197: A duet of opera coats
Plus an end date for the SSENSE sale, Lisa Yang turns 10, and what to buy from "New Bally."
Two of the most interesting propositions of NYFW so far were off-calendar, coming from designers showing their first collections at their own brands, at showrooms by appointment only, and boasting reasonable-within-context price points. They both featured palettes of citrus and true red against white, exploratory textiles, and opera coats. Maximizing the ease and comfort of femininity was a stated core value for both brands.
But for all their similarities, eponymous brand Colleen Allen and LII Studio by Zane Li are coming from very different vantage points: Colleen recently moved on from a position designing menswear at The Row, where she landed after working under Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, in order to make a reality out of the womenswear world that had been brewing inside of her for some time. She is working with fleece and velvet, treating the divergent pile weaves with equal reverence, assigning them to carefully tailored hook-and-eye jackets with attentive linings and skirts with deconstructed finishes.
Zane, a recent graduate from FIT, is experimenting with batted fabrics that remake simple designs like t-shirts and pencil skirts (with a twist! they tack between the knees like drop-crotch shorts). Zane is young, and the pieces are still somewhat crude, but charmingly so, not unlike the early Jacquemus designs I’d fawn over at Opening Ceremony however many years ago that would have been.
That the two designers have traversed vastly different paths and converged here is telling about the direction that fashion is heading (good, young brands are a more reliable metric for change than more heavily “merchandised” established labels). Colleen’s 19th century leanings and Zane’s natural instinct towards scale and drama advance the narrative of the vibe shift I outlined (and am continuing to investigate) a few weeks ago. It’s not every week you see two versions of a garment as sidelined as an opera coat (plus a third in my inbox from a brand called MARGARET), a three-alarm case for contemplation: Their vestments are the true testaments.
A deeper dissection of NYFW’s worth-your-buck pieces is coming later this week. Until then, keep reading for all the latest shopping news.
With News Editor
What’s new
Is there a place in the luxury world for collections that don’t feel fresh or urgent, but rather settled and self-assured? If you think so, consider it filled by The Row, with a SS24 collection that feels like Linklater’s Before Sunrise: obvious but charming (white poplin bubble hems and Manoogian-ian felted slippers, though lovely, aren’t pushing any envelopes in 2024), with both featuring burgundy turtleneck sweaters, though it’s doubtful Ethan Hawke’s was two-ply cashmere.
Bergdorf claimed the exclusive first launch of Jil Sander’s SS24, a prescient collection with a bag in loopy fringe leather a season ahead of Alaïa’s ultra-similar FW24 accessories and ankle-buckling ballet flats that skew dance teacher rather than ingénue (in the vein of the Jacquemus x Repetto joint we covered the other week), rounded out by a cream dress trimmed in black lacework as tough but tender as a floral sketch by Niki de Saint Phalle.
Tibi’s SS24 collection borrows Japanese design sensibilities for a circular silk blouse, harnesses hardy materials like chino in understated skirt sets, and adds special touches like excess buttons along the neckline of a slim cashmere cardigan—an upgraded spiritual successor to the bygone-for-now mall pit stop.
To celebrate its first decade of business, Lisa Yang released its “Ten Year Collection”: 10 exclusive reimaginations of its signature knits, including a drapey, olive, single-button cardigan coat; a crewneck sweater in a shade of faded grape; and a chunky, poppy-red turtleneck; all in 100% cashmere.
Alongside pieces like this cashmere sweater emblazoned with the new logo we were airdropped last season post-show, Proenza Schouler’s SS24 collection arrived full of looks featured on the runway, like a wrap-style riff on the house dress silhouette that’s been dominated by Batsheva since 2016, a strapless leather gown gathered above the knees, and a petal-collared anorak in rugged nylon gabardine.
Bally’s SS24 offerings revolve around its accessories: Aside from the collection of “Ballyrina” flats we covered in January, there are tons of sneakers that give “Adidas meets Etnies” (if you remember, you remember) and come in considered colorways like bubblegum/maroon, plus gold-and-pearl earrings, structured top-handle bags, and more decked with the Bally logo (the cheugy jury is out on whether its subtle infinity sign holds iconographic promise).
DKNY’s earnest relaunch is clearly aimed at Gen Z, with almost all prices well under $300 and a slightly clunky-feeling attempt to marry athleisure with logomania—nylon bags with bungee straps are sold alongside Vuitton-aspiring leather purses and cargo skorts next to DKNY-printed twill maxi skirts.
Lauren Manoogian’s SS24 early arrivals strip down trends to their least-trendy, most-essential elements, inoculating them against the fickle flow of time; e.g. a structured tan bodice/vest might recall last year’s Beaufille, and a pair of canvas trousers are in the same barrel silhouette that’s been TikTok’s latest point of contention this past month, but both present themselves anew thanks to Manoogian’s stringent minimalism.
In addition to the Alaïa-like $150 pleated midi skirt that earned its own Magasin headline last week, J.Crew’s Valentine’s Day collection includes plenty of Chanel-coded pieces at similarly affable price points—cap-toed slingback heels in pink suede and patent cherry, a litany of thickly-knit cardigans with festive trim and gold hardware in the classic Chanel jacket shape, and pieces like a crystalline necklace from last year’s Anna October collaboration, some of which are marked down 15% with EXTRA.
The Sir. SS24 collection is very Italian summer-centric, with asymmetric, knotted mini dresses in floral patterns inspired by palazzo wallpapers, button-down shirts with faux bikini triangles (à la a shirt we’ve highlighted by Fashion Brand Company) printed upon cream and chocolate stripes, and a selection of swimwear like this one-shoulder suit decorated with amber beads at the strap.
