260: A pair of Miu Miu slippers walk onto a new arrivals page
Plus Still Here's "Colors," Ancient Greek Sandals' 50% off sale, and Dilara for Heaven by Marc.
Miu Miu’s hotel slippers from the FW24 runways—the prime target of my desires for the season—have officially landed at stores. In August! But you know what, I’ll spare you the false outrage; naturally, fall stuff is already trickling in.
Back in February, I published a series of post mortems following NYFW and PFW, ID’ing the most memorable, wantable, “Future Shoppable” individual pieces seen in the shows and lookbooks. The Miu Miu slides (sandals? mules?) featured centrally, and their self-realization into the retail realm inspired me to go digging for other pieces that may’ve made their way to ecomm.
Also from my Miu Miu wishlist come these colorful suede and satin pouch purses and these amazing, impractical goalie gloves in croc leather. What I didn’t immediately fall in love with from the runway but now adore from the first delivery to the brand’s site is this raw-edged poplin dress in a tea length that’s a little more demure and Prada-esque for the usually leggy youth brand. (Also, no one will care about this except for me, but I predicted the price of the Miu Miu hotel slippers within $30 of what they are listed for.)
Carven’s “crunchy, paper-like brown trench,” as I called it at the time, is among the first of fall’s spoils to arrive—now I have the context that the lovely material is actually a tech wool gabardine: a dream! On top of that, I’ve deeply fallen for this draped crepe-wool column skirt (and will most likely end up buying these cotton-silk twill basketball shorts on my next Paris visit).
I’d already seen this Altuzarra knit from my NYFW recap on MyTheresa and this envelope clutch on the brand’s site, so I knew to look out for other inbound as early as last week. This twisted, jeweled dress arrived, but its companion pillbox hat is still yet to be seen.
Tibi appears to have gone all in, dropping what looks like its entire fall collection at once. The girdle-mesh sheer skirt I highlighted after seeing it in the showroom predictably doesn’t display its full glory on ecomm, but other favorites that I saw at previews plus new ones—knee-high Borg shoes, a very elegant compact stretch tank, a whisper-thin quarter-zip ribbed long-sleeve—leave me smitten!!
For many reasons, Coach doesn’t get much love in this newsletter (rather, there is just one reason and it’s that I don’t think its bags are cool). But they did undeniably nail it with their souvenir-tricked-out Empire Carryall Bag, which is the brand’s $650 answer to The Row’s Margaux, out now. I’d wear it sooner than I would some Bottega bags TBCH.
This gray jersey Dries Van Noten skirt had been available for pre-order on Moda since the show, so no surprise in finding in now, but without a ship-by date listed, I might be more inclined to go for this close, currently available one.
A couple weeks back, I spotted my very favorite Victoria Beckham dress being worn by Daisy Edgar-Jones on her press tour, but no sight of it in shops yet. No worries, the hunt for it led me to these on-sale pretend-backwards pants to dream about. Similarly, I went scouring for new-season Alainpaul and instead found this on-sale skirt masquerading as an undone dress.
Sadly, these Issey Miyake pants I thought I’d be really into actually intimidate the hell out of me now that I see them in full. Too fabric-y, too high-waisted. The color rocks, but the silhouette would just swallow me.
But it’s early days still! The vast majority of the season’s bounty is yet to come. I’m dying to know how much The Row’s red-tipped fur scarf will be (I ventured a likely “POA”). Loewe is withholding its button-down shearling jacket and extra-long belted heels but gave us these waistband-y sandals instead. Marie Adam-Leenaerdt has gone two whole seasons without granting me the swimming pool-print top I so desire, but at least the latest season is even more wearable than the last. Uma Wang is timing the release of its re-imagined tailoring a bit further out (fair) but has given us these Trippen-like double-stacked heels. (Side note: How good is Trippen?) Kallmeyer owes me the perfect chevron zip-up, but for now I’m placated with its ‘90s Prada-esque stretch suiting pants that beg the question, High Sport who?
With News Editor em seely-katz
What’s new
The short version is that the denim brand Still Here launched t-shirts, and they come in eight solid colors and three assorted combo packs. The long version is that, actually, this is just the first in a series of moves the brand has planned on its mission to perfect and encompass the “American uniform.” You can feel it already: a tee and jeans, ghost cigarette between the lips of its androgenous muses (somehow also a vision of utopian health), a breeze passes through the reeds, a toe wrapped in a white cotton sock taps to the rhythm, hanging out the side of a hammock, piece of blueberry pie and a glass of strawberry milk.
