153: I've found the dress I want to die in

Nicklas Skovgaard on SSENSE, Arc’teryx city pants, and the Jil Sanders so far leading the FW23 boot rush.

Best of…

pragmatic

One of my favorite sandalsmiths, A.Emery, has introduced a line of RTW that includes this “wrap shirt” that’ll nicely break up a collection of Oxfords; I’ve had several conversations with trustworthy fashion types about La Collection, which I’m learning to be among the great “sensual tailoring” brands of the day—this longline strapless top sums it up for me perfectly; Babaa has stuck again with a pair of red knit trousers that I loved immediately and are now following me around in sponsored ads so persistent they may actually prove successful; the A.P.C. x JW Anderson link up is so seamless and natural that it’s no wonder it resulted in this really good workwear jacket right in step with those shown at Prada SS23; and a few truly excellent, expertly wrought pieces from Arc’teryx’s Veilance line (more city than outdoorsy)—the Turing coat and Cella pants made of nylon ripstop.

romantic

Nicklas Skovgaard is finally on SSENSE (and during the 25% off coupon, no less)—I’ve been waiting for this touchdown since seeing the collection in Copenhagen, and I’m thrilled to see this silk dupion and cotton voile dress listed, absolute ‘80s redux excellence; New York-based Ouer has the eye of some serious industry folk, landing in choice editorials and insider outfit selfies—this draped top and the rest of the brand’s sensitive pieces are highly encouraging of what’s to come; small-batch brand Silphium does delicate and antique fabric pieces well, but it’s these bloomers I saw designer Onea wearing that I keep coming back to; this!! Kritika!! Manchanda!! dress!! to die in, if not to die for—or at least get married in, I implore the brides-to-be reading this; and CSM alum Amber Healy has put out a few lovely tablecloth skirts—not a revolutionary concept, but I think better and more intentionally put together than most.

and accessories for good measure.

The boot riddle of 2023 has yet to be solved, and although these Jil Sanders are lacking the novelty of a new silhouette we’ll ultimately crave for the season’s starring role, their straight cropped shaft, pointed toe, and little heel are closer to what I’m looking for than any other style I’ve considered so far; peep the heel on these Durazzi Milano ballerina horseshoes—is that kind of elegant detail not exactly the kind of thing we should be demanding from designers?; more innerwear than accessory (if that), but this Caro Editions camisole (also eligible for the SSENSE 25% off coupon) would make a lovely layer under v-necks and button-ups; an asymmetric RUS scarf that’s likewise on sale at the brand’s archive event; and I know nothing about the exponentially expanding watch world other than what I like based on looks alone, and this Ferragamo timepiece is exactly that.

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