207: What I'd buy from the Paris runways if I had a spare $40,835
Fantasy shopping the FW24 collections.
Welcome to Future Shopper, a special-edition send rounding up the best runway pieces to budget for next season (with see-now-buy-now insights throughout). Today, with PFW in the rear view mirror, we’re looking back at the things we’re most likely to be purchasing come Fall ‘24. See last season’s Future Shoppers here.
Instead of the brand-by-brand breakdown of what I predict will be the most purchased pieces from the fall collections as I’ve done previously, I played a game with myself of narrowing down everything I saw and screenshotted into an item-specific fantasy shopping list. I tried to limit myself to 10, but would up at a close 13 selects, and couldn’t stop myself from also mentioning all of the other things that came so, so close to breaking the top list.
Buying all of my featured picks would cost me an estimated $40,835 (it’s a fantasy league!), and while I won’t be actually stressing out my credit cards to that extent, this exercise is helping me strategize well in advance as to how I’ll be spending my money when deliveries start rolling in in September.
The Miu Miu slippers are a must, especially since footwear from the last few collections has been approachable, and whenever Louise Trotter deigns to let me buy her Carven collections, I’ll happily part with the sub-$2,750 she’s said is the upper limit for price tags.
Will I get a Birkin? Or that The Row pelt? Hmmm, doubtful. But a girl can dream.
Miu Miu hotel slippers
Lotta Volkova sent some models down the runway in slippers several sizes too big large, true to the experience of wearing actual, one-size-fits-all waffle-knit or terry hotel slippers that you shuffle into for a quick run to the ice machine down the hall. I think (in the correct size), these would get an insane amount of wear through the end of summer, and a healthy extension into fall with some cute long socks.
Estimated cost: $1,050. Somewhere in between the corded sandals and the penny loafer pumps.
Also tempting: The leather keeper gloves in reptilian relief; the Miu Miu Archive 2006 bags—if the presence of that labeled luggage tag ignited your interest in the season, there’s a vintage one in brown for $104 and another in patchwork leather for $273; the suede jackets were mouthwatering (cousins to my Prada blazer); and satin pouches that are ladylike yet of my favored “burro bag” ilk.
Styling I’m stealing: On top of everything that’s been said about the messy pearls and collars, the scarf placement (one end tucked into your button-down blouse/dress) was a good idea.
The Row fur scarf
Shown as belt—also file this under styling I’m stealing.
Estimated cost: POA. In store only. Probably $10,000+ judging by the pelt and likely hand-done dying of the yarn tips.
Also tempting: Since “everything” is not a fair answer, the toe-moulding leather pumps and suede flats that leave a clear outline of your lower digits, like a pair of well-worn Martinianos (size half down); and the raw silk A-line trench, which, without the support of the crinoline below would fall in heavy bundles of pleats and create movement that’s just insane to watch.
Styling I’m stealing: Low denier tights with between-the-toe sandals under pants; Wolford-like nude tanks as tops with fancy bottoms; and rather than necessarily buying one of the art deco or bell hats, Studio Mantel collects great 1930s silver brooches that would look great affixed to a beanie.
Alain Paul tailoring scarf
It has coat pockets and sleeve buttons! I am so delighted by this.
Estimated cost: $400
Also tempting: Lots of other elegant things done in suiting fabrics; a gathered-neck blouse with tie.
Hermes mini Birkin
It may not be entirely original to want an Hermes bag, but desire does not discriminate.
Estimated cost: $12,000 if you’re lucky, with all the usual obstacles and caveats around buying Hermes bags.
Also tempting: Sheer ribbed knit tops, some of which had leather paneling; fur apron top tank; and the fabric panel waist tie/belt with chevron studding (reminded me of a more delicate version of this Tory Burch belt).
Styling I’m stealing: In love with the use of burgundy, going to run with that for a bit.
Carven crunchy, paper-like brown trench
Estimated cost: $1,500. Louise Trotter has said she wants the collections to be priced fairly, from $550 for shoes to $2,750 for a coat—I’m putting this lighter-weight one in the middle range of that.
Also tempting: Just about the whole collection…a sculpted bodice dress/top (with sheer skirt of course); a rounded-shoulder tropical wool coat; satin/leather sock boots; an origami-pleated wool bustier top; a wool column skirt; a sculpted-shoulder wool raglan top…
Styling I’m stealing: More shirt collars getting tangled up in coats; more messy pearls; white and pastel clutches against neutrals; bring back the backwards shirt, and go ahead and backward the coat, too.
