275: My $8,920 spring capsule wardrobe
Future shopping the SS25 collections.
Welcome to Future Shopper, a special-edition send rounding up the best runway pieces coming next season (with see-now-buy-now insights throughout). Today, with NYFW in the rear view mirror, we’re looking back at the things we’re most likely to be purchasing in Spring ‘25. See past seasons’ Future Shoppers here.
If anyone has a spare $8,920 or so sitting around that they’d like to invest in my spring wardrobe, come find me in the DMs. New York Fashion Week came and went, leaving a snail trail of desire for yet-to-come garments and accessories in its wake, the choicest of which amount to a pretty solid capsule wardrobe (and which would set me back an estimated stack).
A blazer, a button-down, a t-shirt, two pairs of pants, day-to-night shoes, a practical bag, an evening bag, a fancy dress, and what passes for underpinnings (plus a few delightful extras) could carry me through the season spectacularly.
Will I actually buy it all when these pieces hit stores early next year (or in COS’ case, right away)? Some of it, at least! But this exercise of pulling out the best, more buyable items from the week’s shows helps me synthesize the collections in a more pragmatic way. It makes me a better shopper myself, and challenges me to think about how the universes brands created for the season will translate to the streets.
Of course, if a prepaid Visa gift card just happens to land in my inbox for roughly that amount, these are the things you’ll see me ordering.
COS exaggerated shoulder blazer
The show was see-now-buy-now, so the first delivery is already live on the site—it includes this blazer that looks even better in action than on ecomm.
Actual cost: $250
Also tempting: There’s lots of good stuff, but the day the rest of the leather jackets drop is going to be gangbusters for COS (not to downplay how extremely good the one that’s up is). I know its men’s grained leather boat shoes are coming for Saman Amel’s game. And I’m getting this slim-fit hoodie to join the ranks of my quarter zips that are all I wear lately.
Styling I’m stealing: TBH I loved seeing an predominantly black show. Its right around the time of year when that trick feels fresh again, and I’m happy to lean all the way into it.
Khaite organza short-sleeve button down
Khaite was wow. Covered every base and addressed every Khaite shopper while maintaining a totally coherent and compelling throughline. There was strong cover shoot and red carpet material and elevated everyday pieces like these button-downs to placate those committed to getting the most wear out of their investments. Especially into their subtly dropped collar.
Estimated cost: $1,400
Also tempting: Hourglass hand-knit top. Middle-toe covering kitten heels. Slit shoes that are cousins to Tory Burch’s own narrow peep-toes (more below). Phenomenal bags, as they very well should be, considering the price point for accessories has now surpassed The Row…you can tell they’re angling hard for their own Margaux.
Toteme silver minaudiere
We might’ve flirted with them last season, but I think Toteme is mainstream enough to say we’re now officially doing minaudieres. I got one earlier this month from Hunting Season in a fantastic navy, but the all-sterling boxes from Toteme’s SS25 are awesome and wouldn’t be duplicative.
Estimated cost: Honestly, could be anywhere from a couple hundred to $2,000. Depends entirely on the material and manufacture, and there’s nothing to go on as it’s a completely new class of item for the brand.
Also tempting: More belted buckets went down the runway, and I was reminded right away of J.Crew’s own version I’d seen several of at their dinner earlier in the week. Also, all the paper-thin knits like the Lauren Manoogian ones I love.
Styling I’m stealing: Scarves over shoulder bags (also see: Proenza). Not based on the show, but Toteme’s head of PR, Sabina Szymura, wore jet black nail polish throughout the week and I’ve never been so excited to revisit a middle school beauty trend.
Tory Burch pieced bag
An evolution of the runway hit shoes from a couple seasons ago. Reminds me of Bottega’s Drop bag, also pleasingly ergonomic.
Estimated cost: $1,200, on par with the Radziwill
Also tempting: The fringe bag—along with the Flamenco-inspired spots, it’s very Michelle Del Rio. I’ll pretty much, at this point, almost definitely get a pair of the cutout heels when they release a kitten-height version to ecomm.
Styling I’m stealing: The swimsuits bolster my confidence in the two Speedo maillots I picked up a couple weeks ago with fashion, rather than lap-pool, intentions.
Coach I ♥️ NY t-shirt
Thing is, I would virtually never buy a designer I ♥️ NY t-shirt, you can get a perfectly good one at the airport (or even a pair of PJ pants like Geraldine), but their irregularly knit version feels crafted and special. Marcelle Barbosa’s is the other version I’d happily entertain.
Estimated cost: $400…most knits are $350, and let’s assume there’s a slight premium for the runway of it all
Also tempting: Coach’s was obviously a bag show, and a pretty effective one at that. The XXL charm and accessory bags were fresh and different from the gold-hardware strappy top-handle bags we’ve seen everywhere else. But, for me, it was a also a chance for the brand to remind us that it has good outerwear game, too—I’ve always said that Coach is one of the best places to find excellent and (relatively) affordable coats and leather jackets.
Styling I’m stealing: NY centric fashion in general. I bought a sweatshirt from Little Italy’s NYFD at San Gennaro this weekend, so perhaps Coach’s impact is already being felt.
