Magasin’s pop-up newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: Paris Fashion Week, Days 5 + 6.
Itinerary
Oct 3
2p Jude preview — gotta say, they’re beating out all the other new-gen shoe brands as far as desirable silhouettes and luxury fast-tracking goes; good celeb placements, admirable retailers (they’re at DSM), the prices are still reasonable but if they inched up I’d still pay them.
4p Ormaie showroom visit — I always learn so much about making fragrance from my friend, founder Baptiste Bouygues, when I go in for a visit, this time about the vast range of musks both natural and synthetic. The brand launched three new scents that go back to the core of what they do, even paring back their signature architectural bottle to its essential octagonal shape. The new Musc Mirroir employs many new-to-me musks and evolves longest over the day.
6p Husbands visit — I am getting a pair of made-to-measure pants, for which I picked out the cut (a flat-front straight leg) and fabric (a black herringbone medium-weight wool). I was in and out in 25 minutes because I like an efficient buying session, but you could really savor the personalized experience if you wanted. I’ll have my pants in about two months shipped to me in NYC. About $800 all in.
Oct 4
12p Jil Sander store visit — went in hoping to find this one totally thought-interrupting off-shoulder dress I had just seen land on Net-A-Porter, and I did! It has a sculptable wool neckline that you can fold down around the shoulders and a pinched fabric back. Unfortunately for me, it fit absolutely perfectly while also being €4,000. Still, so much else in store that was imminently buyable. I got a simple-but-exactly-right fitted v-neck silk-blend knit that I tried on with a super sexy-super split-side skirt, which I knew at the time if I walked away from it, I’d regret it immensely. Here I am, regretting. Also tried: a jacquard floral shirt and the Oliver Peoples Edition 9 sunglasses from the collab. It would have been very easy and fun to spend $10–15k at Simone Belloti’s Jil Sander in an afternoon.
1p Prada store visit — obligatory stop any time I am in the Detax zone, and I did well! Some killer dresses and skirts in a faux torn and worn-down style they call devoré, but I saw a trench coat right away I needed to assess; lightweight, unlined cotton gabardine with a weathered leather collar and NO VENT, yay (decidedly necessary trench characteristic for me, I’ve realized). Bonus astrakhan cropped pea coat that doesn’t seem to be online just yet (here’s a curly shearling in its place).
2p Celine store visit — it was Michael Ryder ‘80s minimalism this, Michael Rider zany prep that all week, but when I went in to see the current collection, I was drawn to something very un-that-language: this crocheted floor-length dress. Somewhere in the $4k range. Was fun to see the breadth coming out of there right now, and to sashay around the top floor of the Montaigne flagship in this flippy number that bounced around my ankles and wrapped me like a Chinese finger trap. Also, I definitely get the appeal of these box clutches, and seeing the jewelry reminded me that things really do look like this now.
3p Chanel store visit — I got in pretty quickly without an appointment, and found the staff to be accommodating and polite (despite lots of shopper distress I’m hearing out of there). But then again I am not the Chanel customer, so I spared them and me the drama of trying to buy a bag that was there “for display purposes only” or whatever. The Polish SA who came over for seasonal support brought me an insane beaded skirt with a Hawaiian-print lining that struck me as Society Archive-coded. I liked the Ariel mermaid heels and the drop waist dresses, a version of which is already on TRR somehow. The viscose knits were glorious, if you have the kind of money to buy a few and layer them—Chanel only really looks good with Chanel.
4p Dover Street Market — I crossed the city specifically to see Townwear at DSM, which I was put onto by Louis Cheslaw. I found it and put this great attached-layer knit on hold at checkout downstairs while I took a spin around the upper floor. Upstairs, I accidentally bought a Prada nylon skirt and tank set I’d had my eye on online but didn’t see at the Prada flagship earlier. It’s great—deceptively simple in design but cut to crunch, drape, and jut out from your body in such a way. Amid the spontaneity of shopping Prada twice in one day, I left without grabbing the Townwear sweater. My biggest retail regret of the day!
8:30p Simkhai dinner at Red Katz — a pretty sceny dinner with at least two White Lotus cast members and everyone wearing Simkhai, which just opened a pop-up shop at Galeries Lafayette. It’s one of those right-priced brands that’s fun and sexy to wear, plus has an accessory signature (whimsical gold clutches) to remember it by.
Outfit
AM
6397 Elbow V-Neck, $495 / Phoebe Philo Gray Jeans, $1,130 $1,307 / The Row Marlo 12 Tote, $4,900 / Métier Aquilone Ball Charm, $390 / Toteme The Slim Knee-High Boots, $889 $1,593 (low stock; similar from Aeyde, $995)
PM
Simkhai Bowie Collarless Calf Hair Coat, $2,200 / Simkhai Pia Beaded Fringe Clutch, $795 / Jimmy Choo Scarlett 50 Black Nappa Leather Pumps, $1,095 / Déhanche Signet Belt (out of stock; similar in silver, $290)
Today’s was mostly about the real-life shopping that took place, as opposed to the conceptual air of shopping that hangs around during the week. But, two things I’m holding onto from Paris now that I’m officially back home: 1. Jacques Marie Mage works with a gem miner in the American West who opened up an entire turquoise mine especially for one collection from the brand, and 2. Thom Browne designed his entire latest collection because he watched A Bug’s Life on a plane. Cathedrals everywhere…
When I ran into Ava Van Osdol on my way out of the Jude showroom and asked where I should shop, she and I had essentially the same list: Husbands, Rubirosa’s, the Montaigne flagships, the evergreen recs of Dries and Lemaire. She added: the new Rick Owens store in Palais Royale, plus Sabbia Rosa lingerie and the likewise lingerie-minded Kanelle Vintage.
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