450: NYFW Day 2 / JFK Jr. moodboard era
20th century dressing, belt lust, libido radar.
Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: New York Fashion Week, Day 2.
Weather report
34ºF / 1º C
Itinerary
Feb 11
9a Target Spring Beauty Studio — I stopped by the recently redesigned Target Soho, where an expansive Beauty Studio is mercifully popping up the week I need it most. Pre-show day, I touched up my hair with Saltair products (sleeked back with this hair oil) and refreshed my skin with Prequel (a dewy antimicrobial spray) and Supergoop (moisturizing sunscreen), all brands I use every single day at home. These are among the 60 new brands and nearly 3,000 new beauty products added to Target’s offering this season—also including: La Roche‑Posay, Remedy, Vacation Sunscreen, The Crème Shop. (The mini travel product section nearly took me out…so cute, so useful.) I’m happy that I also got to catch a chat with designer Kahlana Barfield Brown, who I overlapped with during my time at InStyle; she designs KBB by Kahlana exclusively for Target (she wore these incredible fold-over trousers from her collection) and unveiled a Curated By edit to coincide with the day’s beauty takeover. I missed the aura readings they were offering, but I think at this point my aura is simply pampered.
10a Ossou presentation — usually denim, but this time a little extra…camel hair, a brushed denim that reads like suede, fantastic long belts yet to be released though hopefully coming soon.
11a 6397 preview — the full line sheet is sub-$1k with the exception of a full length wool coat. Among the favorites: triple-process printed velvet trousers with some great contrast stitching and the return of the washed burnout tee. - Maya Kotomori
12p Proenza Schouler show — Rachel Scott’s official first for the brand as Creative DIrector, though she was consulting on the last (the current new-in).
1p Coffee with Vogue’s Libby Page
7p Tory Burch show — 20th century dresses of all decades, great straw bags cleverly for fall, the belts almost stole the show, as they did last season! How often can can a belt do that?
7:30p Car interview with Jalil Johnson
8p Public School show — back after a seven year hiatus (and they chose Substack as their platform for breaking back in). Like I said on IG, I kind of missed this guy: streetwear-leather-tailoring…feels like a simpler time and not unwelcome back.
Outfit rundown
AM
Proenza Schouler Kinsley Jacket in Boucle Twill Suiting, $1,690 / Proenza Schouler Bodhi Skirt in Boucle Twill Suiting, $1,090 / Proenza Schouler Uma Thigh Boots, $795 $1,590 / Métier Private Eye Leather Tote, $5,250
PM
Toteme Soft suede Overshirt Poppy, $2,400 / Our Legacy Black Hip Trousers, $319 $490 / Uniqlo HEATTECH Cashmere Blend Turtleneck, $29 / Martiniano After Party Black Heels, $580 / The Row Dahlia Bag, $1,990 / Vintage Leopard-Print Rabbit Fur Hat (similar, $225)
Shopping gossip
I know we’ve been talking about hats being back for seasons now, but I’m seeing that they’re now just as back for men, too. I ran into José Criales-Unzueta at Proenza, wearing a seamed leather Ruslan Baginskiy cap, at Tory, Jalil had on a Gigi Burris felted cap, and at the Public School show, a dozen models walked wearing similar felted caps. In recent memory, we saw this style first at The Row, which debuted its Xhefri in SS24 (I bought it). Khaite released its Vito in FW25. It’s no coincidence that the backwards drivers cap was a JFK Jr. favorite, and Ryan Murphy’s “Love Story” is set to debut this week. CBK moodboard culture has finally tipped over into menswear.
Ossou rounded its FW26 styling with layered tees from Flore Flore and heels from Prada. For everything you don’t (yet) make, take from the best!
You can’t really tell but those Proenza boots I wore go all the way up to my mid-thigh and cinch off with a scunchy top that holds up the delicate papery leather. So strange and cool! Sometimes I think I barely know what Proenza is about, it’s so full of surprises.
Libido radar: Tory was sexy, in that unexpected, unclingy, louche way American sportswear does the genre best. Proenza was sexy in the way that women over 40 are having better sex than probably anyone. 6397 was sexy in that is seems to exist offline. But these are the the usual NYFW sexinesses. Still time left for a brand to meet the moment!
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Lonnnnng time lurker. That Proenza outfit is the greatest you've ever looked. Amazing!
Anytime I see or read something about Ossou they keep getting better.