Victoria Beckham sheer paneled dress
The fancy party pick of this list.
Estimated cost: $1,150. Seems like the going rate for the brand’s gowns.
Also tempting: A gathered sand-colored gown; and not VB, but an “event-y” Roisin Pierce dress for my upcoming continued nuptial celebrations.
Issey Miyake pants in deep purple
The perfect BBSP “yurple” and the perfect layering piece.
Estimated cost: $860.
Also tempting: That whole ‘80s watercolor print look, including the socks; over-face hats (The Row’s Indo hat comes to mind); and pleats forever.
Styling I’m stealing: Gloves as epaulettes…too fantastical or exactly the whimsy we need?; headwraps under brimmed hats; and knits tucked into winter sarongs.
Loewe belted heels & shirt-buttoned shearling jacket
It’s a tie! I tried to feature just one piece per brand, but this was too close a call—in terms of price alone, I’m more likely to buy the heels, but the shearling is of heavy-duty investment caliber.
Estimated cost: $1,200 for the heels, about average for the brand’s footwear, and $7,750 for the coat (probably more), on the upper end for its outerwear.
Also tempting: White-to-fur-print/ostrich-leather silk jumpsuit (as a dress, which I’m sure it’ll be produced as); sculpted metal fur-collared coats; vegetable garden-print silk shirt; and that cloud-like cashmere knit.
Styling I’m stealing: Offset belts whose buckles line up with a French-tucked shirt; undone belts; and belts with formalwear. Belts!
Uma Wang backward suit jacket top (the whole suit, actually)
Estimated cost: $1,400 for just the blazer or $2,240 for the suit is in line with current-season menswear.
Also tempting: The long black coat with an “interior” pocket on the outside; those cocoon capes with secret arm holes through the front pockets; everything in that antique upholstery fabric
Styling I’m stealing: Coats + babouche slippers (+ scarves + brooches).
Rick Owens onesie
A perfectly fitted ribbed-knit jumpsuit is seeming like a very smart investment to make at the beginning of the season, when your inner clothes matter much less than your outer ones, and all you need is a solid foundation for the coming months.
Estimated cost: $1,000. Less pricey than the $3,280 devil-shouldered gown, but maybe a touch more than the $590 jersey dress.
Also tempting: The bodysuit version of the above; a hooded cocoon cape in a tempting felted brown; contrast-knit Porterville capes; a twisted pastel shearling cape.
Dries Van Noten gray jersey skirt
Actual cost: $495, there’s a trunkshow of the collection currently up on Moda Operandi, so we know exactly how much it’ll be
Also tempting: The same skirt in pink and checkered; purple satin pressed pants; lovely green sweatpants; a shaggy green clutch that I like the idea of more than anything; and I think I am coming very close to finally getting a resin-handle Dries bag.
Styling I’m stealing: Pastel and pond color combos.
Niccolo Pasqualetti peasant blouse
Estimated cost: $700
Also tempting: Scarf-wrap blazers; frayed-edge skirt-pants; and short-sleeve coats.
Styling I’m stealing: Cuffs over coat sleeves; wooden bead jewelry; and more fun with dickies.
Marie Adam Leenaerdt swimming pool top
I fell in love with her use of the print in the last collection she showed (as a top and a dress), and I can see so much potential for it as a layering device.
Estimated cost: $490, about the same as this print turtleneck.
Also tempting: The double-label coat, the shoulder-tied “egg” coat, and what I’d call an opera trench; XL east-west leather bags; and precious bow-tied leather slippers.
Styling I’m stealing: Fabric-covered button earrings; and the blazer + trench + little silk shorts formula.
Bonus picks
A few more because I simply can’t edit myself…
Louis Vuitton satin bomber; Chanel front-slit boucle cape (I will never afford either of these, I’m sure); Duran Lantink hip blazer; McQueen diaper pin…if sold separately; Nanushka leather/shearling scarf; and a Tove checkerboard coat.
I may earn some money if you make a purchase through one of the links above.
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I love your roundup and getting a little of your thinking. Plus maybe that Alain Paul tailoring scarf could be my Miami "coat" (in which case the price is really solid!)
It's not a mini Birkin! It's a revamp of the Gaultier shoulder Birkin from the early aughts!