400: “Literally one big strap of leather that's been turned into a jacket”—and other leather season treasures
And how Simon Merz wears it.
Welcome to Magasin Menswear. In a dedicated bimonthly send, Louis Cheslaw surfaces choice products worth your consideration, explores larger conversations shoppers are—or should be—having, and taps a smart dresser to share how he wears it.
First up…
I’ve made my stand-out purchase this fall: Camisas Manolo’s Knitted Jacket (above)—with handwarmer pockets—only went into production because so many of us begged for the sample he was wearing in January. Now it’s here, and so toasty. (The blanket you’re seeing it on was sent to me by Røros Tweed, and it hasn’t left my bed since temps went below 55°F in London.) Otherwise, my Junior’s Shetland, new and thrifted Johnstons of Elgin cashmere crews, and Margaret Howell lambswool mockneck are all going strong, multiple years in.
The Wall Street Journal picked up our recent Paris coverage in print!
Mfpen is preparing to release a bomber with Schott next month, a spin on the CWU ‘90s bomber. Enjoy some dancers from the Royal Danish Ballet spinning around in it.
Pierce Brosnan—apparently a fan first—is the new face of Anglo-Italian. (The brand is rightly keeping our former HHWI subject Jeroen, in its campaigns too.)
As teased in my last send, E.M.Reitz is launching its men’s RIVER shirt on the 15th, in three fabrics, including a light chambray (below). You’ll be able to try them on first at 180 the Store, if in New York.
Everyone had fun trying to ID the clothes in that picture of Harry Styles and Zoë Kravitz. Cool to learn that Harry was actually wearing some vintage Levi’s from Sorbara’s.
Now loading: leather season
After sunglasses and bags—and following two more heady columns—it felt like time for another categorical survey. And this late summer, I was thinking about leather. Specifically: Leather jackets. It’s a style I’ve always felt shy to wear, but also one that as I’ve grown older—and noticed a ton of softer, longer, more relaxed versions popping up—I’ve been increasingly attracted to. The more leather jackets I see, whether on the street or in classic rock documentaries, the better I understand how beautiful, durable, and warm they are. “Not wearing a leather jacket is like not wearing black and brown together,” writer (and former HHWI subject) Nico Lazaro told me. “You only follow it because someone told you it once, or you saw bad examples of it.”
My first option, of course, was to go to a vintage seller and start hunting. But I’m fortunate to be able to call on some of the most thoughtful dressers I know, so I instead started more than 20 conversations over the past couple weeks with one question: Do you already wear a leather jacket? Let’s start with who said yes.
Keith Henry admits that it’s a tough style to get started with: “It’s challenging to get into the headspace initially, because the first time you ever put it on, it’s a statement.” But he says pushing through is worth it: He frequently wears his A-2-style jacket from Klaxon Howl, but could see himself upgrading to a Buzz Rickson someday. (He also put me on to PREBLIC, led by a former Lewis Leathers employee—check this one out.) Writer Jabari Sandifer’s favorite leather jacket is also the easy-wearing A-2 style—his is vintage L.L.Bean, and he wears it right through Chicago winters, often with just a thermal underneath. (Though Banana Republic recently sent him their “really heavy” new car coat, and he’s into it.)
Carter Young’s Carter Altman found his early-2000s Gap leather jacket on Vinted, for just $15. He says that there’s “utility in buying a new leather jacket if it’s high-quality and you’re going to have it forever—because you’re going to be the one to break it in. But there’s also utility in buying one that’s worn-in because that’s what you want it to look like.” Keisuke Asano also wears a vintage one, from Coach, shown below. And Mfpen’s Hugo Edwards, recently snagged himself a vintage Café Racer-style leather jacket.
But sticking to what’s available online for now: Lady White Co.’s Taylor Caruso admits that L.A. is too warm for him to spend money on a leather jacket, but says that if he still lived in Chicago, he’d be in MAN-TLE’s new Down Blouson every day. Mr. Porter’s new fashion editor, Kit Swann, got his from South Korea’s Dunst—“An Insta-type brand, but the only minimal, slightly cropped leather jacket I could find.” Nitty Gritty’s Hampus von Hausswolff already has an agnès b., Dickies-style zip jacket, but said he’s been considering a new leather jacket for years—it’s just the cost that’s held him back. But his head is turned every season by the ones Comoli, Auralee, and A.Presse keep putting out, so it might only be a matter of time.
In fact, those three brands’ jackets came up a few more times. (I think patient zero for my hunt was seeing Saager Dilawri’s long Comoli one.) Renato Balladares recently went to A.Presse’s pop-up at Ven. Space, and fell hard for its new, flannel-lined leather jacket (below). “But,” he says, “it’s 5K.” He’s more likely to purchase another Studio Nicholson one in black, to go with the brown one he already has. (His tip for keeping a leather jacket pristine? “Leather couch conditioner.”)
At much less than A.Presse prices, Lazaro—an ex-Buck Mason employee, but maybe that means even more—says one thing to buy from there are their leather goods. “They’ve done a lot of work developing leather in India that’s got a balance of soft and supple, but rugged enough that you don’t have to be precious.” He loves his own shearling-lined jacket from there, but is also looking for a leather blazer now, inspired by Anthony Bourdain’s Scotland look on A Cook’s Tour.
