270: NYFW Day -1 / Berghain's door guy is picky about bombers

Plus J.Crew's Row rep, smoking is cool, and only one outfit worth sharing.

Sep 06, 2024

Introducing Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we’ll be covering shoppable observations from scenes of interest daily: New York Fashion Week, Day -1.

Weather report

68ºF / 20º C

Itinerary

10a THE LOVE LIST popup

3p 111Skin facial at Casa Cipriani — they did this thing where they applied contour gel around my eyes and mouth lines underneath a sheet mask and it was actually very effective/plumping

4p Moda Operandi closet visit

6p Nili Lotan men’s store opening

6p Shopbop 25th Anniversary party

7:30p J.Crew dinner at The New York Public Library — J.Crew relaunched its catalogs and has been doing a big push around them, seemingly all for the sake of brand-building as it’s not a money maker

10p Gant 75th Anniversary party

Didn’t make it to some of these…

A one-look day

J.Crew Relaxed V-Neck Sweater, $98 / J.Crew Gwen Lace-Trim Slip Skirt, $118 / J.Crew Berkeley Bucket Bag, $198 / Saint Classic Leather Belt Silver, $170 / Christian Louboutin Raratonga 55 Leather Mules, $795

Shoppable observations

Yesterday night’s Madewell x Alexa Chung Zippo lighter souvenir—passed around on sterling silver trays nearby bar tables with bowls of cigarettes—was a hit yet again this evening. Smoking is back, and it’s kind of a refreshing leader move for a historically tweeny brand like Madewell to seize the moment in its own rebrand toward a chicer, more ageless standing.
I won’t say who because I didn’t check on the publishing front when we were chatting, but by their own empirical evidence, a Lemaire bomber jacket won’t get you into Berghain but a Bottega (unbranded, unmarked) one will.
The chatter in the Moda closet was that the High Sport pant remains divisive. Men seem to hate the kick flare (do with that what you will), but the straight-leg style has a broader application and might be better suited to more heights.
This J.Crew bag is basically a replica of The Row’s Park bag, except with a oval bottom instead of a rectangular one. I‘ve spoken to the design department over at J.Crew, and it’s a pretty widely acknowledged truth.

Vague job opportunity of the day — stunt journalists

Where have all the talented, young Vice-coded writers willing to do anything for the story gone? Seriously. I’ve heard from three or four editors in the last couple days looking for hungry contributors down to get up in the muck of it all in experiential journalism for a great byline. I used to make niche editorial connections for a living, so if this is you, hit reply and I’ll probably be able to make a match somewhere.

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