317: PMW Days 1 + 2 / Laura and Louis, reporting live

Plus perfume jam, from costumes to Camisas, and what I wore to Lemaire.

Introducing Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we’ll be covering shoppable observations from scenes of interest daily: Paris Men’s Week, Days 1+2.

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Weather report

42ºF / 6º C Cold but bearable…with the ever present threat of rain

Itinerary

Jan 21

3p Arrive from London via Eurostar *LC

4:30p Auralee show — no one’s color-matching (or styling zip-up hoodies) like Ryota Iwai. Also, loved seeing send #267’s Saager Dilawri a few seats over with his daughter on his lap. That’s parenting. *LC

5p Arrive from New York *LR

5:30p Checked out Husbands *LC

6:30p Store scouting Beige Habilleur — literally zero filler in their brand list. Loved this maritime coat, and these shoes by (best name ever) Heinrich Dinkelacker. *LC

7:30p Waly-Fay dinner *LC + LR

Jan 22

10a NN07 showroom — the waffle-knit tees felt very nice to touch *LC

11a Acne Studios showroom *LC

11:30a Lemaire show — the collection was sublime—cool without being over-kneaded—but especially notable was the seeming uptick of press to come from it…taken in tandem with a recent BoF piece about business booming, I think we’re seeing Lemaire’s ascent to a new tier of mainstream. *LR

2p Coffee with APC *LR

2p Colin Meredith showroom *LC

3p Lady White Co. showroom — where I was soon followed by Sweetu from C’H’C’M and Noah Johnson *LC

4p Another Aspect showroom *LC

4:30p Camisas Manolo showroom — Madrid-based designer, used to make costumes for the theatre and ballet—his decision to place the shoulder seams just a little further forward than normal comes from an earned understanding of how fabrics actually move with your body. *LC

5p Le Bon Marche drive-by *LR

6p Palmes drink *LC

7p Dinner with Nitty Gritty buyers at Tarantula *LC

7:30p Dinner with EDL at Ojii *LR

*LR: Laura’s schedule, *LC: Louis’ schedule

The look

Lemaire Black Asymmetrical Bathrobe Coat, $1,951 $2,295 / Rosetta Getty Zip-Up Top, $495 / Fane Bra Bag, $427 $610 / Marséll Tillo Decollete Heels, $345 $805 / Sandy Liang earrings (similar from Camille Surault, $250)

Magasin intel

• I was foggy on the details around the chopstick rests heard round the world at Ojii (had wrongly thought it to be Charlotte Chesnais or maybe Sophie Buhai), but got definitive word it is Alican Icoz, whose other work is brilliant. *LR

• Fane was meant to host a sample sale in Paris this week, but instead they moved it online. A win for the Americans (we needed one). *LR

• Ran into Amanda Lee Burkett, who was wearing a yellow Hermès raincoat from 2001—a Margiela year. Sourced on TheRealReal, and the envy of us all as the drops started to fall. *LC

• Behind me at Auralee, one young attendee said to their (older) seatmate: “This is my first ever fashion show.” The other responded: “This is the only show I still go to.” Sums up their big tent appeal these days. (Next to me, Leo Gamboa, who oversees collaborations at Levi’s, was in a very nice, well-worn jacket from a brand called Aton.) *LC

• Seemingly every designer boutique—from Beige to The Broken Arm—is proudly displaying their new Rier arrivals immediately on entry. *LC

• Acne Studios presents as a trend brand these days, but its entire business ultimately hinges on the success of its Levi’s 501-inspired 1996 jean (named for the year they were introduced). As one Acne retail contact put it to me: “If there’s no 1996, there is no Acne.” *LR

• Lady White has a great ankle-height Chelsea boot coming—a Chelsea slipper?—but the guys were all in the Aviator Zip (and I picked up my Black Suede Trainer order.) They’re also launching pajamas, in Super 120s wool. *LC

• Fragrance brand Perfumer H has its own boutique on the luxury womenswear floor of Le Bon Marché, which is how I discovered that not only is there a new status hand soap in town, but the brand also makes…jam? *LR

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