I am chicken typing today's send from the Mary Celeste, sandwiched between an embargo and a cocktail party for a shoe (interiors people love to laugh that they throw dinners for appliances, but we're just as ridiculous when you think about it).
Yes, I am in Paris, but am I even in Paris if it isn’t Reporting Live! official? What I can say is that I’ve already seen plenty of Magasin-y, off-the-beaten-path gems and engaged in several High Touch behaviors that some would relish and others…repulse!
All media in the Substack age boils down to scoops, gossip, and “diets”—consumption of any kind—and as a good steward of the platform, I'll have all three for you beginning tomorrow.
Khaite’s trunkshow for SS27 just launched on Moda Operandi, putting some dollars-and-cents behind the runway we just saw at NYFW: the bra tops are nearly $1,200, and fully embroidered dresses like the Domina are $48k. Khaite continues to toe the line between luxury and Pavlovian frivolity, and while brilliant, this very inflation-respondent trunkshow plants a foot in the latter area.
Big things are happening over at La Garçonne. First, the multibrand retailer announces its first in-house line, _Bare, a discerning, precise collection of tailored separates like the wide-legged wool flannel pants and merino wool bomber cardigan. To round it all out, La Garçonne also announces a collaboration with Scottish knitwear brand Begg, a suite of responsible cashmere (as in made from upcycled materials) sweaters, like the anthracite-flecked crewneck Helen.
Australian brand Acci launches their first womenswear collection, a meeting point between “heritage and contemporary,” to quote founder Lauren Acciarito’s brand blurb. Inspired by her Italian heritage and contemporary relationship to clothing via her travels abroad in London and the Western-Euro-elsewhere, this collection rather excellently remains modern while touching on some of the scarier nostalgic trends, like shoulder pads in the Siena dress and asymmetrical handkerchief-hem skirts like the Zia.
Danish jewelry brand Trine Tuxen and PR dame-slash-perennial kind soul Pirrie Wright announce ‘Prarure,’ a limited capsule of home objects and jewelry. Much of the collection is based on a layered square shape, like the Art Deco-nostalgic Coupole stud. There’s also a cabochon mirror and a lighter case.
Made-to-order maestro Shereen Mohammad comes to us on this humble fall day bearing menthe-green gifts. From her NYC quarters, she gives us the Bebe and Roya—sleek Princess Diana-type boatneck silk gowns in the palest of mint shades, as well as the Maryam, a grass-green-trimmed kaftan inspired by Moroccan silhouettes.
There’s also: The return of the Fruity Booty pink jugs tee in honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month; a highly structured (and subtly accessorized) Lisa Yang AW26 collection; the arrival of some truly fabulous goat leather pieces from Arma (like the Jean pants) at MyTheresa; the second drop from &Daughter AW26, including some wonderful jewel toned iterations of the Innes sweater; and the latest day diamonds collection from Jessica McCormack, all about bows.
Men’s releases
The Giuliva Heritage FW26 collection is a veritable feast of men’s outerwear, the kind of stuff that’s worthy of cigar smoking and heavy scotch drinking. Even the trousers (naturally, the smoking pair in wool blend twill) stand out against the coat-blazer backdrops provided by such pieces as the double breasted Alexander coat and Stefano blazer in deep navy wool.
Double RL is perhaps the most exciting Ralph Lauren subdivision, and FW26 is no exception. Nearly everything feels boyfriend-appropriate, in the sense that you gift it and then repeatedly borrow from his closet—the sheepskin overshirt and cable wool-blend sweater, especially.
Some new FW26 drops from Bottega Veneta menswear just hit Mr. Porter, and much of it is PE-bro bait. This season, we’ve gone from quarter zip to half-zip…interesting. Styled with straight leg jeans and Intrecciato loafers, one can’t help but postulate that fashion is getting more tech-y rather than the other way around.
Home releases
Baisi Guadagnino’s collection for Zara Home is the teak-y amalgam of ’80s postmodern Italian lacquer (the Quibit stool) and quirkier Scandi-MCM (the Sacred Spring table…which is also close to $15k). Jury’s out on how many people with that kind of disposable income are going to go to Zara for their furniture, but collaborating with the designer on these home furnishings is definitely…a choice.
Jenni Kayne Home joins forces with Tyler Thomas and Mike Moser on a timeless-luxury collection of lived-in feeling interior pieces, including throws and a buttercream-like custom color of the beloved Bristol rug.
Meet the Loquat pendant lamp by Of Enso, now available at Claude Home. The piece is a yellow, handpainted silk cube lamp with a hand-patinated ceiling plate, so each unit is unique. This is the kind of lamp you use for decoration in addition to effusing light.
There’s also: A Casa Paulista, a new publication by Bossa all about the opening of the firm’s new gallery in Sao Paolo, now available for pre-order; and Away’s release of Series 3, a hardware update of the brand’s previous line of luggage.
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I thought La Garçonne had an in-house line already (La Garçonne Moderne) - looks nice tho!