357: The black trouser index
I surveyed 40+ pairs to find these final four.
Black pants are my white whale. The canonically perfect tailored trouser…it’s one of those things that you only need one of, and once you find it, you’ll never be tempted to buy another pair again in your life.
Inasmuch, money should be no object, right? (If you believe in cost-per-wear, that is.) Still, it’s taken me the better part of a year of dedicated hunting high and low along the price scale, trials of a dozen-plus pairs, and careful consideration of hundreds more to get to a place where I can throw on a pair from my pants rack and feel pretty damn good about them.
Pant hunts are highly personal, but here’s what I look for in a tailored trouser:
Mid- to low-rise
Zip fly, belt loops, 2-, 3-, or 4-pocket construction—basically, a classic trouser situation at the waist
Clefted butt (cheeks are separated, no uni-butt!)
Single pleats, double pleats, or no pleats at all are all fair game, so long as they are a true straight leg—nothing too snatched, nothing too parachute-y
Primarily organic materials, let’s say max 5% polyester would be ideal…0% is better…viscose is fair game in my book
A reasonably fitted crotch—nothing too “harem”
Below, you’ll find a detailed log of my journey to the perfect pant, from what worked and what didn’t to promising leads I’m following based on deep research and community recommendations. This investigation remains ongoing, so expect an update in the next 90 days with additional feedback on styles currently on pre-order or with my tailor. If you have a must-share suggestion, meet me in the comments!
What I tried
Sportmax Black Hello Trousers: Sagged enormously in the crotch, even in the smallest size. Almost as though the rise wasn’t size-graded along with the rest of the proportions.
The Row Selvie Pants: Ass-chokers. A bit too fitted throughout and with back pocket flats that project horizontally off the slope of your butt.
The Row Jesse Pants: I was sure these would be a great fit, but the sizing nuked the possibility for me, even the smallest available size (which, if you know The Row, runs large) were pouchy all over.
Reformation Vida Low Rise Pant: Inconsistent sizing across materials (I tried two different colors), and honestly the fabric was just so thin, not pleasant to wear.
Phoebe Philo Eased Trousers: Run enormous! Clown pants! Not really of the same category as this search as they feature an all-around elastic waistband, but as I have a similarly built pair from Helmut Lang that I wore for years before the elastic stretched out (more on these below), I tried them nonetheless.
Prada Gabardine Pants: I tried on a few pairs in Milan including these and the below), and as much as I wanted them to work, I was just swimming in these. I think between all the Pradas and the Rows, I’m starting to think vanity sizing has gotten out of control, and I’m starting to get “sized out,” if that makes sense.
Prada Grain de Poudre Pants: These were a much better fit than the above, but too tapered in the leg. I also didn’t love the logo charm fixed to the front.
Wardrobe.NYC Straight Leg Trouser: I bought and returned these in off-white, because now that it’s summer, this hunt starts all over again in brighter shades. It wouldn’t matter with the black version, but the outline of the pockets showed through the light fabric (don’t love that). Beyond that, they were nowhere near as “regular fit” throughout the rise (too high) and crotch (too low)…everything just has to try and be a borrowed-from-the-men’s-section fit lately.
Ralph Lauren Polo Wool-Blend Wide-Leg Pant: These were close—nice fabric composition and drape down the front—but I found that the butt was a bit too pancake-y. I will forever demand separated cheeks from pants!
What I kept
All of these have been adjusted at the hem to my height, but none were taken in at the waist, as I’ve found that changes the shape of the entire pant in ways I don’t love (the hip bulges out, the back is pinched, etc). It’s what’s made this mission especially tricky.
The Row Lilas Pant
A cotton-linen blend that feels seriously great, a direct path to my dopamine receptors. These are the droppiest crotch of the successful bunch, without veering into patchouli territory. A wide leg without going full parachute sail. And, as with the best of The Row, careful attention paid to retaining semblance of a figure beneath an oversized silhouette—each lobe of the butt is granted its own lane.