Loulou Studio’s SS24 collection is business-minded, with office-friendly suits like a standard oversized gray blazer plus trouser combo all in virgin wool; an Agnès B-esque, button-heavy cashmere cardigan; and for the self-employed, a cropped sweater with slightly flared sleeves and a deep U neckline that feels like a tamer (and more affordable) cousin to Interior’s omnipresent Bruno sweater.
For those of us who skew more Vegas than Venice Beach, Magniberg’s new PJs offer a smarmier-than-Tekla take on genderless cotton sets, with color ways ranging from Hugh Hefnerian black and red to Wolf of Wall Street pinstripes, all with plenty of pockets primed for a dog walk or sojourn to the corner store.
Casey Casey’s SS24 menswear drop presents itself material-first, with pieces like a stand collar quilted jacket and a pistachio-colored button down hewn in a crinkly “paper cotton” designed to mature gracefully with each wash.
The denim in Jeanerica’s SS24 collection ranges from slouchy jean/chinos (jeanos? Let’s workshop) to a white jacket printed with faded black polka dots and featuring an intricate zig-zag button placket plus a matching mini skirt.
Allegedly inspired by experiences had while asleep, Tory Burch’s new Essence of Dreams perfume collection features five scents packaged in matching monogrammed bottles and ranging from spicy, vetiver-y “Cosmic Wood” (one must wonder what kind of dream inspired that name) to “Mystic Geranium,” made with responsibly-sourced florals and spiked with an invigorating dose of bergamot.
There’s also: Jean Paul Gaultier’s Tattoo collection expands with even more mesh pieces inspired by old-timey sailor uniforms and traditional seafarer ink; Cecilie Bahnsen uses Nona Source’s archive of deadstock LVMH fabrics in a capsule of five characteristically romantic pieces; after an extended hiatus, Costa Brazil returns to the scene with its face and body products sourced sustainably from the Amazon; Church’s x Miu Miu goes for collaboration round two with a pair of distressed linen-and-leather loafers embossed and perforated to perfection; Ciao Lucia introduces its SS24 collection of retro-inspired sunny-weather dresses, most notably a sailor-style mini dress which literally could not be more charming; Gap and Dapper Dan reveal a new, “western-inspired” collection heavy on indigo, khaki, and the iconic DAP logo; Omnilux releases sub-$100 “minis” that stick onto your skin to provide dermatologist-lauded red and blue-light therapy to brighten and calm spots and blemishes; and Act + Acre’s new showerhead filter is now live for $40 cheaper than its Jolie competitor we’ve recently raved about, promising to strengthen and return shine to dull hair.
What’s on sale
We have a countdown—the SSENSE sale ends on February 15th at 11:59 PM, but until then, the discounts are stacked with hundreds of pieces ripe for the purchase, especially in the sub-$200 category: on the easily justifiable end, there are Pleats Please tank tops in basic, unimpeachable black for $162 and Toga Pulla loafers studded with metal knots for $165 (down from $500, ahh); on the more fanciful side is an SSENSE exclusive red version of Di Petsa’s iconic “Wetlook” bralette for an unholy 78% off; an Emily Dawn Long beaded heart belt for $54; and the perfect early-spring Chopova Lowena midi dress in dark, laced-up florals for $198.
Bag brand Kara is closing for good (sad), but before it does, the entire site is up to 60% off (silver lining). Beyond the soft spot the brand has managed to carve out in many of our hearts, one good reason to buy a bag now while you still can is that, despite the countless imitators that came in its wake with dazzling lanyard straps and crystal mesh, Kara’s have remained the most convincing, always defaulting to quality materials and construction—and they were listed at hard-to-believe prices to begin with!
Tory Burch’s latest season is on sale, and the knits selection is especially potent—pieces like a faux cardigan with an attached dickie embellished with floral embroidery and sequins, a merino Fair Isle turtleneck for under $200, and a shrunken red sweater with gold logo buttons all make the case for pre-shopping the next chilly season, while a 70’s-style geometric print knit tote is a reminder that knits transcend temperature in their utility.
Cortana’s winter sale takes up to 50% off virgin wool barrel-leg trousers, tomato-colored silk wrap blouses, linen knitted column dresses, and many more business-casual meets Spanish coastal material-focused pieces in wintry colorways.
Everything in the Posse Valentine's Day sale is well under $200—cream-colored denim overalls, slip-style gowns in dusty olive green, and several matching lounge sets, plus basics like tank tops and t-shirts, are all discounted 50% or more.
Take an extra 20% off Clyde’s winter sale with LOVERS—a boa-style faux-fur scarf comes out to $112, a pastel balaclava made of handspun wool is $102, cerulean lambskin gloves are $134 down from $210, and six more pages are similarly stocked with winter accessories up to 50% off.
RiRa is offering 20% off its whole stock of strategically mottled glassware, perfectly spherical candles, abstract wooden cutting boards, and more off-kilter houseware with LOVEBIRDS in honor of February 14th.
There’s also: Cettire’s FW23 sale takes up to 60% off Paco Rabanne chainmail clutches, collared Prada cardigans, and more pieces in both mens’ and womenswear; Italist’s V-day sale runs the gamut from Chloé to Off-White with a focus on designer accessories; and Sleeper takes 20% off its whole stock of feather and rhinestone-encrusted, bed-to-bar pajamas with EXTRA20.
I may earn some money if you make a purchase through one of the links above.
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Social image via Collen Allen
Building Block is closing too! Well, a "pause". All the good stuff is mostly sold out. building--block.com
Where de we find the opera coats? Thanks!