—someone correctly referred to as quinoa dresses.

What to buy now: There’s a pair of pierced flats available on site (rare, as they’re usually sold out), but the runways have been bullish on heels—this cutout pair is leaning into next season’s energy. And the Church’s x Miu Miu brogues really do scratch an itch. It won’t be leather, but Sea naturally has a skirt with tablecloth energy, the runway styling tip being to pair it with an off-white patent or PVC trench.

I wrote about Colleen Allen (and fellow debut brand LII Studio) earlier this week, and what my gut told me when I first saw it before the official NYFW schedule had even kicked off—that it was one of the best collections I’d see this season—remains true. Her fleece hook-and-eye jacket, opera coat, and knit swim caps remained seared in my brain in their full, explosive citrus color. Paul Helber’s brand Fforme (which is only three seasons old, itself) also send knit swim caps down the runway and flexed a powerful color-palette muscle of its own with optic whites and blended navy-and-black looks.

What to buy now: It was almost impossible to take a clear picture of the lucite-and-hoop Patricia Von Musulin earrings at Fforme, but I’m deep diving on the jeweler now and have fallen for many sculptural pieces: clip-on shell-like earrings in sterling and gold vermeil, a sterling and bone ring, a lucite cocktail ring, and many-stranded necklaces. The minimalist approach of both designers paired with a strong sense of color draws lines to Issey Miyake—this envelope dress in an arresting cobalt blue and pleated tangerine jacket are cousins to either brand.

Bevza might be the most underrated name on the calendar—between this collection and the last (our current season), Svitlana Bevza has given us not only fantastic elevated basics like shirting with extraordinary necklines and actually wearable unique silhouettes (I’m looking at that drop-shoulder coat, the apron dress), but also a plausible new emblem to sport in the form of her window logo. The prices are also extremely fair if not underselling themselves. I’’m very much looking forward to buying and wearing this lineup come fall.

What to buy now: There’s a great sale underway on Bevza’s site, which brings this braided dress down to $275, this knit skirt down to $180, and this cocoon coat to $550. While not on sale, this incredible egg brooch is only $160.

As over as we all seem to be of the edgy, cool girl schtick, Khaite continues to pass the “do I want to wear it?” test with distinction. I’ll pass on the XXL leathers and Saint Laurent-redux plunging necklines, but am unabashedly swayed by Holstein’s softer, quirkier tendencies—hooded column dresses, Grecian goddess skirts, poppy silk scarf prints. These, to me, and much cooler than the sunglasses-at-night bit that continues to rear its head in her collections.

What to buy now: The thing about Khaite’s better pieces is that it’s impossible to source substitutes. You can only fill the gap with more Khaite—the price of leathers on the site are a bit hard to stomach, but this jacket and skirt on resale are a bit more manageable. I will say that the art deco prints reminded me, perhaps because of their recent archive event, of Marimekko’s retro textiles. And the scarf-patterned silk inevitably calls to mind Phoebe’s Céline.

Proenza Schouler’s marquee look was a white (rabbit?) fur coat that inspired a collective, mycelium-like sense of desire, despite the PETA activity seen elsewhere during the week. But beyond that and the masterful styling by Camilla Nickerson—fringed dresses worn as skirts, scarves safety-pinned into tops, sheer turtlenecks over Oxford shirts, tonal latex socks—there weren’t a ton of other pieces that aroused the “I would die to wear this” feeling I look for in these recaps.

What to buy now: Vintage fur now and always (come on guys…); there’s a great one in the same vein on Etsy and another (if slightly worse for wear) for only $168 on eBay. The second I saw the sheer turtleneck trick, I thought of these great-priced modal cashmere ones from Intimissimi, which I have a few of and wear consistently (these also work for channeling Khaite). The red sandals were actually a continuation from the (more novel-feeling) current season and already for sale.

Sandy Liang’s latest represents the youthful side of the ‘60s revival underway, with space age-y minis and white go-go heels. But it also marks an era of growing up for the designer, who I’m thrilled to see offer more everyday pieces among her signature coquette. The duchess satin, cut-neckline knits, and parkas were faves for me.

What to buy now: Proenza’s current-season windbreaker is the best parka on the market, a sentiment I’m doubling down on since seeing it in the front row last week. The little bowling bags are definitely giving Miu Miu at maximum mini.

The real-clothes movement certainly showed up this season. Kallmeyer delivered on excellent suiting, as to be expected, but also pushed further into evening dresses with a gorgeously draped long-sleeve gown, plus the quarter-zip knits killed it; Maria McManus’s formalwear came in the form of sequined knit knickers and a matching pouch bag—her comb brooch ultimately stole the top spot in my heart; Veronica de Piante gave us a great skinny leather coat and a corduroy suit (as did Interior).

What to buy now: VDP’s corduroy suit (jacket, pants) is already available in camel at Net-A-Porter, you’ll just have to wait ‘til fall for the moss green. The Maria comb brooch feels like a next-gen talisman to supersede the objects-on-cords of spring—Studio Dévé’s lighter necklace comes to mind. And here’s a quarter-zip from Cos I quite like in the meantime.

Tibi is going all-in on premium denim with a new Japanese fabrication to level up its growing cult category, and I’m extremely excited about a mesh-y skirt in a material inspired by girdles (terrible pic, great piece). Marina Moscone re-showed its cowbell necklace, which I loved from last season, but still haven’t seen drop, plus it broke my feed with an amazing green coat. At Eckhaus Latta, their proprietary breed of casual, comfortable sensuality and staunch individualism was pretty refreshing, like, there are many ways to be smart and serious that don’t have to look archetypal.

What to buy now: Tibi’s Syd jeans that ascended the brand into divine denim status. Marina Moscone’s other jewelry, like these ear cuffs that look like Ana Khouri. And Bruce Weber-era Abercrombie knits inspired by Eckhaus’ incredible marls.

On the accessories front, Coach’s I <3 NY bags were actually amazing, and so credible coming from the the brand versus any other. I probably won’t remember any of the other pieces, but I do think its outerwear is great quality for a nice price. Puppets and Puppets’ last show won’t be going into production, per the news of the brand shifting to accessories only (and moving to London)—you’d think they’d have gone harder on the bag front that being the case, but at least there were a couple conceivable options, like this windswept croc leather mini. And at Luar, all eyes on Beyoncé in that XL Ana bag—that alone spells a gangbusters season for Raul Lopez.

What to buy now: The messy bag is in its prime—Balenciaga’s Rodeo Bag, recently described to me as “the poor woman’s Birkin,” is available for pre-order, or right away in the fully-decorated version (though at $10,200, who are you calling poor?), as is Miu Miu’s clutter-magnet. Luar’s small iridescent Ana is only $265.

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