Our Legacy Hip Trouser
The flare-iest shape, which I do think elongates my legs and also strangely elongates my torso. Can’t be mad at that. The fabric is a type of canvas, so it’s quite rigid, which retains that clean pressed fold. I also have these in tropical wool gray, and the fit’s a bit different—a hair tighter.
Aritzia The Effortless Pant Lo-Rise
Honestly, these shouldn’t even be on the list because they’re entirely polyester (and I hate to be reminded of that when I see it in the sunlight), but truthfully I might like the fit of these best. They sit just below the belly button and have a comfortable distance from the band to the crotch that provides maximum ease of movement without ever causing me to feel the seam between my thighs, i.e. not a dropped crotch but a perfectly sensible crotch.
I’ve already started a conversation with my tailor (it’s Ramon) about remaking these in a viscose, but I haven’t been able to part with them for long enough for him to do the job!
Toteme Double-Pleat Straight Trousers
Fairly high-waisted as far as this list is concerned, but deliver a polished, at-ease look, which is more important to me than a list of rules (in some way or another, all the finalists break the rules anyway). From my “winners,” I’ve owned these the longest…three years now, and still in virtually new condition.
Honorable mentions
Vintage Escada Margaretha Ley Trousers: I was reminded how much I used to wear these by someone in the chat, actually. I currently own them in cream, navy, and marled gray. They’re usually findable on eBay for under $50, which makes them one of the best deals on this list for the quality—always 100% pure new wool. But if we’re being picky, they are a true high-rise, which is why I haven’t sought them out in black on this current endeavor.
Studio Nicholson Awe Trouser: Such a fun pant, but doesn’t really fulfill the criteria of this search. A little sportier, a little quirkier. A weekend pick.
Helmut Lang Black Wool Car Trousers: Wore these trusty guys for a few years before the all-around elastic waistband got too loose (that’ll happen after many, many wears pulling them up over your hips). The gathered drape was great, as was the 100% wool makeup, but my end game now is to find something with a waistband you can tuck a t-shirt into.
Shaina Mote Boy Trouser: Have owned these in various fabrics and colors (linen salt was great), so I can imagine cotton onyx would work. For the purposes of this specific hunt, though, they are too wide of a leg for general wear.
Uniqlo U Wide Chino Pants: A really great pant! The cotton is nice and papery, and the leg shape is stellar. I just can’t bring myself to count a chino towards this hunt, though. More “pant” than “trouser” if you get me!
What still might work
Saint Low-Rise Tailored Pant: I preordered these 100% Italian wool trousers with what looks like my white whale rise after months of bothering the brand founder about when they’d be coming back. Set to ship late June.
St. Agni Carter Pants: I have these in Moss Green and have been looking desperately for months for my size in black (currently only in stock in L).
Kallmeyer Damian Trouser in Stretch-Knit Suiting: A bit big on me out the box, and not as low-rise as is my end goal. But I have these out to the tailor currently and have a feeling they’ll be bullseye in their own category.
PRISCAVera Carbone Tailored Suit Pants: Just came across these while writing this post and remembered how taken I was when I used to see tailoring come down the PRISCAVera runway. It’s not really known as a tailoring brand, but the fits were always exceptional. I’d be very curious to try these as they seem to fit the ticket. (And they’re on sale in an M here.)
Callas Milano Jules Stretch Crepe Pant: Came up 2x in the Magasin chat when I asked with the caveat that “the one style is always sold out.” This is currently true of most sizes, but I reached out to the brand and they’re sending along a pair to test when they get stock back sometime soon this month. They’re less of a straight-fit trouser and more the kind of slimming style that used to be everywhere in the 2000s and is almost impossible to find now. Excited to give them a whirl.
Studio Nicholson Rie Pants: Frantically seeking these in my size in black since spotting them in the SSENSE sale (I’ve found them in navy though). I have a strong hunch these will do just the trick.
