I really like when the fashion internet gravitates towards and starts talking about one specific concept but I can’t wrap my head around what was revelatory about the Ezra Klein podcast episode! What stood out to you? Another thing I sometimes wonder: is the cyclical desire towards the Prada playbook (refined maximalism/classy with a touch of ugly/it’s good to look a little weird/good taste that is defined by letting your bad taste breathe) a function of the seasons? Winter is so damn drab and the clothes kind of take on that quality too, it’s so much more informed by weather limitations than actual creative expression so I think about whether that energy creates this pressure cooker that has everyone wanting to look and feel a little more unhinged. You got me thinking!
i think what clicked for me and probably others about the ezra podcast was in large part a function of timing—it's like we're at the end of a cycle and looking around trying to find what feels unsatisfactory about it all of a sudden, and the zooming out and reframing the itch as a greater social phenomenon, this algo inevitability, put some things into perspective. and in terms of dressing directionality, i never meant to out words into your or anyone else's mouth of course, but ive been looking around and to me the change feels greater than in and out of seasons—last winter still felt within a longer scandi-coded arch, but the picture that's coming together now reads as having its origins elsewhere. and i think we're all perceiving it somewhat differently, and i think that's so interesting and even more telling that something is afoot!!
definitely did not get the sense you were trying to put words in my mouth! always appreciate your preambles, they're like the outcome of your having taken a sip with a straw out of the culture
The 60s have been trailing the 90s as the second most referenced decade on the runways for some time. It’s hard to label exactly what designers have been referencing but would call it “old Hollywood” or “60s socialites.” It is escapist which is fitting in an election year, but at its core it is a continuation of quiet luxury.
could definitely be the case! but even within the framework of midcentury glamor, which is definitely an element, where do we draw the line at calling something "quiet luxury" - is it anything short of logomania? to draw the jackie o comparison, are pearl necklaces and opera gloves "quiet" in any way?
To me, quiet luxury are clothes that allow the wearer to be seen - not in spite of what she is wearing, and not because of what she is wearing (meaning her clothes and accessories don't project aspiration or a cry for attention) - but because the fabrics, silhouettes, palette all better illuminate the human wearing them. Pearls and opera gloves are quiet, as long as they are not cartoonish, bedazzled, or shimmering with synthetic fibers. (This coming from a person who salivated over the Delia*s catalog through high school, including the highlighter yellow nails and 4" high platform boots. So admittedly I'm not a source of any real knowledge.)
Vibe shift - search for roots... love this.
I really like when the fashion internet gravitates towards and starts talking about one specific concept but I can’t wrap my head around what was revelatory about the Ezra Klein podcast episode! What stood out to you? Another thing I sometimes wonder: is the cyclical desire towards the Prada playbook (refined maximalism/classy with a touch of ugly/it’s good to look a little weird/good taste that is defined by letting your bad taste breathe) a function of the seasons? Winter is so damn drab and the clothes kind of take on that quality too, it’s so much more informed by weather limitations than actual creative expression so I think about whether that energy creates this pressure cooker that has everyone wanting to look and feel a little more unhinged. You got me thinking!
i think what clicked for me and probably others about the ezra podcast was in large part a function of timing—it's like we're at the end of a cycle and looking around trying to find what feels unsatisfactory about it all of a sudden, and the zooming out and reframing the itch as a greater social phenomenon, this algo inevitability, put some things into perspective. and in terms of dressing directionality, i never meant to out words into your or anyone else's mouth of course, but ive been looking around and to me the change feels greater than in and out of seasons—last winter still felt within a longer scandi-coded arch, but the picture that's coming together now reads as having its origins elsewhere. and i think we're all perceiving it somewhat differently, and i think that's so interesting and even more telling that something is afoot!!
definitely did not get the sense you were trying to put words in my mouth! always appreciate your preambles, they're like the outcome of your having taken a sip with a straw out of the culture
♥️♥️♥️
The 60s have been trailing the 90s as the second most referenced decade on the runways for some time. It’s hard to label exactly what designers have been referencing but would call it “old Hollywood” or “60s socialites.” It is escapist which is fitting in an election year, but at its core it is a continuation of quiet luxury.
could definitely be the case! but even within the framework of midcentury glamor, which is definitely an element, where do we draw the line at calling something "quiet luxury" - is it anything short of logomania? to draw the jackie o comparison, are pearl necklaces and opera gloves "quiet" in any way?
To me, quiet luxury are clothes that allow the wearer to be seen - not in spite of what she is wearing, and not because of what she is wearing (meaning her clothes and accessories don't project aspiration or a cry for attention) - but because the fabrics, silhouettes, palette all better illuminate the human wearing them. Pearls and opera gloves are quiet, as long as they are not cartoonish, bedazzled, or shimmering with synthetic fibers. (This coming from a person who salivated over the Delia*s catalog through high school, including the highlighter yellow nails and 4" high platform boots. So admittedly I'm not a source of any real knowledge.)
Haven’t thought about those Delia catalogs for 25 years! Thanks for the memories 😂