449: NYFW Day 1 / Curiously horny

GWYN (goop) cigarettes, skirt chaps, an Olsen beauty brand that could have been.

Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: New York Fashion Week, Days 1.

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Weather report

31ºF / 0º C — they were calling it “walk weather” after this weekend’s storm; trash snow in early melt.

Itinerary

Feb 9

11:30a Mel Usine — Stephen Biga’s second collection serves naked-dressing via luxurious hand-milled Italian laces. - Maya Kotomori

12:30p GWYN — Gwyneth Paltrow’s reworked G.Label under a new name. The latest contains Parisian-LA multitudes and a knit made to serve as a “denim sweater.” - Maya Kotomori

Feb 10

9a Arma x Leandra Medine Cohen breakfast — family-owned leather and shearling company being revitalized by the new generation for the new generation; low price point for what they offer because they own their production in Turkey.

11a In House preview — a third collection from Rheanna Henney, whose made-to-order business model is painstakingly devoted to sourcing fabrics as sustainable as they are tactilely dopamine-releasing. No one is doing it like her right now!

11:30a &Daughter preview

12p Facial with Karine Kazarian — a legendary former Condé Nast-editor haunt and Biologique Recherche spa; maybbbeee one of the best facials I’ve had as far as glow goes.

5p Madewell x Substack panel at Gem Home

6p Charli XCX’s “Wuthering Heights” Listening Party & Advance Screening

8p YSL Beauty party

some skips

Outfit rundown

AM look

Nour Hammour Elsa Merinos Ladylike Shearling Coat, $2,120 / Apiece Apart Rene Pull On Pant, $495 / The Row Marlo 12 Bag, $3,400 / Chanel Patent Leather Flats (on resale, $3,361, similar from Ezra Flats, $345) / Comme Si The Cashmere Glove, Short, $150

PM look

Lemaire Brown Soft Leather Jacket, $2,096 $2,620 / Celine Striped Long Sleeve Button-Up Top (on resale, $103) / Polo Ralph Lauren Knit Silk Tie, $95 / Cristaseya Double Pleated Wide Pants, $1,017 / Savette Small Florence Hobo, $1,490 / Gucci Vittoria Python Pump, $1,600 / Maximum Henry Wide Standard Belt, $160

Shopping gossip

• February is shaping up to be curiously horny. Wuthering Heights, which I previewed last night, is basically Heated Rivalry for straights, through Yorgos-Coppola-tinted glasses (it’s actually from Saltburn director Emerald Fennell). Tyler McCall, who I ran into at the screening, just sold a romance novel to Little Brown, and Peyton Dix, who I also spoke to there, MC’ed a party last week for 831’s latest in a string of successful romance novels. When I look to see where this energy is showing up in fashion, what else could you hope for than sheer chiffon and a leather chaps skirt from Mel Usine? I’ll be sizing up libidos at the shows this week.

• Karine Kazarian told me, as she was working expert alchemy on my face, that her former clients the Olsen twins were such big fans they had once tried to buy Biologique Rechereche before they started The Row. I can’t corroborate, but it was family-owned at the time, but only a year after The Row launched at Barney’s did the company change hands, so the timeline is plausible. More recent changes within the company have made the once-salon-exclusive products available online at places like Bergdorfs and Violet Grey, including the cultish (and Olson-lauded) Lotion P50.

• GWYN, as in Paltrow of woo-woo mecca goop fame’s brand, served cigarettes for breakfast at its preview this week, h/t Maya Kotomori. If that’s not a tell of a wellness space flipped on its head, IDK what else is. High Touch is coming this spring, and apparently so is hedonism!

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