156: Phoebe!!!

Plus The RealReal's Rare Finds, Clare Waight Keller for Uniqlo on sale, and Khaite for babies.

I watched my sizes sell out in both styles of shoes I was considering—the Club Loafer and Club Loafer With Fringe—even though I’d had phoebephilo.com open in my browser within 90 seconds of receiving the excruciatingly long-foretold email announcement.

There was an imaginary number in my head as I tabbed open a couple of potential pieces—which also included the glass pendant lanyard, the double face scarf, maybe even a little bit the Bombé sunglasses—to actionably mark the historic launch of Philo’s namesake brand, and then…I just sat there, one page turning inky red after the other, until virtually everything under, like, five grand was gone.

It was always all going to sell out, but it was important to allow the moment to pass and let the wanting leave my body, which I also knew would happen. There are better ways to spend money than to prove “I was there first,” and when that defensive impulse wore off, I couldn’t find any other rationale in.

Cathy Horyn called it “completely new,” “a big step forward,” and “the kind of movement that people have been waiting for.” I have to wonder if we’re talking about the same collection? It’s not just that a $19,000 dress wasn’t deemed immodest enough a price to warrant a “POA”—though this coat, ostensibly more, was—it’s that I’m grasping at the relationship between the clothes and the present.

There seems to be a chasm between what the brand represents and how it represents itself—the female gaze, auto-eroticism, main character syndrome—and the clothes themselves.

A pair or zippered-back pants (which you wouldn’t be able to hem, by the way) don’t accomplish much in my eyes other than alerting those around you that you’re wearing the Phoebe pants. Same with the cargo pants, which frankly feel a bit dated anyway. The shirting and trenches are plain, even if they come with the promise of Phoebe-tailoring excellence (we wouldn’t know, though, would we?). The “lower-priced” bags look like they’re from LN-CC, and the higher-priced ones (massive, no top zipper) don’t have an immediately apparent use case, which is worrying at almost $9,000.

When the picture is completed, maybe the obvious purchase path will dawn on me in retrospect. I’ll admit there is something special in those Nick Cave-ish fringe pieces that I suspect we’ll understand more when the rest of the collection comes out in future drops. But it hasn’t, so I don’t yet.

What stays with me for now, is that I don’t appreciate being gamified as a consumer in a drop model. We’ve been waiting for Phoebe’s comeback for a decade, ultimately rewarded with a stepwise feeding schedule like poorly trained yap dogs jumping up and nipping at the bucket. I’m not here to bite the hand that feeds, but I won’t be quick to pull out my wallet for it, either.

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What’s new

The RealReal Rare Finds

• The RealReal has long been an IYKYK game, with the sussing out of important pieces left to fan accounts like theweirdreal and runwayunder50, or found elsewhere altogether like Tab Vintage and other laser-eyed boutique curators. But now, with the launch of its Rare Finds department (good name), TRR is aiming to democratize fashion archive knowledge. Despite its best efforts, I think a lot of the edit still lacks critical context—what does the platform have against longer descriptions and customized product names? What’s the purpose of calling this sheer JPG top a sweater? Why is J.Lo not mentioned in this pant suit product page? Where we’re left wanting editorially, we’re certainly spoiled with prices. This original Courreges set could easily be listed for 10x through a specialty seller, and—real quick—have you ever heard of TRR selling an actual Picasso before?

• Daniel Lee’s first collection for Burberry has landed on SSENSE, an opportunity to more closely investigate the designer’s bombastic sensibilities playing out across the English heritage brand’s house codes. Some bids, like the acidic, oversized plaids and cosplayish fox tail keychains float untethered in the atmosphere like free radicals. Others, though, like this faux fur-lined trench and purple rose scarf, are exactly what fans who’ve followed Lee over to his new post from Bottega will be collecting.

• Judging by the Reddit fervor alone, it didn’t take any time at all for Skims Men’s to find buy in from the community. And the NBA partnership cinches it. Soon, a boyfriend near you will undoubtedly be lauding the softness of the Cotton, Stretch, and Sport innerwear like he was the first to discover it.

• Nolita jeansmongerer Still Here has added to their denim foundation with a suede capsule, featuring a high-slit midi skirt, suede-paneled jeans, and a slouchy jacket modeled off a YSL coat from the ‘80s.

• Khaite launched kids in a collaboration with Bonpoint, and even though I’ve double checked and come to the conclusion that nothing could conceivably fit me, I’m channeling my baby envy into shopping for my soon-to-be nephew. (This frilly blouse…🥺)

• Zara’s latest drop in its SRPLS series is a love letter to runway looks past: a heathered pink turtleneck sweater is detailed with seams that evoke Eckhaus Latta’s universe of lapped tops; a chocolate leather midi skirt has a utility-pocketed silhouette that might as well be Miu Miu SS23; and a huge tuffet of fringe cinches into an imposing wool-blend vest like a fantasy Kawakubo collab—the friendly prices of all belie their haute sensibilities.

• No delicate “rosette” could weather the Bimba Y Lola x Palomo Spain collaboration—they’re giving us meaty, strong-minded ROSES, blossoms beefing up the boat neckline of a mesh-knit jumper, buds acting as the aggressors on what are essentially sculptural brass knuckles, and foaming up to the chin like a primo bubble bath on halter-neck mini dresses—the few non-rose-centric items are just as muscular, with ab-like pockets on XXL leather tote bags.

• Scottish knit mogul (who’s under the Chanel brand umbrella) Barrie worked with the paragon of coziness with a catch, Sofia Coppola, on a Moda Operandi Trunk Show full of pieces that start buttoned-up—literally, in the case of a high-necked, almost military-style cardigan—and ease into relaxed travel wear, like a navy blanket/scarf and eye mask set, with pit stops in staticky stripes like those traversing a chunky puffer jacket, all of the above rendered in lush cashmere. 