Speaking of shearling and blazer-style leather… Throwing Fits’ Lawrence Schlossman has amassed a ton of leather jackets over the years, but says his warmest is a shearling-lined one from Gant’s 240 Mulberry line. (Note: Dan Climan’s go-to jacket is vintage Gant, also.) But beyond that, Schlossman recommends Second/Layer and John Elliott, and starting with a shorter, blouson style or classic car coat shape (like his prized vintage Emporio Armani leather barn coat.) And no one needs to own as many as he does: “This is actually one of the rare times that I’m being sincere when I say, ‘You only need one.’ If there was ever a time to really stretch your own dollar, this is it, because it will be with you for many years down the line, and hopefully only age beautifully.”
Are you still with me? The writer Chris Maradiaga says Gabriela Coll’s version is all he wants. “It’s phenomenal—literally one big strap of leather that’s been turned into a jacket. It’s sophisticated, punk, and edgy.” Meanwhile, Oliver Warner from Conkers—who, beyond his own Wiltshire Car Coat loves Auralee’s current bomber-style jacket—was the only person to shout out two whole leather factories. Norris Raymond in London, but also Owen Barry in Somerset, England, with whom he’s hoping to work on more shearling. “Clarks used to be based there, and Margaret Howell still uses them. They’re a shining light.”
Now—a few people I spoke to said they didn’t have a jacket recommendation. But we’re still entering leather season more generally, so I wanted some picks regardless. Jeroen Vandergruiter loves the gloves from the 140-year-old Ganterie Boon in Antwerp, which are “executed in Peccary leather, and come in these great boxes too.” Maachew Bentley uses a Dotline cassette wallet, but also a Danielle Nicole for Disney leather bag celebrating the 30th anniversary of Aladdin. Nick Dierl’s most-worn leather items are his Tricker’s for James Coward Monkey Shoes. Another Aspect’s Daniel Brondt? Our Legacy’s Western Buckle Belt. Jordan Stone has finally broken in his Dr. Martens 1461 Oxfords. The Ouze’s Toby Vernon loves his Mulberry Bayswater bag. Andrew Livingston likes the Tarvas Wanderers (as does Maradiaga), but will be launching an entire new brand soon—Canal Footwear—featuring a “derby that prioritizes comfort, without looking gimmicky.”
A few of the jacket-wearers also had recs: Swann says this from A Day’s March is the best work bag he’s ever owned, while Camisas Manolo’s Manuel Molina says Tricker’s Bourton shoe is perfect for wider feet. Ethan Glenn wears Morjas’ Black Grain Ivy Loafer, and Nikolaj Hanson likes Lemaire’s Western Boot. Today Clothing’s Eric Hardin says Phigvel’s Aviator Boot, in collaboration with Lady White Co., is his best—as did Caruso, and von Hausswolff is hoping to pick up a pair soon also.) Hampus also loves Niceness’ new Hermés-style horse leather shoulder bag. And Lazaro says the Nîmes boot from French brand Le Gardian is a style that a “bunch of us have,” including Jamie Ferguson and Permanent Style’s Lucas Nicholson. “They’re from the maker, so it’s good value—priced direct from the factory.”
How Simon Merz wears it
Currently in Berlin, Simon Merz is the head of hardware at Dinamo Typefaces, with whom he also has an NTS Radio show. We met when he was still in London, and I immediately liked his style, which pulled from both his skating background and his childhood in a German hillside town, Ravensburg, that’s famous for puzzle manufacturing. But then I realized he was really about this life when Merz told me he alters almost everything he buys, including his T-shirts.)
When we first met, you were wearing a cow earring. Remind me of the story there?
I grew up next to cows; when I was around 20, I was living with my hometown friend in Bremen, and he had a cow earring at a time when not every guy had an earring. I thought it was so sick. Ten years later, I was living in Vienna and came across one while looking for a gift for my girlfriend in a jewelry shop. It reminded me of him, and home.
What have you worn for the longest?
A pair of Converse Breakpoints in all black leather that I found at Slam City Skates. I bought them six or seven years ago and I’m not kidding, I wear them two or three times a week. A disgusting amount. I can’t wear them when it’s raining now because they leak, but since I bought them, they have never not been my favorite shoes. Recently, I found the all white-version on eBay, and put some off-white laces in them. It started pretty weird, but now I rock it.
What do you have multiples of?
The Lady White Cotton Twill Cap. It’s been my signature for many, many years. At this point, I have about six. I wear them all summer, so they fade out, which is nice on some colorways, less on others. The other thing is the Standard Zip Hoodie by Cease. I feel like it’s the modern Camber—they’re really thick, and after one wash they’re really perfect, and eventually take the shape you want even more. In my opinion, I would say a snug navy blue zip hoodie is the greatest item of all time.
What’s something new you’re loving?
A knitted seamless crewneck by Margaret Howell in dark gray. I don’t really understand how, but it almost looks back to front. I found it in their sale shop when I was just in London.
What’s a meaningful piece for you?
All my band shirts from when I was 12-15. A lot of Blink-182 shirts. I never threw them away, and I always sleep in them. Back then they were so huge on me, but now they actually kind of fit.
If we could buy you something, what would you want?
A time machine, because I missed these Olive Henry’s Japanese twill trousers that he just released through Lost & Found. Even though it was the first item in my whole life I’d set an alarm for.
What brands do you like outside of clothing?
I would say CC-Steding. Very cool stuff. Also shoutout Frog Skateboards—great graphics. And Dinamo Typefaces of course, the best!
If you drew yourself, what would you be wearing?
Washed blue jeans, navy zip-up hoodie, slim all-black leather slippers.
The jeans you’re wearing in your job announcement pic?
Those are some really old Our Legacy jeans, in a wash called ‘Forever Blue’—it’s this wash that literally doesn’t change. It’s weird. The jeans I wear most now are some silver tab Levi’s, but I need to retire them soon as they’re falling apart.
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