Magasin’s pop-up newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: Paris Fashion Week, Days 3 + 4.
Itinerary
Oct 1
11a Dries Van Noten re-see — a major highlight; I met up with Net-A-Porter’s Lydia Zacharis there who says she’s now seen the collection three times (show, showroom, re-see) and gets something new from it each time. I spotted themes like those already being celebrated as the best new / lasting ideas elsewhere across the season / retail (Dario’s poster prints at Versace, layered sheer skirts at Prada, Miu Miu-ish boat shoe laces, Bode-ish fly-ish embellishment, NY’s surfer wave), but it all felt authentically and not derivatively Julian Klausner.
12p Tom Ford re-see — Haider cuts a mean men’s shoe and I hope the croc smoking slipper with the lingerie-scale bow comes in ladies sizes. Elsewhere, I was fixated on the skinny briefcases and outsize top handle bags in what my mind assigned “vacuum cleaner leather”; a thick, pebbled elephant-gray that conjured up a forgotten slice of the 1980s, proving there’s still more to squeeze out of Boom Boom.
1p Thom Browne re-see — amid all the theatrics of the show in NY, you’d be forgiven for having missed some of the finer points of the TB collection, including grasshopper-embroidered gingham. Also, a clue: The maillot-imprinted dress that went down the runway, on Adrianna Lima no less, was foreshadowing the launch of the first women’s swimwear from the brand, which will itself be trompe l’oeil driven.
3:30p Cecilie Bahnsen show — included some very clever inside-outside bra styling that made me think about the exposed bralette as the next boxers-above-the-waistband thing. I left with a new urgency to get these organza, embellished Bermudas.
4:30p LESSE facial at Le Bon Marche — LESSE is a very French skincare brand, at heart, I realized when getting the lymphatic facial of a lifetime; it’s ultra-natural, beautifully designed and formulated, and fits into a greater lifestyle of health and beauty.
7p RIC showroom cocktail
8:30p Dinner at Chez Janou
Oct 2
1p Issey Miyake show — never not moved by this show and its tradition of leveraging dance to establish a mood for its clothes; the parachuting fabric reams that opened paid off with the billowing coats that closed it.
2p Polo Ralph Lauren presentation — always the best styling inspiration of the week, if not the month. More on this from me soon!
8p Ralph Lauren cocktail at Ralph’s Paris
9p Chandelier cocktail at Chateau Voltaire
Outfit
AM
High Sport Kurt Shirt, $840 / Kallmeyer Enzo Pant in Stretch Knit Suiting, $382 $545 / Chanel Opera Flats, $1,388 / Hunting Season The Large Soft Clutch in Nappa, $675 / Maximum Henry Wide Standard Belt, $160 / Polo Sport Oval Sunglasses, $129
PM
Nour Hammour Dalma Menswear Bomber, $1,540 / J.Crew Gwen Lace-Trim Skirt, $84 $118 / Róhe Pankou Closure Silk Top, $1,010 / Jimmy Choo Scarlett 50 Heels, $1,095
Those resin necklaces at The Row were designed by Line Vautrin in a proprietary material called talosel, developed by her in the 1950s (every subsequent Row collection gets increasingly arts-and-crafts); they were sourced for the runway by Mon Vintage. Since bags are more expensive than ever, why not spend $2,870 on a violet talosel link bracelet instead?
Some other The Row shopping goss to get out of the way: Our girl EMILY DAWN LONG was at the store checking out a small Terrasse Bag when in walks David Beckham and…basically tells her to buy it; and I have to report that the Paris store is also selling €490 leather-wrapped carabiners that are admittedly tempting.
Red lipstick queen Emily Bonita’s signature shade is actually two products stacked—MAC Lady Danger and Chanel Rouge Allure Indépendante.
Spotted a few dozen Foscarini Caboche pendants outfitting the Thom Browne building, very much costume jewelry for hallways.
And yet more beauty news: Lara Worthington’s new (very cool-looking) brand Ommage launched this week at Dover Street Market’s Parfums store here in Paris. I’m not a huge makeup person, nor do I really fuss with tools when I could just as easily use my fingers to apply, but I sense this Buffer Brush from the line is about to be something of a status object.
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