283: This city is trying to bankrupt me

My $34,910 Paris runway receipt.

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Welcome to Future Shopper, a special-edition send rounding up the best runway pieces coming next season (with see-now-buy-now insights throughout).

Today, with PFW in the rear view mirror, we’re looking back at the things we’re most likely to be purchasing in Spring ‘25. See past season Future Shoppers here.

The half-collar-out trick is still in play across many brands, as is a love for burgundy in all its forms, wire-supported scarves have been an unlikely micro trend to emerge, clogs’ second coming is here, and there’ve been a lot of stupid-looking sunglasses IMO.

Does all of that amount to $34,910? Not exactly, but the takeaways I feel most strongly about from Paris’ runways and collection viewings for SS25, by my best estimate, do. (This was my annual salary the first year I lived in New York. The expense of designer fashion is not lost on me, hence this being a fantasy spree rather than a real one.)

The star pieces from the week came from blockbuster houses (the Hermeses of the world), small and impactful operations like Niccolo Pasqualetti and Uma Wang, and everything in between—which, I’m learning, includes not-as-big-in-Europe-yet The Row (their store opening should change that).

Between this great offering and my shopping list from NYFW, I have a lot of deliberating to do before first spring deliveries arrive in February. For those pieces I simply can’t wait to lock in, I’m lucky enough that I can pre-order at least a third of them from Moda Operandi as early as this week. Don’t be surprised if I’m somehow the first person in the Chloe bloomers, you’ll know how I got my hands on them.

The Row chinos

The Row clearly does not wish to be perceived, between its no-phones show and undecipherably blurred look book. But we’ll synthesize all the clues we’re given anyway. The biggest commercial possibility among them, and something I’m already very excited to try on in store and build my season around, is what looks like a chino, one category of pant the brand has yet to conquer (as it has with jeans, cords, pleated pants, elastic waists, and drawstrings). Seems like a take on a treasured ‘90s Eddie Bauer thrift store find.

Estimated cost: $1,300

Also tempting: Scalloped necklines, scrunchy ballet flats, mohair, raw edges, sunglass case-sized clutches, and layers of fine linen are some guesses I have for items we can expect for spring.

Styling I’m stealing: Funny that everyone’s going to be weird about t-shirts next season.

Hodakova deconstructed pant drop-waist dress

How is it that every brand has remixed and reinvented suiting, and somehow Hodakova manages to make the act of reconstruction feel genuinely new? I feel a great urgency from within looking at this entire ensemble, down to the coral lip and bare toe. It’s complicated clothes communicating simple ideas.

Estimated cost: $1,150

Also tempting: Need to know more about these flop-heels, an allover-button dress that could bring you to tears, a dress that’s just collars all the way down, a suit-lining gown (Hodakova’s signature).

Styling I’m stealing: Argyle + flip flops, not sure why this is a revelation to me; a zip-hoodie over a button down with a skirt…also so simple but I finally have an idea of how to wear the Auralee quarter-zip hoodie I love but haven’t gotten much use out of over the years.

Hermes bowling bag

Oh look, she wants an Hermes bag, should we throw a party? Invite Bella Hadid? The inside-out Birkin is a total gimmick that’s going to do great for the brand (and full respect to them for it), but I have personally lost my marbles for the simpler, smoother top-handle bowling tote with deep diamond handle attachment tabs.

Estimated cost: What does an Hermes bag even cost these days…should we say $10,000 and call it a day? There’s only so much peering into the black box one not engaging in The Game can do.

Also tempting: The muted-tone leather bangles, might be the next moment after Saint Laurent’s resin jewelry. And I’m not so pick-me as to say that I care more about the clothes than the bags at Hermes, but I do respond strongly…strongly enough to punch “Hermes coat” into my resale searches around show time every season (reminder that Seraphin produces Hermes’ leather outerwear and can be found on the secondhand market for much less).

Styling I’m stealing: Leather belts over wrap-waists and scarf-waists.

Paloma Wool “t-shirt dress”

Not only at Paloma, but also at Issey Miyake and Lii Studio, we’re now putting our t-shirts on by applying them to the outside of our bodies. This dress version comprising multiple jersey tees really got me, but it was a tough choice between this and the single tee versions.

Estimated cost: $550

Also tempting: Paloma Wool is getting into nylon…and that speaks to me. And there’s another gorgeous leather jacket with close-together buttons to consider (alongside Kallmeyer’s and Connor McKnight’s).

Styling I’m stealing: All of the Santangelo jewelry (designed specifically for the show), worn across the body or draping out of a hand…romantic much!

Schiaparelli boned polo dress

Bra-fucking-vo, Daniel. No wonder every VIC and VIP is asking for Schiaparelli, there was just so much in this collection I was itching to zip myself into.

Estimated cost: $5,700 (keep in mind…this is demi-couture)

Also tempting: Safety pin-embellished knits, a jewel-buttoned striped silk dress, that KNOCKER of a ring, an asymmetrical mini dress that seemed to be attached at the hem to its robe coat, a scarf-tie mini skirt, maybe not for me, but the metal foot-tendon shoes look like madeleine tins lol.

Styling I’m stealing: Bringing back the chain belt slung over baggy shorts.

Miu Miu blazers (and a bone to pick)

I would say Miu Miu is giving me shades of MNZ, but that cavity is now being filled everywhere (at Tory, Dries, Alaia). The stronghold on messy, womanly dressing is now being redistributed back into the public domain.

