191: A suede satchel on par with Métier and The Row

Understated Dutch outerwear on sale, a "New Yorker" Dries polo at SSENSE, and a Comme Lumps & Bumps dress on eBay for a fair price.

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I has a pleasant encounter with the Thierry Rabotin boutique in the UES recently, where the Italian shoemaker—who’s of the same ilk as Irregular Choice, John Fluevog, Camper—struck me as especially full-circle relevant now with their expressive silhouettes and comfort-forward build, like these demure platform slippers; having the effect of seeing salt flats from above, I’m drawn to a new blanket series from Sherris using cashmere and wool cast offs stitched together with collapsing lettuce hems; my impulse was to gatekeep Coriu, a good measure of greatness…the fifth-generation Italian leatherworker behind the brand has kept the bags scarce Stateside, but a decent selection is available at Santa Fe Dry Goods where this suede satchel is just over $1,000 (a great price compared to comparable styles from Metier and The Row); understated technical outerwear brand Welter Shelter, out of Amsterdam, has a range of coats and textured vests on sale at great rates starting below $100—I quite favor this subtle plaid trench; and not infrequently, someone will ask in the chat whether anyone knows when the SSENSE sale will end, and the truth is that I do know (but can’t say), and that it is soon—fortuitously, these Rohé trousers that got gobbled up when they first released are back in stock and among the top pieces I’ve ID’ed to buy before the doors shut (I’d also get this transitional Birrot top-coat for 70% off).

Another great bag brand I’m ready to release from my vaults is Cecchi De Rossi, in this case, its Armor Trolley luggage, entirely handmade and hand-painted in various available vegetable and wine (!) washes that make you wonder what the fetish with aluminum is anyway; in the chat, someone is offloading their Selima Optical Also sunglasses (of CBK fame) and it’s fun to see them out in the wild; a cache of ‘90s-does-‘40s Donna Karan just landed at Nina Gabbana vintage, including this three-piece wool suit consisting of blazer, skirt, and bodysuit; similarly, this ‘86 Alaia three-piece suit is a bit of a gulper at $1,800+, but fairly priced when you consider the cost breakdown of the pieces and the fact that you can get many outfits out of the components combined and apart (it’s unignorably beautiful); and the SS24 Dries collection that I’ve come to refer to internally as “the Harry Potter one'“ is trickling in on SSENSE, where this striped polo (do you see what I mean) has me whipped into a frenzy, imagining it worked into one of those deftly clashing outfits that New Yorkers are so good at.

I think more of The Row discourse should include the fact that this style belt is back—the loops on my 8th grade school pants are stirring in their grave at the sight, obviously I’m watching this space closely; if I were to go the thin-belt route (as seen at Toteme FW24), I would opt for this style from Husbands Paris; a counterpoint to both, the classic-style belt, is best exemplified in this Emme Parsons “Yoyo,” which has been around for several seasons but that I only recently saw in person at a preview…myself and two other editors crowded around Emme and agreed, that’s a good nickel buckle, that’s hard to find; a gorgeous and highly functional pair of weatherproof boots from British heritage footwear brand Grenson—our chat has been scattered with various requests for good-looking rain and wind gear since winter kicked off, and I’ve yet to find a more elegant solution; my A--Company shirt and tie (I have it in stripe) has become such a mainstay in my wardrobe this season that I’m shopping around for more sets—Kallmeyer’s Léa blouse is obviously at the top of that list, and I was surprised to find it on sale for as little as $132 at Houseton’s Piermarini in chartreuse and stripe; chiming in with my semi-regular announcement that I’ve found a CDG Lumps & Bumps dress at a not-unreasonable price of $3,500 (compare that to the others currently listed at $22,000!); I love the feeling of falling in love with the back of something, the dark side of the moon, as with this SS24 Tove coat, whose billowing pleats behind the waist are such a secret elegance only until the wearer is observed indirectly;

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