326: Can someone spot me $11,260?

The future (FW25) is now.

Feb 16, 2025

Welcome to Future Shopper, a special-edition send rounding up the best runway pieces coming next season (with see-now-buy-now insights throughout). Today, with NYFW in the rear view mirror, we’re looking back at the things we’re most likely to be purchasing in Fall ‘25. See past seasons’ Future Shoppers here.

It’s a new year, a new string of fashion weeks, and thus a new round of Future Shoppers for me to publicly build out my wishlists for the season ahead. In a way, these edits are for my own selfish benefit, like a playbook for navigating new arrivals by the time they roll up to retail.

Just this week, I pulled up the Future Shoppers I wrote back in September—those looking toward the pieces just now hitting stores—and got the rush of excitement realizing some of the things I’d zeroed in on are finally available to buy: Miu Miu’s startlingly good mohair blazers and inevitably viral thong-sneakers for two, the Dries peplum skirt in case you missed it on pre-order, Victoria Beckham’s leather blouson. Khaite’s organza short-sleeve button down has come and gone from its own site, but it’s on pre-order elsewhere. Urgently on the shoe front, Alaïa’s thong wedges have arrived (!!!), as have Neous’ “secret flip flop” Bosona heels.

Also, I’m sure no one but me cares, but my price predictions have been so, so accurate. Go me.

As far as the shows, showrooms, and lookbooks that just swept through New York, there was a tendency towards sameness and mis-timed safeness. Mid-century primness and steely ‘90s minimalism are predictable. Suiting can easily look like three kids in a trench coat. The bounds of “good taste” are so sanctioned it can feel like North Korea in the depths of Vogue Runway.

Collections that had the most success were those that remembered we wear clothes at all times, not just when we’re being perceived or photographed or whatever. So here they are, the pieces I’ll be opening high-stakes tabs for when they finally become available in fall of 2025

Tory Burch sheer sequin vest/dress

Best collection of the week. It was an epic that steered us from stoner dad to Cotswolds royalty to ‘80s avant-garde. The thought put into textile development is so immediately obvious—super technical knits and experimental tweeds—we’re talking Blazy’s Bottega levels of manipulation. I’m unwell with a serious case of couldn’t-possible-pick-just-one. I just wish they allowed things to look this wild on ecomm, where the tension between the two Torys (cool-girl Tory and Connecticut Tory) remains unresolved.

Estimated cost: $1,100

Also tempting: Fitted tweeds, a plush, pin-pricked polo, obviously the decadent sweatpants, peep-toe Z-strap pumps, frayed corduroy evening wear, pony hair sandals, those ribbon gowns…

Styling I’m stealing: Brooches on shoes, wish I had registered this ages ago.

Khaite flop-over top

I would trust Khaite to make sexy, structured, fashion party-appropriate attire if my life depended on it. From the puff-shouldered corset top I got years ago to this season’s big coat buy, I have a 100% success rate with the brand. What’s different and great about this bouncily undressed top is the air of a louche-ness, the confidence to be just a bit more haywire within an established framework.

Estimated cost: $2,800

Also tempting: Frayed-edge sculpted tops and dresses, TV static knits, a woven wool wrap dress that was elegant as hell.

Styling I’m stealing: This is my The Row cap’s time to shine, but—get this—now I’m wearing it facing forwards.

Kallmeyer the last pants I’ll ever need

It does seem as though these might be the pants that actually address everything I’m looking for in a trouser today, but don’t let that distract you from the rest of the collection, which, if it was helpful, I would list in full as my “pick.” Many looks landed themselves instantly in my album of styling references, and what’s almost confusing about this collection is parsing out what’s desirable for the pieces themselves versus how they’re put together…most times it’s both. It’s giving expunge your entire existing wardrobe and make way for mass replacement.

Estimated cost: $720

Also tempting: Optical illusion layered slinky dress, contrast-trim button-down, another excellent tassel belt, glasses case as evening bag.

Styling I’m stealing: Faded plaid button-down tied around the waist—lady grunge.

Thom Browne freaked button-down

These went completely unnoticed (by me at least) at the show, but when seen up close, the collars on Thom’s shirts are really something—they button down away from the neckline, giving a tie a clear runway to hang straight down after being looped inside the shirt around a second band collar. It sounds complicated, but that’s what pictures are for. This show changed my mind about Thom’s clothes being actually wearable as opposed to hive-identifying uniforms or cosplay.