The most energizing aspect of fall fashion is its nerdiness, a product of vestigial “back to school” energy and the utility required of a colder-weather outfit. COS’ PF24 collection embraces this in MacGyver-worthy pieces like a trench with a detachable, layered collar and a fully reversible black-and-burgundy leather belt, while providing fashion nerds with plenty of on-the-ball fodder like a pair of perfectly weighted wool-blend trousers for under $200.
Another example of a label shining in autumn due to its nerdy sensibilities, Zankov’s fall collection (now at McMullen) is all about experimenting with the geometry of knitwear, featuring pieces like a deconstructed pullover that absolves sleeves of their arm-covering duties, instead using them as a tie at the hip, and a sweeping turtleneck cardigan striped with code-like cutouts.
You’d think Bottega’s PF24 collection was the nerdiest of all, with its academic-feeling pleated midi skirt in toasty-hued leather and a literal “Student Folder” with that familiar, staticky pattern from notebooks of yore (though hewn in calfskin, of course), but then you’re hit with the rhinestoned plexi heels of the Cha-Cha mule and trippy gradient of leopard print shearling trousers, and you realize that nerdiness and camp are two sides of the same shiny coin.
The Tory Burch FW4 handbag lineup feels like another year’s worth of experimentation. The label is trying to strike “instant classic” gold with its purses, but even if it doesn’t, a focus on pragmatism—elevated flat bottom on a jacquard barrel bag, Neverfull lookalike in richly hued leather, crossbody option for a chain-strap tote—ensures that each new bag will find its devotees.
Only half the pieces by Dilara Findikoglu for Heaven by Marc Jacobs are still in stock, but given the compatibility of the former’s constitutional drama with the latter’s cheeky effervescence in still-in-stock options like a ruffly corset illustrated with a punked-out Marie Antoinette and another corset, this one a maraschino-red bikini, another collaboration in the future seems likely.
The Neous Pherka heels I Jared Leto meme’d myself into owning now come in shorter, mesh-topped form as part of the brand’s latest “Soft Furnishings” AW24 collection. I’d wishlist the new ones if it weren’t so redundant, but not to worry, I’ve fallen for another style from the drop…Ubens, please be mine.
The new Prada at Moda Operandi seems uncharacteristically quiet, even for a brand that often plays around with understatedness—the floral print cardigans, mohair-wool varsity jackets, and pointy-toed T-bar kitten heels are only brought back from the precipice of Christian Girl Autumn by a few (admittedly gorgeous) regal-looking leather jackets.
Apiece Apart’s FW24 collection feels like the brand’s blue period, with Klein cobalt kick flare pants for half the price of the [redacted] pair they closely resemble; a bounty of denim including a pair of jeans with a thick, stiff waistband extending into relaxed, drapey legs (a silhouette that’s been notably absent for the past few years); deftly-cropped padded bomber jackets in dusty, sophisticated teal, and more.
It was a shame to miss meeting Pauluschkaa’s Pauline Deckert when I was passing through Marseille, because, as the brand’s latest demonstrates, its compact edits of handmade pieces are worth paying attention to. A rosette-collared cardigan and varsity-numbered mohair skirt know their place in a wardrobe as both complement and defibrillator to the creep of basics.
Following Gil Rodriguez and Flore Flore, Shaina Mote’s latest collection submits new white button-downs for our consideration, both classic (with a curved hem) and collarless, like a formal cardigan. The rest of the collection is just as surefire for fall: walnut-brown, wide-wale corduroy jackets; crimson ¾ sleeve “ballet tees”; the inevitable (but always exciting) alpaca beret, and more.
The exclusive FW24 pre-launch of Etro x MyTheresa offers up thirteen pieces decked in the former’s iconically opulent paisley prints, with velvet tops on the cooler-weather side of things and drapey, asymmetric dresses that would fare well through the transitional seasons.
Seasonless, small batch brand Geel has launched its latest collection, "Delicacy," showing off the designers’ mastery of the art of the drape: going-out tops feature unexpected scarf necklines that plunge wildly low in the back, modal dresses are draped and knotted like contemporary togas, and more. Though the label rejects the concept of fashion seasons, these are late summer uniforms through and through.
