459: PFW Days 6 + 7 / Breaking shoe news
Power pump, a Fortuny fortune, golden smokes.
Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: Paris Fashion Week, Days 6 + 7.
Weather report
53ºF / 11º C — weather can’t improve from this…so obviously I’m writing this on a train headed to lows of 22ºF. Speak to you next time from Sils Maria, Switzerland xx
Itinerary
Mar 7
12p Rescha showroom
1p Cristaseya archive sale — happening at the same time as the Fane sample sale, and I saw some girls leafing through knits with their new bags in tow. I bought a polo-collar sweater, linen trousers (worn below), and a cashmere turtleneck for Nir for about €200 apiece.
3p Clarins facial at Hotel Brach — my second facial of the week because life is good! While New York dominates at techy facials with tools updated by the season, Paris excels at touch as technology, massage-driven regimens.
4p Turn Paris collection preview — debuted its in-house line, a tad more than basics to pair with their vintage offering (I liked a pair of pastel ribbed knickers with the suggested styling of a sheer Dries skirt).
5p Drinks at Chateau Voltaire
6p Nordstrom Celebrates 125 Years at Lafayette’s Restaurant
7:30p Dinner at Au Passage
Mar 8
10a L’appartament by Merci C’est Vintage
1p Jude showroom — new season is peeptoe galore.
1:30p Christen store visit — swung by on day two of operation after missing the opening the day prior. A great, raw space fitting of the brand’s edgy outlook. Also introduced the newest season, yet to hit ecomm, bit which includes a verrry good python boot for the narrowest of calves.
2p Loewe resee — I heard from their PR that the keystone inflatable coats from the new collection can (and should) be filled by a custom-designed porcelain air pump that costs more than your average fashion collector would spend to refill the tires on their bike.
4p Nour Hammour showroom — not shown at the preview, but I heard that bags are coming. And winter layering pieces like knits, too. I think most brands who launch bags don’t need to, but Nour’s will get eaten up.
5p Grey’s Studio showroom — missed the collection in NY but thrilled to finally see the chenille gown in person. A stunna!
8p Becky Malinsky + Plum Sykes Giuliva Heritage dinner at Sant Ambroeus
some skips
Outfit rundown
AM
J.Crew 2025 Rollneck Sweater, $98 / Jamie Haller The Weekend Striped Button-Front Shirt, $495 / Cristaseya Double Pleated Wide Trousers, $1,017 / Maximum Henry Standard Wide Belt, $160 / The Row Dalia Bag (on resale, $1,535) / Jacques Marie Mage Vendome Sunglasses (on resale, $1,095) / Chanel Patent Moccasins (on resale, $1,264)
AM
Tibi Washable Cashmere Easy V-Neck Sweater, $565 / Sentô Button-Down Shirt, $220 / Cristaseya Linen Pants (similar on resale, $210) / L’Artigiana Viareggina Loafers (similar from Scarosso, $420) / Alaïa Studded Le Teckel Bag, $3,390
PM
Phoebe Philo Shrunk Bomber, $6,300 / Celine Striped Button Down (on resale, $177) / Olga Basha Petra Jeans, $490 / Jude Date Cutout Leather Mules, $590
Shopping gossip
Potentially the most epic Fortuny lamp sighting to date at Nour Hammour’s new permanent showroom on Rue Pierre Charon. A Cesendello Cascade glass lamp chandelier with 33 spiraling shades that costs around $40,000 off the shelf. Individual cesendellos are a more approachable $1,500 and are great doorway accents.
Apparently I was the one to break the news of Jude’s launch several PFW Report Backs ago—their team confirmed it at the preview. I also was first to report on the opening of the Christen store on Rue de la Paix upon seeing the signage erected last season. In case you need any more of a reason to trust me with your upcoming shoe shopping intel, I’ll say that By Far, one of the OG “accessible luxury” footwear operations of the 20teens to 2020s, has a rebrand coming down the line. Watch this space.
Relatedly, the founder of Jude also designs a furniture brand that outfitted the showroom this season. I’ve known about Project 213A for some time now and even have one of its Maria vessels, but am just now clicking that Jurgita Dileviciute is the connective tissue between the two brands. Her furniture project has also done design for Le Doyenné inn and restaurant, which I visited last summer.
Possibly the chicest giveaway I’ve ever picked up from a dinner: this gold-plated match box from Giuliva Heritage. A lighter is always going to be easier, but no one has this. Excellent gift, and apparently hard to get one’s hands on as it’s currently only available for pre-order.
Also at said dinner, Kelly Rutherford was wearing a great velvet shawl-collar blazer by a brand none of us at the table had ever heard of (rare! a challenge!): Bleis Madrid. She had kept the tag in her pocket because she knew someone would ask, what a queen. Her exact jacket doesn’t seem to be in stock currently, but the prices across the board are excellent—under $500 for comparable styles.
A final spot of shopping on my last day of Paris…I struck out at Lemaire (</3) and on a whim went into Dover Street Market where I never have any luck. After telling anyone who’d listen all week how I didn’t like any of my leather jackets, I allowed myself to try on Phoebe Philo’s Shrunk Bomber. It was expensive…very expensive (although much cheaper than in the States at €4,500, especially after detax)…but it didn’t feel like a pill to swallow the way my other high-budget temptations of the week had. Chanel’s new tweed shopping bag (at €6,200) was unavailable, and I was relieved. And the vintage Hermés at Preclothed (at €2,700) didn’t have the magnetism to make me pull me wallet out of my bag. The Phoebe jacket was like…an obviously correct choice, which changed the way spending the money felt.
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Love it Laura!