But we still have the problem of Mrs. Prada being in the embarrassing situation of knocking off other people’s handbags…at Prada, The Row’s Margaux, and lately, Alaia’s Teckel, Toteme’s belted bucket…and at Miu Miu, JW’s loafer bag. Her brands are in a position that they could throw a logo on a kettle and call it an It bag, so why the wandering eye?

Let me go a step further and say it’s time for the Prada group to do something about its stiff leather shoes, which are at odds with the state of our attractions—it’s where Prada went wrong with its interpretation of the Margaux, in thinking it was a set of buckles or curved lines that made the bag, when actually it was its perfect floppiness. Paper-thin and melty-soft leathers at Martiniano and The Row are like the imperfection-embracing natural wine of the moment, while Prada and Miu Miu’s thick, ankle-breaking patent leather is like Robert Parker’s dated Bordeaux. If a fashion show is just a vehicle for selling accessories, sell me some accessories!

When I ask myself what Miu Miu is doing better than most right now, that’s color. And, impossibly good blazers—the kind that hang and drape and hit in such a way that I, maybe selfishly, know would look great on me—and which I hope don’t show up in February baring logos.

Estimated cost: $4,200

Also tempting: There is always a Miu Shiu (despite my gripes about the leather), and I’m rooting for the stretch thong sandal. The spirit of the brand is seen best here, even if I’m feeling a bit eeky about it at the moment.

The Chloe bloomers

Not in love with the effect this collection will surely have on downmarket inventory (Free People is in a frenzy, check on your Philadelphia friends), but I admit these lace-silk pants are the catalyst to a million outfit ideas.

Actual cost: $3,050, available for pre-order

Also tempting: The charmed kitten heels and cropped, gathered ‘80s jacket, preferably together.

Styling I’m stealing: Contradictions, i.e. suiting + desert lace; pairing a cropped velvet hook-and-eye jacket (I have one from JPG that I bought from Chloe Sevigny) with athleisure.

Dries Van Noten peplum skirt

An homage collection from the atelier that pulled from codes Dries himself developed over nearly four decades. I would never have thought a puffy peplum skirt could look low-effort (in a way to strive for). Its slouchy waist and hip pocket have a kind of throw-it-away insouciance that make putting on a colorful silk jacquard less daunting.

Actual cost: $1,730, available for pre-order

Also tempting: Many sculpted wedges, Ikat basketball shorts, a tailored cotton-poplin shirt in a promisingly dynamic striped purple, and the jewelry!!!

Styling I’m stealing: Statement lace bralette with everything, never apologizing for being a heel girl in a flats world.

Magda Butrym scrunchie-waist suede jacket

It’s basically all drop-dead-gorgeous clothes that meets a high quality caliber (why is that so hard to find?). Reformation founder Yael Aflalo claims it’s what she’s doing with her new brand, Aflalo, but actually Magda Butrym has been on this tip all along.

Actual cost: $4,330, available for pre-order

Also tempting: A one-shoulder crochet top I was absolutely seduced by at the presentation, very good wide-leg pants, and hosiery for your head.

Styling I’m stealing: Kind of like the idea of the jacket as a dress, with tights, of course.

Niccolo Pasqualetti double-layered pants

I/we have been doing layered skirts for a while, but I’m just now seeing there is a whole world of layered pants to be explored. (We could all learn to be more like this guy.)

Estimated cost: $850

Also tempting: Oversized suede trench, a khaki bomber, and I still need that necklace

Styling I’m stealing: This collection made me feel differently about finishes with dated or strained associations, as with chains (don’t have to be just an embrace or rejection of “edge”), sequin palettes (as a neutral), apocalyptic art teacher (that these things go together great, actually).

Carven puffy peplum dresses

More puffy peplum action, please. (And, no, the Dries skirt would not make this redundant!)

Estimated cost: $2,050

Also tempting: The first leather bags under Louise Trotter, an unbranded—baring only the flagship’s Champs-Elysees address—doctor’s bag style; there’s a thong sandal I need to know more about.

Styling I’m stealing: round necklaces under square necks, big scarf as coat belt

Saint Laurent pants with a pleat so sharp it could break skin

This was a styling collection full of confidently excellent tailoring, I would wear a lot of it. But, from listening to my wardrobe, I’ve learned that I’m experiencing a shortage of fantastic pants, so that’s where I’d direct my investment this season, knowing it a pair from Saint Laurent would get me into good shape.

Estimated cost: $1,500

Also tempting: Charvet robes strike again, piles of resin and lacquered wood jewelry, bejeweled heels.

Styling I’m stealing: Bombers over blazers, gradients of burnt red, be not afraid of a little paisley, carrying your jacket in the crook of your arm.

Bonus picks

Gabriela Hearst sneakers: On the subdued end of a raucously Western collection. (Also really loved the chainmail tops.)

Kiko Kostadinov windswept skinny scarves: Everyone who was busy with quiet luxury is just now catching up to Kiko, who’s been on the futurism beat since nascency.

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt jersey trench: Why have we not seen this concept explored more before? I would wear it all the time. I can’t quite tell, but I have a feeling the hood may actually be built in.

Uma Wang most-interesting-woman-at-the-party top: Spotted, in conversation with the other woman in archival Comme.

Victoria Beckham leather blouson: Love the confidence of the top being the outfit. I’m always so over coats by early spring—this protects and warms you without the bulk and extra layer. Available for pre-order.

Mame Kurogouchi asymmetrical tank: A plain white tank when the rest of your wardrobe deserves pairing with something a little more refined than Hanes.

Issey Miyake liquid dress: There are so many brides I would like to be over a lifetime, this being one of them. No wonder I have so many white dresses. But in earnest, it’s a fantasy, but not too fantastical not to wear—all you need is the right fete.

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