Estimated cost: $850

Also tempting: Lurch coats, garter wader boots (not really I guess, but I find them so sexy), this unbelievable oversized tweed-silk skirt suit. A jacket that looks printed or maybe painted, but when you peer in you see that it’s been painstakingly quilted, each shaded sliver a carefully lain strip of fabric.

Styling I’m stealing: Fearless layering, we’re talking five or six articles deep.

Eckhaus Latta patchwork boots

Made in collaboration with Ecco.kollektive, the cool, young arm of the 60+-year-old Danish leather brand, Ecco. I shared this sentiment in an earlier FW report, but I see this refinement of the category as an earnest shot for the brand to be a bonafide competitor to Lemaire, whose bags and shoes are revered by a growing set. Eckhaus’ bag launch last year (also shown on the runway) doubly positions it to be the American counterpart and hit the same global ascent Lemaire is experiencing right this moment.

Estimated cost: $770

Also tempting: I wish a pair of leather pants would fit me like that!

Tibi velvet burnout dress

We really are back to that moment in the ‘90s, huh—I guess no nostalgic stone goes unturned. For as much as I love Alanis Morissette (my first ever concert), I appreciate Tibi’s sense to bring the fabric into 2025, with a more sculptural, shell-like construction—an echo of this nylon version from the current season.

Estimated cost: $1,495

Also tempting: Papery wool shirting, great ‘80s slouch boots, and a fitted field jacket (smart evolution of a style we’ve grown immune to in its current form). Also that trompe l’oeil dress really got me.

Colleen Allen fitted fleece

I have the roomier, lined orange version from the current collection already, but the addition of the more closely tailored cut wouldn’t be redundant. I’m frankly itching to test its dynamism in the context of my closet—with trousers and a shiny belt, with a a column skirt, hooked only at the collar over a slip dress…

Estimated cost: $1,050

Also tempting: The poplin pants with the scrunchie ankle (I’ll wear them all the time). Hooded hook-and-eye sets. I’ve also decided relatedly that from the current season, this dress I’ve been dreaming about has become non-negotiable.

Calvin Klein Collection slingbacks

I have to roll my eyes at some of what have become 2020s tropes (scarf coats, too-long sleeves) but a collection can be flawed while individual pieces are still desirable.

Estimated cost: $480

Also tempting: Look 4’s three-piece suit; the glasses, of course; the rarity of an unbranded bag giving creamy, minimal Fane; those Wallabee-wannabes (not for me but I appreciate the reference); a keyring chainmail bag!

Altuzarra nude mesh slingbacks

I’m overdue for a shoe to take over my whole personality and this is it.

Estimated cost: $795

Also tempting: That insane fringed dress, metal collars, another tall and slouchy boot with a way-forward vamp.

I would be just so happy to be a Marc Jacobs doll for a day

Not even ironically, the proportions are so exacting. I hope he at least actually produces the tab-tipped shoes…good god.

Estimated cost: $1,200…but most likely priceless runway samples

Also tempting: A spotted cravat.

Styling I’m stealing: Clothes that use volume to float off the body (Khaite does this well in a real-life way).

Bonus picks

Fforme tassel belt: Also seen at Kallmeyer and Heirlome, the tassel belt that walked the Fforme runway was of a kinky equestrian bent.

Giovanna Flores collaged scarf top: Stylist Giovanna Flores (who’s worked with Baserange for years) lookbook-debuts her namesake label of quilted fabrics in the same vein as SC103.

Staud puffy satin skirt: I’m coming 360º around to Staud, who I had to step away from for a few years when the quality was inexcusable. I’m finding lately that the standards have come up as the brand steps into the quickly vacating middle-price tier.

Maria McManus x Don’t Let Disco brooch: A great complement to Maria’s cautiously merchandised collections, designed to sell well and reduce overproduction. These interchangeable embellishments spice up the sensible pieces.

Herilome gathered column dress: Sexy and louche (again…must be the mood lately). Someone invite me to a gala when this hits retail.

Ashlyn layered long-sleeves and gathered pants (all of Look 6, basically): This was an oh-shit moment for me, among the single best looks of the season. So simple in its own way, and so right.

Coach maxi aviator shearling: I say this all the time, but I think the lid on Coach’s superior (and fairly priced) outwear game is about to be blown all the way off. Also loved the beat up mini lady bags, spun out of whaat must have been countless references salvaged from estate sales—‘90s coffee-shop grunge is striking hard this season.

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