Magasin’s pop-up newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: New York Fashion Week, Day 7.
Itinerary
10a Heirlome show — inaugural runway for the Latin-run, artisan-driven brand; refined, high-end stuff but not generic—the piles upon piles of various weaving techniques provide perspective to pieces like silk cummerbunds and collared shirts. - LR
11a Advisry show — this feels like the first season designer Keith Herron really went from the “fun knits” brand to a full fashion concept. The show was outlined in three acts each based on inflection points in Black American history, reflected in the evolving mood of the outerwear: the croc-embossed straightjackets were a major standout. - MK
11:30a Sloan presentation — designer Julia Sloan explained that SS27 takes the brand’s human-led design ethos to its sun-tired extreme—from the hand-crocheted vest tanks and lightweight one-shoulder sheath dresses to the bare feet and messy hair styling. - MK
2p 6397 show — designer Stella Ishii accurately captured the unfazed-yet-unhardened New Yorkers in her circles, dressing up her characters in clothes they inspired and clothes they’ll eventually, happily buy. There’s a lot of love for this brand right now. The right price, a ton of soul and humanity, wearable stuff. I likened it to my seatmate to “New York’s Auralee.” - LR
5p Thom Browne show — there’s NYFW, and then there’s Thom Browne, in a lane of its own. If you exist outside of the Browne-iverse, it’s excusable to forget about it away from the twice-yearly Broadway-tier productions it puts on, but every time that happens, I’m reminded how good of a suit TB can cut, and how fun it would be to be inside many layers of its tweeds and poplins, like an impressive, insect-based storybook figure. - LR
7p How Long Gone “The Goneies” awards show — a real who’s who of Straight Guys in Media, a funny vibe shift after a week of runway shows. I stuck around long enough to watch Blondshell perform and see Mary Beth Barone and Mark Ronson accept awards for “It Girl of the Year” and “Best Dressed Man or Woman,” respectively. Charli xcx won “Album of the Year” and thanked the boys via video message since she was about to play a second sold-out show at Barclays Center in less than an hour—which inspired me to buy a last-minute ticket and book it to the train with Brynn Wallner in order to make it in time. - AV
LR: Laura Reilly, AV: Alyssa Vingan, MK: Maya Kotomori
Outfit
AM
Alex Mill Montmartre V Neck Sweater in Cashmere, $320 / Prada SS 2023 Grey Creased Logo Skirt (similar, $636) / Versace Vivian Shoulder Bag, $1,293 $3,000 / Acne Studios 60 Patent Leather Sandals, $730 / Polo Sport Oval Sunglasses, $160
PM
Lauren Manoogian Knit Dress (similar from Kallmeyer, $119 $595) / Toteme Clutch, coming soon (similar, $1,490) / Martiniano Party Heel, $580 / Polo Sport Oval Sunglasses, $160
I ran into Akari Endo-Gaut at the tail end of the Chan Luu presentation (which I just missed) at Marcel, the restaurant at Sotheby’s that I also visited earlier in the week for Nordstrom’s fall campaign cocktail. She’d DMed me after my first stop in when I posted jewelry styled in a glass case, twirled around a fork and resting on a beautiful ceramic plate. Akari is one of those behind-the-scenes creative power players who is secretly in charge of the way the best-looking things look. She’d been working with Roman and Williams Guild on Marcel for six years before it opened, developing with a centuries-old porcelain producer in Japan the ceramic wares that I had mistaken for Ginori. She says the silverware “almost broke her” they were so complex to make. Expect a deeper dive with her on this project here sometime, we scarcely scratched the surface during our in-passing chat of all the object obsessiveness that makes the place what it is: an instant NY icon.
Alex Mill’s cashmere collection drops today, and I wore my new v-neck (above) the moment I got it—I think it looks so Mrs. Prada. Right away, Calvin Klein’s Alix Rutsey said it was “a very good sweater!” I am ready to embrace all that a cashmere drop represents: my v-neck an evolution of easy, one-thing dressing, and the long-sleeve polo on my to-get list an invitation for collar layering.
The Nike Moons that went down the runway with 6397’s new collection were a really good match. Also featured, toe shoes tucked into heeled flip-flops. Feels kind of Substack-y to me?
Just to say, now that the week is done, thank you to my Saltair AHA deodorant for rolling on clear and not damaging my clothes, plus for keeping me very fresh over some very long days. You the MVP.
– LR
I’m so glad that my lifelong fixation with surfer girl style is being validated by Big Fashion this year. The summer gave us a killer Miaou x Roxy collaboration and surfboards on the Louis Vuitton men’s runway beneath a giant wave (shout-out fellow Virginia Beach native, Pharrell). This week, we got Hawaiian prints and swimsuits peeking out from looks at Emily Dawn Long, 6397, and The Society Archive’s debut shows, and Made Some Sportswear popped up to bring its popular California board shorts to NYFW. The vintage Sex Wax long-sleeve t-shirt I bought on eBay recently is going to get a lot of milage this fall.
– AV
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obsessed with this jewelery for dinner display
Haven't seen anyone observe yet that Alex Mill and J.Crew are both very clearly ripping off Rubirosa's technicolor cashmere sweater shapes this fall (and the vintage scripted branding alongside)!