329: Menswear’s looming red scare
And Robert Bell explains his essentials.
Welcome to Magasin Menswear. In a dedicated monthly send, Louis Cheslaw surfaces choice products worth your consideration, explores larger conversations shoppers are—or should be—having, and taps a smart dresser to share how he wears it.
First up…
Starting with one for the girls: You’ve heard me rave about Camisas Manolo’s shirts—Manuel Molina has now collaborated with Hai on some perfect women’s shirting, which I saw at the launch last night. (Modeled above by Hai founder Tessa Vermuelen.) There’s white, pinstripe, and light pink—with little bags to match. (Fellas, we can stock up on far more shades here.)
I took the train back to Paris after last month’s men’s week, and came home with two purchases: these soft chocolate just-about-bootcut jeans and on the more affordable end, J.W. Anderson’s latest Uniqlo hoodie (in blue). It’s designed to be way oversized, and is, but I bought the small for a close fit.
I’m not calling him up again this time, but after Saager Dilawri kindly talked us through Neighbour’s FW24 first-time pickups last August, I thought I’d check in for a preview of the designers he’ll be stocking for the first time this spring. Those names for your hunting pleasure here: Graphpaper, Cottle, and Amiacalva (all Japanese), Working (which seems to be part of the magical Tender universe) and Spain’s Gabriela Coll Garments—a big inspiration for my June column, and also my next… 👀
Speaking of former column guests, I noticed that #258’s Jeroen van de Gruiter designed the stunning bottle for Jil Sander’s first fragrance, Black Tea. He has no idea I’m sharing this, but look at it!
Sneaker watch: At Yvon Lambert Gallery, I spotted two sneakers side by side that I’ve been seeing more of generally: the always-great Scarpa Mojito and the Adidas Taekwondo. Not to mention Nike’s finally bringing back the T90 next month… just sadly not for playing in.
Lastly, Richie Lee Davis put Bill Gates in a Celine suit, but Bill kept his own belt on. Love that picture by the fax.
Menswear’s looming red scare
I thought I was safe. As someone who’s never worn bright colors, I’d just become used to shopping over time from my preferred roster of muted brands, most of which never even gave me the option to go bold. But last month in Paris, as I stopped in to see FW25 collections, the same thing kept on happening.
Wherever I was—from A. Presse to Studio Nicholson to everywhere in between—amongst the usual navy, blacks, and grays, there’d suddenly be a bolt of red. Colin Meredith has a red zip-up coming (I’m wearing it below), A. Presse’s radish red hoodie (also below) was the most popular image I shared all week, while Sunflower had an entire rack of the shade. Larz from MAN-TLE had chosen to wear an all-red jacket for his showroom appointments. &Daughter had just launched their men’s line with an image of some faded red trousers (and hello, red crewneck.) After the week ended, I’d wondered if I was seeing things, but a couple of days ago L’Etiquette agreed—the color is undeniable. Like it or not—and bizarre as it was that this was also inauguration week—come the fall, red will be bearing down, hard, on even the quieter corners of menswear.
The specific red shade I liked most wasn’t a blazing or a deep one. It was something a touch more faded, but still bright—something between a radish and a cardinal. I’m still reckoning with whether or not I’ll be giving red the green light for my own wardrobe, but that’s a me problem. For those ready to make the jump this season, or to just try it out, I scanned around, and there are plenty of places to start…
The best example out right now, I’d say, is Our Legacy’s “sun faded” mob jacket. It’s a similar feel to the platonic ideal of a zip hoodie coming from A. Presse (above), but more affordable and available now. There’s even better pricing on Everybody.World’s similar shade. (Margaret Howell had a new faded red tee too, but it sadly just sold out.) Speaking of typically muted designers brightening up, even James Coward has one dusty red available. I haven’t tried the brand yet, but the shade’s also available on a baby tee for $45 at California Arts. And of course, a Russell Athletic eBay search always yields something…
How Robert Bell wears it
Rob is a designer at Burberry. He previously worked under Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, which also meant he was heavily involved with the costumes for Challengers (!) and Queer. Whenever I see him, he’s wearing something that makes me a bit happier. Appreciate him telling me a little more.
What’s the oldest piece you still wear?
In terms of sheer age, I have a Class of 1950 letterman cardigan that I wear quite regularly. It’s knitted in rayon and shines wonderfully. But if we’re talking about the piece I’ve had the longest, it’s a Wrangler Roper Western Shirt with a printed horizon of some cowboys in the dust. I wear it most weeks, and I’ve had it for like 15 years.
What’s something you have multiples of?
My Wrangler dress jean pants. They’re pressed in polyester and always look amazing. The fit is so great.
What’s the newest pickup you’re loving?
A Dries van Noten striped poplin shirt that my wife bought me for Christmas.
What’s the most meaningful item in your wardrobe?
My wedding suit: I had a shirt custom made with my initials and a tweed blazer from Cordings in Piccadilly. Also, my sheriff badge; it was my mum’s when she was a 20-something living in Los Angeles.
If we could buy you anything next, what would it be and why?
I’d really like a motorcycle—a 1960s Triumph. That would be great.
What’s one of your essentials outside clothing?
Arm & Hammer Baking Soda toothpaste.
Are there any pieces you’re known for?
A kinda signature Rob outfit would be this old plaid shirt from the 1970s that I call “Old Faithful” because I wear it so much. Also, my denim Morley Cigarettes baseball cap with loads of patches and badges all over that I’ve collected through the years. Then my off-road UGG boots, my police sheriff’s jacket, and some old 1960s Ray-Bans. I think I have a pretty distinguishable silhouette, but I don’t know. These things are always around, and I haven’t really dressed any differently in almost ten years.
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Louis, always one of my favs. Love this.
Same, keep these coming - great stuff Louis. (red is most definitely coming in hot).