392: NYFW Days 8 + 9 / Grand finale superset!
Calvin Klein hard launch, The Row bag succession plan, Future Shopper returns.
Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: New York Fashion Week, Days 8 + 9.
Weather report
75ºF / 24º C — buzz phrase of the final stretch: “fashion flu.” (In more extreme cases: “strep.”) A word to the wise, chewable zinc can shorten a cold by 30%.
Itinerary
Sept 15
11a TWP show
1:30p Colleen Allen press preview — amazing how Colleen’s sexy, cool, distinct can feel so casual and natural. It feels like a fact of fashion week now, the thing we all look forward to, know what to expect from in a way, and yet are always surprised and excited by.
2p Coach show
4p Diotima show — Rachel Scott’s first-ever runway, and in the same season as her first collection for Proenza Schouler. Busy gal, and both were standouts of the week.
6p Tory Burch show — the texture was my favorite element of the collection, for which I have my friend Daniel Levi, embellishment designer, to thank. Beaded knits, embroidered overlays, crushed brocades, those stitched belts!
7:30p Uniqlo LifeWear press preview and panel at MoMA — Cate Blanchett (newly appointed brand ambassador), Clare Waight Keller, and Roger Federer were among the speakers.
Sept 16
10a David Mallett Studio blowout — to introduce the new salt scrub, launching soon
12p Kallmeyer show — family reunion of the week.
1p Don’t Let Disco presentation at Caffe Zaffri
2p 6397 press preview
3p LII Studio show
6p Old Stone Trade kilt showcase and whiskey tasting — not something you see on every fashion week lineup.
7p Prada cocktail — the second Prada event in two weeks, this one celebrating the brand’s iconic Galleria bag, and 10 days ago, a Prada Beauty party at Fotografiska (shades of Anna Delvey, love it).
some skips in italics
Outfit rundown
Vintage Helmut Lang Shirt from Lara Koleji (simlar on resale, $295) / Shereen Mohammad Silk Pants (part of Ishq set), inquire / The Row Marlo 12 Bag, $4,900 / Aeyde Daphne Sandals, $495 / Jacques Marie Mages Vendome Sunglasses, $870
Kallmeyer Georgina Beaded Cap, $795 / The Row Eugene Trench, $3,750 / Savette Symmetry Shoulder Bag, $2,090 / Jutta Neumann Sandals, Custom, $300+
Shopping gossip
As I called out in my last dispatch, Calvin Klein Collection has landed on MyTheresa, before even landing on its own site. There are 53 products either currently available or “coming soon,” priced between $195 (for a bra top) to $4,800 (for a gown). The CK One fragrance bottle-inspired clutches—in brass and plated silver—are $,1800. An insane currant-colored leather top-handle box bag that’s precisely my kind of shape, i.e. tuckable under the arm for a close fit, is $3,000. An Auralee-esque rumpled leather bomber, but more American in an Indiana Jones way, is $3,200. Those slingback flats everyone liked straight away are $810. This shoulder-padded blazer, the representative silhouette of the brand’s comeback, is $2,400 and already almost sold out. I myself am in the position of having a MyT credit burning a hole in my pocket, and a CKC purchase feels like the right application for it….I admit…I am leaning toward…the silver CK One clutch!
Was gossiping in the Substack aisle at Tory Burch about ghost designers (when a large commercial brand brings in a big gun to design, but keeps their name quiet), and took away a few interesting rumors: that Phoebe Philo, post-Chloé, was designing for Gap. That Clare Waight Keller, now global CD at Uniqlo, was ghosting for Johnstons of Elgin. That Margaret Howell is or was ghost designing for Muji’s Labo line (there’s some indications of this as early as 2013). And is Marco Zanini, previously at Schiaparelli, now designing for Loro Piana?
A woman at David Mallett had the same The Row bag that Ashley was carrying at the W party earlier this week (it was the Agnes), which had me wondering where things stand with Row bags post-Margaux. I obviously cast my vote for the Marlo 12, and saw a fair handful of Marlos of various sizes throughout the week (as well as Margauxs of every dimension, to be fair). I spotted Devons and Parks, and ‘90s bags were a virtual fact of life, predictable on every numbered bench spot and on every name-placarded dinner seat. I think I’ll start a proper tally in Paris and build out a more formal Row bag hierarchy.
Now that the week’s done, some shout outs the the heroes that made it all possible: the unsexy professional-grade steamer I finally upgraded to after years with a shitty travel one (a single tank lasts me weeks); a Jennifer Behr leather hair tie that made throwing my hair back in a bun slightly more polished; and the creamy-application m.ph makeup palette that finally taught me how to contour and highlight through the on-page video, which I followed without any creative liberties.
And the top-clicked, top-ordered links of the week’s coverage? J.Crew’s brushed cotton chore coat (one in every 100 people who clicked in made an order), the Joe’s Jeans rugby shirt I wore on day two, and the men’s Sabah sandals featured on the Eckhaus Latta runway. All under $300.
Instead of our usual comprehensive shopping map spelled out in a Future Shopper send, I’m closing out NYFW with a mini edition of only the most crucial things from the runways and previews we’re (I’m) most likely to be purchasing in Spring ‘26.
Aubero is the show I’m most regretful for not putting on my schedule—now there’s a blue ensemble I need to see about. Rachel Scott’s Diotima + Proenza both made the cut. Went into Colleen Allen with a pre-order mindset that I think is going to have to include a long, lacy peach slip; more immediately, I’m getting the cotton drawstring pants Rachel Waniec was wearing there. The Kallmeyer dress I’ve been stalking, but in what looks like linen, which I’d wear way more. The top Kate Walz wore to her own presentation-slash-party (she’s one to watch). Tory’s sheer spotty dress and stitched belt.
SEVERAL pieces from Fforme—either the belted skirt or the belted dress and the gold foil dress and probably one of those lace Fortuny pleat sets, too. And maybe the romper!! A Calvin Klein bra (like, a real bra, they look supportive). Grey’s Studio knit tuxedo shirt. Mel Usine oxblood blouse. The Herbert Levine buckled thong heels Trevor told me “everyone” was stocking for the season. The Eckhaus gown! Just give me an excuse to wear it!
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I loved the segue about the ghost designers - I've literally never thought about that before, but it makes a suspicious amount of sense! Time to go do some lowkey stalking of old IG posts...
Haha damn~ u beat me to the cobalt blue HL! The downside of LA PT 😵💫