Eckhaus Latta seamed brown jeans
Quintessential EL reimagined workwear guaranteed to be so flattering.
Estimated cost: $400, upper-middle range of how the brand’s jeans are priced
Also tempting: Mike wore a sort of backless, double-faced tank-harness situation to the brand’s dinner-show this week and looked beyond amazing—impossible not to stare at. But the real coup is that Eckhaus Latta is launching bags finally. I got to see them at the showroom in Paris this June, but now the secret is out and we should all get a bit excited. These will achieve fixture-status without much effort, seeing as how it’s obvious that every third person in New York fashion circles is already wearing the brand if you’ve trained your eye correctly.
Alaïa thong wedges
The whole thing was just a very good time. I love a crop top and a low-rise and a thong wedge, and I love the extremely Alaïa fabrics Alaïa can be trusted to use (sumptuous and stretchy). I want to wear it all! But I’ll almost definitely buy the sandals in black satin with a flat, square back.
Estimated cost: $1,050
Also tempting: An oversized mock-neck t-shirt dress that rings a bit Paul Helbers for Fforme.
Styling I’m stealing: Teeny peek out of a very colorful, solid undie.
Connor McKnight nylon pants
A carry-over from Paris Men’s this June, but Connor McKnight is cooler than possibly everyone. His personal style is captivating and totally unique to him, and the things he finds interesting about the world shine through in his collections. I’m as obsessed with the pieces as I am his universe, so it’s hard to break up the sum into its parts. What I will most likely hone in on is a pair of white nylon track pants—if I can ever get my hands on them…due to his tendency to work with limited deadstock fabrics, CM is famously hard to acquire.
Estimated cost: $695
Also tempting: Cool to see Connor and Daniella of Kallmeyer (see below) on the same wavelength re: slim-fit buttoning leather jackets.
Styling I’m stealing: Nylon pants with leather sandals. Trying (and likely failing) to wear a beret without looking like a cartoon.
Colleen Allen lace-trim dress
I’m prone to dressing like a bride, so of course I love Colleen’s off-shoulder slip dress, pinned askew on one side, in a perfect ivory silk not necessarily intended for nuptials (but the mind goes there anyway).
Estimated cost: $1,850
Also tempting: The knit caps are back again this season, nice. Elastic-waist silk pants with a raw edge. A “cropped opera coat,” if you can believe it!
Styling I’m stealing: I bought a lipstick-red Attersee evening shrug recently and have been too shy to wear it how I’d like to most: as a top. Colleen Allen’s version, styled on its own with a white column skirt, has emboldened me. Also, the entire color palette gets me up out of my seat.
Lauren Manoogian pointelle tank + leggings
A romantic base layer or a bold standalone look to wear with a long coat.
Estimated cost: $300 + $375
Also tempting: I’m still stuck on the “super fine” layered knits from this La Garçonne visit, and I’m feeling pretty drawn to the new season versions, a white crewneck and practically transparent nude tee styled with an equally fine skinny scarf.
Styling I’m stealing: Intertwined bags. Black and brown is the new black and navy.
Bonus picks
Proenza Schouler shoulder bag: Is there a world where it’s 2014 again and Proenza has a PS1-level hit bag on their hands? If so, I could see it happening this coming spring and every cutthroat fashion student and clued-in professional is carrying the Teckel-strapped (for lack of a better descriptor) shoulder bag, maybe with a sweater slung over top.
Tibi drop-waist dress (?): I’m planning to swing by the resee, so I’ll have more clarity on what this drop-waist situation actually is, but until then I don’t mind conceptualizing it as either two-part sweater skirt styling or an attached dress. I like the proportions a lot and think this would be a ton of fun to wear to a party or during the day with a nice flip-flop.
Kallmeyer leather shirt jacket: The spirit of Yohji lives in this piece; I’m thrilled to see a swing back from oversized everything to more perfectly tailored shapes that acknowledge the waist.
Maria McManus long tank: Or is it a mini dress over a skirt? This is going to be a big silhouette for spring.
SC103 peasant blouse: I think it’s very plausible that SC103 could be the next Bode. The visual language it’s developed is instantly knowable to its hive, like, with this dress-up-box-y top (my fashion genesis).
LII Studio t-shirt shrug concept: Inspired by the way you tie a sweatshirt around your shoulders, it’s an evening shrug in the shape of a long-sleeve tee with sleeves that connect in the front. Exquisitely simple and so ladylike.
Neous secret flip-flop heels: Pointy-toe kitten heels with a sly thong strap…you’ve never seen anything like it, and that’s the Neous way.
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Laura, the Tibi design we created is a Grey Sculpted Sweatshirt with belt worn with a skirt that can be tied up or left down. A one and done full on dress like this, that would be so limiting. It’s far better that it’s two pieces, and each individual piece worn multiple ways. Anything less would be quite rude of us, right?
What struck me here is how your capsule strips the runway down to anchors—pieces that carry a season but also live beyond it. The blazer, the button-down, the pair of shoes: those become the high-rotation staples you reach for daily. It’s the same tension I see in design work—balancing spectacle with the kind of longevity that makes something worth standing in for ten hours a day.