Magasin’s pop-up newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: New York Fashion Week, Day 4.
Itinerary
12p Conner Ives show at The Pool — a big to-do sponsored by ShopMy, a link-up everyone was talking about. Did they ask him to relocate his runway from London? What do the financials of the partnership look like? They’ve got Seagram money. I’m reflecting on the position they’ve found themselves in wherein they could make collaborations with other on-platform brands like Jimmy Choo happen (they facilitated an existing collab in this case, but it would be Anna Wintour territory). The collection was sexy and fun in a young way, lots of his signature Chinoiserie and the next gen of his “Protect the Dolls” tee, worn by Hari Nef, that read “Bring Back Shame.” - LR
1p Emily Dawn Long “The Crack of Dawn” premier — in her film, and in her orbit, is a deadly combination of pop culture’s most chache’d names (Meadow Walker) and rising talent with explosive potential (Sydney Lemmon) for whom a big commercial label would cash all the way out. In Emily’s case, they want a piece of her. It’s magnetic to find someone who is allergic to rehashing outside ideas and can actually call themselves a world-builder (just look at the physical world she’s built). I popped by the studio in the days before the screening and can say that wearing the clothes feels great: They’ll give you all sorts of ideas for parties you want to go to and clever, charming conversations you’ll have in them. - LR
3p Tibi show — brought us men in printed silk shorts. Who could resist that? - LR
7p Khaite show — a friend of mine whose (young) daughter is a model and usually walks the show told me earlier in the day that it was a “sexy collection” so they were skipping this season with her. And it was sexy! In a more grown-up way compared to Conner, and not in the way editors talk about “fashion reclaiming sex” or whatever. Bras out, (tasteful) off-the-shelf racks, undone hook-and-eye closures, bed head. Mixed in with some unexpected Comme des Garçons / Simone Rocha babydoll flavor. - LR
9p Emily Dawn Long party — Highsnobiety and EDL took over the Chinatown Family Fun Center arcade for some boozy, late-night fun and games. Dance Dance Revolution and Mario Kart were in high demand, as were the prizes (a teddy bear wearing a Spoiled Boys t-shirt, specifically) and the snacks from Mission Chinese Food down the street. - AV
LR: Laura Reilly, AV: Alyssa Vingan, MK: Maya Kotomori
Outfit
AM
Conner Ives Sequin Dress (similar, $850) / Claudia Twist Classic Long Sleeve Shirt, $200 / The Row Peggy Leather Clutch, $2,900 / Jimmy Choo Scarlett 50 Pumps, $1,050 / Polo Sport Oval Sunglasses, $103 $166
Midday
Miu Miu Double-Breasted Short-Sleeved Shirt, $1,372 $1,600 / Emily Dawn Long Skirt, coming soon / The Row Peggy Leather Clutch, $2,900 / Jimmy Choo Scarlett 50 Pumps, $1,050 / Polo Sport Oval Sunglasses, $103 $166
PM
Khaite Yasmina Top, $2,400 / Colleen Allen Cotton Drawstring Pant, $549 $790 / Khaite Donna Evening Clutch, $2,680 / Khaite Eve Pump, $1,200
After Tibi, which was held at the Starrett Lehigh Building on the west side, I had the same idea as a bunch of other guests, it turns out, in stopping into what I’ve heard of as “the best thrift store in New York.” It’s the City Opera Thrift Shop where all of the New York City Opera costumes go to retire. It’s also a place to pick up men’s Armani suits, ‘90s leather pumps, and interiors objects that look like estate spoils from a Jacques Grange living room.
I sat next to Laurel Pantin at a show (Substackers section), and she put me onto Yana Matkivski, a brand she’s excited to buy for her LA store Early IRL. A lot of double-face satin shantung and some Chinoiserie, like we’re seeing more and more widely, plus some more dramatic options like chiffon gowns with hoods. She’s already a celebrity stylist get, diversifying the sexy-sophisticated wardrobes of Kaia, Anya, etc. The prices are not too bad at all.
Worth stating that the only sunglasses I’m seeing this week are all manner of Thistles and the Polo Sport pair I’ve been wearing exclusively since I got them at the beginning of summer. Every color combo of the latter has a die hard wearer; there is a personality type associated with the yellow frame versus the tortoiseshell versus the all-black.
The cig report from Khaite is that they’ve switched from the branded “Marlboro” boxes with real Marlboros inside to serving Capris on trays outside of the show (the branded mini Modelos stayed). I took a cig from their designated professional lighter to see if they had managed to sneak their logo onto the curve of the cigarette itself. Not yet, but I imagine we’re about a season or two away from seeing that happen.
- LR
Now that EDL’s short film has premiered, we’re confident saying that crack is so back. While hers is the most crack-forward collection we’ve seen thus far this season, there have been hints of it throughout the week (a men’s look at Eckhaus Latta, peeking out of low-slung skirts at Kate Walz) and some prominent placements in FW26 editorial, including The New Yorker and Dazed. I’ve already had some hilarious conversations about what you can / should do if you have a “short” crack but want to participate in this particular style—at the J.Crew party with producer Ariella Starkman and deep in the group chat with Brynn Wallner, for starters. Perhaps we can get some answers for you and report them out on High Touch…
In a week of buzzy collaborations, I spotted my first pair of Celine Reeboks in the wild last night on Nordstrom’s Men’s Fashion Director Jian Deleon (just days after we discussed how difficult it would be to acquire Supreme x A.Presse—he ended up getting some himself after all), who dominated the DDR machine while wearing the sneakers. A great endorsement for the style’s comfort and sports performance.
- AV
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ok but where can I buy the bring back shame t b/c i need it urgently
LR the second look w the Miu Miu & EDL is sickety sick. I’m wondering about the JChoo pumps & if they’re blistering u, & if u compared to the similar/higher vamp Prada pointy lace ups? Something babyfeet spray will ward off or just collateral damage?? I’m in LA & too faded by the humidity to venture out for any try ons
Great, wry coverage as ever xo