318: PMW Days 3 + 4 / Swan song

Plus Porsche buttons, $85,000 chairs, and what Louis wore.

Introducing Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we’ll be covering shoppable observations from scenes of interest daily: Paris Men’s Week, Days 3 + 4.

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Weather report

48ºF / 9º C Manageable, but you’re grabbing the hotel umbrella just in case

Itinerary

Jan 23

10a Gajiroc showroom — it was the exciting young Korean designer’s first ever trip to Europe, though it turns out he apprenticed under Evan Kinori for three years *LC

10a Sezane store visit — met the team an hour before the flagship’s opening for the day and there was already a sizable line forming outside. Down the street at the brand’s men’s shop, Octobre (Nir picked up two pairs of jeans), we found a similar spill out…the affordable French fashion empire at work. *LR

11a A. Presse showroom *LC

11:30a Unlikely showroom *LC

1p Salon C. Lundman showroom *LC

2:30p MAN-TLE showroom *LC

3p Coffee with Felix of Studio Nicholson *LR

3:15p Mfpen showroom *LC

4p Sunflower showroom *LC

6p Studio Nicholson cocktail *LC +LR

7:30p Dinner at Clown Bar *LR

8:30p Lady White Co. x mfpen dinner — with those brand’s founders, plus the buyers from Ven Space, Neighbour, Nitty Gritty, and Today, all of whom have supported both designers for a very long time. A seasonal Paris tradition that always feels like sitting at King Arthur’s Round Table. *LC

10p GQ x Levi’s after party *LR

Jan 24

10a Ormaie showroom *LC

1p Gallery tour — stopped by Galerie Vallois, Maxime Flatry, Jacques Lacoste, Yves Gastou, Patrick Seguin…most specializing in 1930s-1950s French design *LR

2:30p Emily Dawn Long and Olga Basha showroom — straight out the gate, Emily’s making the nicest polo and best-necked (swan-featuring) sweater I’ve seen this year. And guys should know Olga Basha’s beautifully cut jeans are fully for us too. *LC (+ LR)

4p Awaykin showroom — finally getting some handfeel time with Berner Kuhl, &Daughter, WANZE and Bleue Burnham *LC

5p An Irrational Element showroom — sexy, clavicle-showing sweaters are coming, but these shoes are here right now *LC

5:30p Drinks at Septime La Cave *LR

6p Drink with Carter Young’s Carter Altman and Patricia Villirillo — Patricia has long been (beautifully) styling Matty Healy, George Daniel, Jack Antonoff, Margaret Qualley, Beabadobee... More to come when they’re ready, but these two are now cooking up something special together. *LC

7:30p Dinner at Le Petit Celestin *LC + LR

*LR: Laura’s schedule, *LC: Louis’ schedule

Look 1

Carter Young Made-to-Measure Suit, $395+ / Carter Young Hugo Shirt, $276 $395 / R.M.Williams Comfort Turnout Boot, $409 / Kultur5 Berries Bracelet, $320

Look 2

Mfpen Installation Coat Recycled Nylon, $248 $550 / Johnston’s of Elgin Classic Cashmere Round Neck, $575 / Maximum Henry Very Slim Oval Belt, $111 / Nudie Jeans Tuff Tony, $200+ / Dr. Martens 3989 Smooth Brogue Shoes, $150 / Maria Tash Plain Gold Hoop, $94 $135 / Hilditch & Key Scarf, $220

Magasin intel

• 150 breathtaking, self-made fabric treatments at A. Presse, but my money’s on the radish-red, waffle-lined zip hoodie showing up at every stockist lucky enough to be allowed to order it. *LC

• Salon C. Lundman may only be on its second collection, but designer Christoffer Lundmann (formerly in very senior roles at Tekla, Tom Ford, and Acne) let slip—admittedly only when I pressed—that Auralee founder Ryota Iwai bought six pieces from the first collection for himself. Not sure there’s a stronger endorsement than that. *LC

• It’s always a joy to hear MAN-TLE’s fabric stories. Still bouncing around my head this time? The ethically-sourced Hungarian Silver Goose down is broken up by feathers, which naturally act to stop the down from clumping. Oh, and there’s a leather jacket coming with the exact same buttons Porsche used to secure its soft-top convertibles. *LC

• After melting over a museum’s worth of French Art Deco, I finally summed up the nerve to inquire about a pair of Jean Royere “Baquet” armchairs to be—if not surprised—humbled by their $85,000 price tag. ROOMS is weeping. *LR

• The excellent vintage store Preclothed is situated in the furniture gallery district and warranted a stop in on my tour. Learned that the shop is newly working with Mies, an archive run by Noora Vesterinen, to source rare Margiela-era Hermés. *LR

• Bleue Burnham may have made his name with bright jewels, but told me he’s increasingly adding to their ‘Impression’ line for those who just want the metals. Also: Men’s jewelry buyers are leaning into broaches. *LC

• Also on the jewelry front, Zoe Mohm is becoming something of a status partner to aspirational apparel brands, from collaborating with Cristaseya last fall to this week having her ornate silver pieces on display at Rier’s showroom. *LR

• Some gossip! I can’t say who yet, but one Magasin-y brand is soon announcing a new creative director that’ll spell out an entirely new era for many reasons, while another is on track for a multi-million dollar cash infusion from an A-list celeb. Watch this space. *LR

• Everyone–myself included!—thought &Daughter was a cashmere brand. 100% lambswool, baby. *LC

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