There’s also: The Row releases its Hugo slide in shiny black pony hair for a late-summer slip on that’ll transition well into fall with thick socks; I was just reflecting the other day on how I could use another slim-profile daily bag to rotate on-and-off with my Fane, and then BAM Mansur Gavriel drops the Gaia; Melissa x Y/Project add the Court Clog to their collaborative line-up of fan favorite rococo jelly shoes; Emilia Wickstead’s new offerings play with different shades of blue, from navy to cornflower, across a swath of A-line skirts and knit polo dresses; tons of solid, understated sneakers and bags are for sale in Bally’s PF24 collection; Gap x Madhappy might be getting clowned on TikTok but its stock is surprisingly well-thought-out for a cash-grabby collab; Tkees x LoveShackFancy releases a pair of bow-adorned flip-flops for the cutesiest among us; and how twee is it for there to be hype around a watering can collab…Haws x Gardenheir is back.
What’s on sale
Ancient Greek Sandals just launched its 50% off sale, and no the jellies aren’t included. That’s honestly fine. Many of the brand’s other silhouettes are what draw me in anyway, and they’re additionally a bit better immunized to the trend-wreck the overarching style is headed for. There are these MNZ-ish wedges for $187, platform thongs that live halfway between Rainbow and The Row for $140, and some flip-flops and fisherman sandals from a Lucy Williams collab that ring somewhat Hermès-y for under $175 apiece.
Rohe’s summer sale is doing justice especially to the label’s conscientiousness around fine materials—pleated wide-leg chinos in 100% water-repellent cotton twill are down to under $200 from $390, a navy wrap trench in the same material is $400 off, we noted the glut of white button-downs above and this poplin shirt with a back slit will cost you less than all of the aforementioned, and that’s only a drop in the Rohe sale bucket.
Kallmeyer’s archive sale reads like a new-in page, unlike other markdown edits that tell you in complete sentences why no one was paying pull price. Smartly cut soft tailoring and heady, feminine knits reflect the best of the brand, offered at prices over half off. If this last pair of jeans is still around by EOD I’m buying them.
The Bevza sale is back, and it clings to the honorific of reliably deepest single-brand sale out there. For my part, I finally got the Youth Cropped Jacket with origami-esque bust construction that I’ve had feelings for/about since the show a year back, and I also allowed myself a window-cutout tank since it was under $100 even at full price.
Not to fear monger, but this truly is one of the last weeks for sales on FW-appropriate clothing worth writing home about, and Kassl’s seasonal sale is among them, taking up to 40% off outerwear like rustic plaid overcoats ($624 from over $1k), rubber trench coats (about the same price), plus water-resistant, oil-coated cotton in the form of pleated skirts and puffer bags you’ll praise the lord for come the first sleet-filled day.
It’s been quiet on the label’s front for a while (especially while the weather’s been warm), but what better way to reacclimate than James Street’s 50% off sitewide sale, extending also to its full archive—think funnel-neck fisherman sweaters for $120 and knit tanks under $30. Even the sale section is on sale, with FW-ready merino-cotton blend skirt-leggings for under $130 and more.
The Great Eros online sample sale has great underwear, yes—about $100 for both a forest brown mesh bra plus matching French cut underwear—but it also has a surprisingly good smattering of clothing, like a wrappy, Di Petsa-esque tank top for $100 even and 100% silk chiffon boxers for $80.
There’s also: Toteme’s sale is wrapping up, should I buy this twill overshirt?; Banana Republic is running a 30% off everything promo that includes new arrivals (how bout this cute poplin dress for $36); while shopping for a couple of gray tanks to match a vintage skirt I just bought, I saw that Intimisimi is down to 60% off, plus get seven panties for $35 and bras for $19 each when you buy two or more; it’s up to 60% off sophisticated but rugged rain jackets, ponchos, and other wet-weather gear in Aether’s end-of-season sale; and Haight offers 40% off a ton of end-of-summer bathing suits plus casual cover-ups in matching hues.
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Ooof. The Miu and Carven arrivals. Yes please.
I bought those Miu hotel slippers and you make me feel all zeitgeist-y. XOXOXO.