What the streets are saying
COS Relaxed Wide-Leg Cotton Pants: I assume this is the style people mean when they suggest COS, though it may be these wool ones. They’re 100% cotton and $120, so a great value.
Etei Cotton Trouser: A rec I’m very curious to know more about via my girl Violet Marmur. They’re not exactly in the same vein as everything else here, but they look fab—for Brooke Callahan fans, say. She says, “Very small brand I found from my old co-worker who is a current FIT student. Said she knows the girl who makes them and she sources the cotton from the same mill as Rick Owens? Didn’t fact check that lol. But I can confirm that the poplin looks and feels very luxe 🫡”
Buck Mason Midtown Trouser Wool: Elora Joshi recommends these, but I can only find them in dark navy. She says, “deeply underrated option. Mid-rise with a tiny kick flare! Like ‘90s Prada.”
Dries Van Noten Pleated Cotton-Jersey Track Pants: Via fellow chronic trouser hunter Miranda Levitt. She says they “wear very casual and almost like a dressy sweat pant.” Dries came up a few times, though, and I think you can get closer to the heart of this search through various wool styles. She also mentions Ann Demeulemeester, Jacquemus, Isabel Marant…
The Row Igor Pants: Recommended in the chat. I feel like I’ve tried these at one point and found them to be (shocker) too oversized, but I realize this fit and rise is great for other heights and body types. The Igor seems to be a higher-rise version of the Lilas Pants from above that were a slam dunk for me.
Favorite Daughter Favorite Pant: These came up a bunch in my own hunt and again in the chat. The fit seems bullseye, but the composition is again 63% polyester, which puts them in the same arena as the Aritzias above. I’m tempted to try because I know the fit would be favorable, but I’d rather not add more high-poly content to my closet. Just a personal choice!
Róhe Cigarette Scuba Trousers: Came up on IG and the chat several times. More in the vein of High Sport kick flares with their compression fabric.
La Collection Sada Trousers: Very elegant, classic cut put forth by the chat in aspirational 100% Italian virgin wool. A slightly higher rise and subtly lowered crotch means these aren’t for me and my 5’5” frame, but they’d be great on someone else.
Kallmeyer Le Smoking Trouser: Very intrigued by the sporty suiting material, in this case, 97% viscose 3% elastane, which lends a slight sheen. They cite a “nipped waist,” i.e. higher rise, but could be just the unicorn another shopper is looking for.
Loulou De Saison Sbiru Trousers: 100% wool and currently on sale at SSENSE. The pleats look nice and roomy for a comfortable wear.
Apiece Apart Bari Crop Trouser: Recommended by the chat as a summer pant (they’re a linen-cotton blend). I would put these in the same vein as Studio Nicholson or Cordera as far as silhouette.
Margaret Howell Single Pleated Cropped Trousers in Yak Wool-Linen: An IG rec, didn’t specify the style, but these look the most promising to me from the brand’s ecomm. The composition sounds super tactile and luxurious to me. The single sharp pleat folds outwards (inwards is my biggest pet peeve) and looks supremely elegant.
Proenza Schouler Weyes Pant in Matte Double Crepe: Seem thicker in the waistband than I tend to personally opt for, but could be balancing on taller figures.
Co Classic Pleat Front Trouser in Fluid Crepe: A chat pick. Their 97% viscose 3% elastane composition sounds like the ideal for the flowy yet weighted drape I’m looking for, so these seem promising. The description warns they run. big though, so I’m guessing the oversized fit would wind up being overkill.
Wanze Song Cinch Trouser Tropical Wool Black: Men’s pants inspired by French workwear but easily unisex for sizes 28+. Tropical wool is the shortest path to my heart, so I feel like I’d love these.
Vintage Armani, Kenzo, Comme Des Garçons: Good names to hunt if you’re opting for resale, per chat suggestions.
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This was a truly helpful and impressive post! Not sure any pant would be up to the challenge of not giving me a “unibutt,” but maybe?
Obsessed with this rabbit hole research!!