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Leona Hoch's avatar

Hey, I'm not sure if you're aware of this, but soft butch means something specific in a queer context... For some queer people it is the best approximation of their expression of gender and sexuality within and against a dominant culture that demands heterosexuality, gender essentialism.

My understanding is you're using the term here to capture a shift towards a feminine lens or touch on brands specializing in suiting, but I feel appropriating this term can be harmful in a way you're not intending.

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laura reilly's avatar

Hey, yes I'm actually aware and found the term fitting in capturing the shift I'm describing! Leoni at CK and Daniella are both queer and out and I think that part of their identities is legible in their work. I can't speak to Frances' identity but I felt a lot of alignment in her collection with this thread.

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Leona Hoch's avatar

Right, so I guess what I'm getting at is that there's a more specific conversation to be had about these designers' queerness and how it is expressed in each of their brands, rather than using the term as a catchall aesthetic or "era," which makes it feel broad, bordering on monolithic.

Thank you for your response and for engaging with me on this!

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laura reilly's avatar

Totally, I'm sure someone could definitely expand on that in a greater capacity. To be sure, what I'm referring to in my bullet point is not about suiting or feminine menswear at large (which is everywhere already), but about these designers in particular heading up a new vanguard in New York!

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fog emotions's avatar

i really appreciate your thoughts & share your sentiments.

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Mary O'Keefe's avatar

Thanks for the great tip about Johnston's! Of course all their still on the RealReal has now sold...

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