443: PMW Days 3 + 4 / Softer, slimmer, and more sensitive
Plus where to get life-changing suits made in Paris.
Welcome to Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: Paris Men’s Week, Days 3+4.
Weather report
48ºF / 9º C — True neutral.
Itinerary
Thursday, January 22nd
10.30a Petrosolaum appt
11a Our Legacy appt — the buying tables were as busy as a Wall Street trading floor, as the brand works through its 350 store appointments this week.
12p Lady White appt — a slimmer-profile Paraboot collaboration is coming, and the guys are also into Marcos Hjorn.
1p HAVEN appt
2p Kartik Research show — with more patent shoes for the styling.
4p Olga Basha appt — corduroy!
5p Meeting with Nanamica founder Eiichiro Homma — an industry legend, in Sanders loafers.
6p Howlin’ drinks
7p Margaret Howell preview
Friday, January 23rd
10.30a MAN/WOMAN trade show — Alden, Batoner, Cale, and finally seeing Cash&Barba, whose designer has this wild YouTube channel.
12p ROA showroom
1p Salon C. Lundman appt — space fragranced by Perfumer H Wood Land incense.
2p Gabriela Coll Garments appt
3p Carter Young appt — where I saw this fun, silky cummerbund — above.
4p Awaykin showroom — for Wanze and Paracia, amongst others.
8p Dinner at Localino with Taylor Caruso and Saager Dilawri
10p Colbo party, catching up with Kartik Kumra and Jarod Taber
Shopping gossip
Post-LVMH investment, Our Legacy is back showing in Paris after years in Milan. This season’s darker collection is inspired by life’s sorrowful days—the ones spent processing a friend break-up or dressing for a funeral—and features a collect-your-tears locket necklace, as well as the brand’s first slimmer-fitting shirt in years.
Speaking of OL, co-founder Jockum Hallin happened to be taking a stroll around ROA at the same time as me: He was wearing a Mountain Hardwear puffer that’s very similar to this one.
Salon C. Lundman, now on its third collection, has been a favorite appointment ever since I visited for their debut season. It’s just the sensitive and flattering grown-up wardrobe you dream of having in your closet, and always offers a palate cleanser during a week where you might see more things you don’t love than those you do.
Designer Christoffer Lundman was wearing Church’s Shannon derby—a decision he took some time to make because of the price, but he says he has no regrets. And Le Figaro’s Matthieu Morge Zucconi, who happened to stop in with The New York Times’ Jacob Gallagher while I was there, told me he wears the Shannon too, but on the commando sole for a bit more comfort.
I asked an insider for tips on where to get amazing suits made in Paris, should one be in town for a longer trip and in desire of paying for quality more than marketing hype. He recommended Brahim Bouloujour, Kenjiro Suzuki, Marc di Fiore, and Camps de Luca—and Maison Courtot for bespoke shirts.
New York watch: GQ’s Sam Hine has been in his trusty vintage Schott Perfecto (a rarer, beltless design) whenever I’ve seen him, while Ven.Space’s Axel Keppler is in the elusive Paul Harnden. Highsnobiety’s Noah Johnson and Sebastian Jean are rocking Thurston beanies.
Gabriela Coll has made a swaddling floor-length hooded suri alpaca coat (above), and I am coveting the upcoming waist-length version, which I insisted on wearing for most of my hang with her.
After I posted that I wear the Falke Walkie Light Socks a lot, a surprising number of PFW attendees replied saying they were in them today too.
Whether at Colin Meredith, HAVEN, or Nanamica, many labels that might previously have been more associated with the gorp look are packing that same great technology—PrimaLoft insulation, Gore-Tex membranes—under a more tailored outer fabric, like wool or a soft gabardine.
More technical revelations: ROA has pivoted to Sympatex for its waterproof footwear, rather than Gore-Tex, for sustainability reasons. (They did all their own tests to compare the two, and were satisfied with the results.)
At Howlin’, New Balance’s Matt Petruccione was in the same zip hoodie I’ve been wearing at home for the last couple of months (and was wishing I’d brought with me): The Cease Standard Zip. In a few days, I’ll be on my couch wearing it again, and my feet won’t be yelling at me. Onwards!
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Hi Louis, I hope you're well! I would like to know your take on vintage Marithé François Girbaud. Have you heard of them?