• Sandy Liang enters its first homeware collection, as ever, on pointe, offering ballerina-bait runner rugs hand-tufted with a graphic of pulsing pink ribbon tied into neat bows at either end, coconut fiber doormats printed with mantras of the brand’s princess-oriented ontology, and matching sets for prancing through the domestic sphere, with smocked gingham knickers and aprons alongside white cotton nightgowns and lace-trimmed lounge pants.

• Gohar World’s tableware collaboration with Champagne Lallier contains spoons, dishes, and seafood picks all rendered in resplendent mother-of-pearl, minimally carved to showcase the material’s natural, aqueous idiosyncrasies or add a breath of shell-inspired shaping to a piece’s delicate handle.

• There’s also: UK knitwear label Hades pays tribute to Blondie with a capsule of striped sweaters that reference Debbie Harry’s iconic autumnal look and scarves with intarsia graphics of the band’s most famous lyrics; Hunter taps Kenzo for a FW23 capsule of four pairs of vulcanized rubber boots, both slip-on and lace-up, augmenting the historic boot seller’s silhouettes with Kenzo’s contemporary shaping sensibilities; Fear of God builds on its loungewear foundation with even loungier boxers, sweats, and robes in sturdy neutral fabrics; Edward Cuming’s CUM Jeans are slouchy, shapely, and distressed in unexpected arcs across the thighs and shins; and Vans’ Future Currents and UltraRange™ Neo VR3 sneakers pull the brand out of its slim-profile, skateboard-ready M.O. for a minute with a foray into chunkier silhouettes.

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What’s on sale

Uniqlo: C

• If you held out on purchasing anything from Clare Waight Keller’s low price-point joint, Uniqlo: C, when it first came out, the whole stock is now on sale with many sizes left in outerwear. An oversized, quilted AND plaid puffer coat and a long fleece stand-collar coat are $100 and $60, respectively. A corduroy blazer and matching pants pair for $100, and a mockneck sweater in colors from cerulean to butter is available in all sizes for $40.

• On the final day of the month, La Garçonne has issued a 20% discount on “October’s Best” with LGOCTBEST20. Maria La Rosa socks are a safe place to start if you’re spending more conservatively, but I wouldn’t overlook the fact that The Row shoes AND bags, Sophie Buhai jewelry, Lauren Manoogian knits, and this charming tie-collared Plan C raincoat are also eligible for the sale.

• The Helmut Lang Surplus Sale takes up to 80% off of pieces like a faux leather dress with that perfect asymmetric neck that has had eveningwear in a chokehold all year, an oversized V-neck sweater in faded grape, and a ruched fuchsia button-down with sleeves that extend into fingerless gloves to outfit your wildest Barbie x Hackers crossover fantasies.

• Shopbop leads its 4-day, 40% off sale with pink, but buried the lede on all the good boots that can be dug up: Ulla Johnson lug soles for $400, Proenza Schouler Chelsea boots for $570, J.W.Anderson combat boots for $540 and Philip Lim ones for $350, a tan pair from Wandler for $430, and as a bonus, Margiela tabi loafers for under $600.

• Sephora’s Savings Event grants registered “Insiders” up to 30% off, depending on reward points, a selection of goodies with TIMETOSAVE. The beauty monolith has been accreting cult brands and products like a sticky snowball, so Glossier Stretch foundation, Milk Hydro Grip primer and setting spray, and Youth To The People Superfood moisturizer are all up for the discount—a far cry from the saccharine perfumes and crusty bottles of concealer we “purchased” “legally” from Sephora a decade ago.

• Tekla evil twin Magniberg is hosting a hidden archive sale on its powerfully colorful bedding. Bubblegum poplin pillowcases and steely linen duvet covers come to up to 70% off.

• Maybe it’s just placebo, but do the pieces at 50% off in Hereu’s Winter Archive Sale look more abundant than the quotidian Hereu offerings to you? There’s the steadfast woven-vamp loafer, sure, but there’s also a mesh flat-like espadrille with a perforated leather body, a delicate silk tote, and some puffy leather sandals that come across more experimental than the Hereu we know and love. 

• Skin’s archive sale is full of pima cotton “chemise” dresses, ribbed, keyhole-neck lounge sets, and quilted robes that could easily double as puffer coats, virtually all under $100 and all primed for a winter of dolefully, but elegantly, traipsing outdoors in what you wore to bed last night. 

• Founder of the eponymous Oakland boutique McMullen, Sherri McMullen, has cleared out her closet for a dramatic sale, also folding in are backroom inventory, on creamy Proenza bustiers ($250 down from $1,490—an over-83% discount, for those who find eroticism in such numbers), flared Regina Pyo trousers, and Cecilie Bahnsen blazers.

• All woven styles at LoQ are 30% off with WOVEN30, with some already-on-sale sandals like a cream flat with an ankle strap brought down to $160 in light of the extra discount—a pair of very Bottega flats are $255 down from $365, too.

• Use RUSBETTERTOGETHER when purchasing two or more of Rus’ knits for 20% off even its newest arrivals—a bouclé polo midi dress with eight buttons down the chest, a giant, fraying scarf that looks like lines of code on a glitching computer screen, a chalky violet alpaca wool “headpiece” that’s a hybrid of hood and bonnet, and more.

• There’s also: Exercise dress evangelists be forewarned—there’s an extra-40%-off-sale, uhm, sale at Outdoor Voices; and the END. mid-season sale brings Jil Sander, KNWLS, and VTMNTS down by up to 70%.

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With contributions from News Editor Em Seely-Katz