451: NYFW Day 3 / "Steal it, I'll replace it"
The next Brunello, good glassware, retail Hunger Games.
Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: New York Fashion Week, Day 3.
Weather report
31ºF / 0º C — melting but not fast enough!
Itinerary
Feb 12
11a TWP show
12p Attersee preview — I think Isabelle might be building the next Brunello Cucinelli. Her educated, successful fandom—of all ages—reminds me of the women in my mother’s generation who discovered the Italian clothier in their earlier years and use is as the benchmark by which they compare all other brands. As for this collection, I’m in awe of a silver beaded skirt set that looks like shimmering pony hair.
1p Maria McManus presentation
2:30p Colleen Allen preview — saying that it’s classic Colleen, but more wearable is saying too little. This feels big! Like, maybe not immediately, but Colleen is going to be a commercial success as well as a critical one. We’re all happy about her LVMH nom, but something in the merchandising (not over-merched) clicked in this collection, and I am more certain than ever it has legs to stand up on in the retail Hunger Games.
3p Emily Dawn Long pickup — have a proper preview scheduled for next week, but swung by to collect a lucky charm for EDL’s big disco tonight.
4p Rúadh preview at The Twenty Two — born a denim brand but growing into more: more suiting, more opinionated outerwear, truer to its Scottish roots (I need to see about a brilliant, nearly black-on-black argyle silk).
5p Versace x Cultured Magazine cocktail
6:30p Gabriella Khalil & Sarah Harris Cocktail for Polomi
6:30p Jeff Koons x Stella McCartney launch party at Dover Street Market — Jeff only gets out of bed for metaphysical experiences, he said in the Q&A portion of the evening; oh, and Debbie Harry was there. - Maya Kotomori
7p MyTheresa cocktail at Temple Bar — a fashion week tradition.
8p Louis Vuitton cocktail at Obvio — celebrating the launch of the Express Bag.
some skips
Outfit rundown
AM
Lemaire Black Short Duffle Coat, $1,145 $1,590 / Interior The Nicola Pants, $224 $560 / Métier Private Eye Leather Tote, $5,250 / Phoebe Philo Gathered Flat, $890
PM
In House Blazer, Dress, and Hat, coming soon / Savette Small Florence Hobo, $1,490 / Vintage Manolo Blahnik Mules (similar, $292)
Shopping gossip
I won’t say anything about the collection itself until I go for my proper appointment next week, but I got a good look at Emily Dawn Long’s new “boy’s room,” which she opened down the hall from her studio on Chrystie. She tells me she designed it “for my boys, with pieces from my boys.” That’s a pendant light and ceramic inlay table by Bennet Schlesinger; a painting by Joe Henry Baker that he literally instructed her to hoist off the wall from Gem Home (“steal it, I’ll replace it”); her rug doctor Xavier (xavier@costikyan.com), who custom fitted a Nordic Knots 10x14 Grand Rug in Pale Green to sit within the jutting edges of the room; and Adam at Greenpoint Framer who mounted all of her iconic tees in glass displays. She also thanks her studio porter Chuck for all his help setting it up.
It was a good glassware day and I did the requisite asking of receipts for you. At Attersee, a very deco drinking glass I was told was Ann Demeulemeester for Serax, called the Frances glass (I ordered a set of eight this morning). Later, at the Rúadh preview at a suite in The Twenty Two, the most dainty champagne flute, just enough for a few sweet sips. I was told by a client relations manager at the club they were from Lemonsoda, but either the flutes are from another vendor than the rest of their glassware, but I couldn’t find them on the site. Google Image search says they might be these from The Wine Savant / Specialty Food Source.
I can’t prove it, but I suspect Attersee sourced a particular fabric—inspired by the static of old TVs—from the same mill used by Phoebe Philo. I have this pair of Phoebe jeans and by the sight and touch of them, I would swear it matched Attersee’s new sculpted, tailored separates.
A great military jacket sighting at the Louis Vuitton cocktail, worn by Sarah Daoui. I tried to extract its genesis (old LV? Vintage Marc?), but apparently it was an eBay find sourced by her sister. Fine! Keep your secrets! I love that brocade is back.
Serax, Lemonsoda, Attersee, vintage
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Could be Zara? Great jacket https://www.zara.com/us/en/zw-collection-limited-edition-jacquard-cropped-jacket-p02292015.html?v1=520181806
Are the champagne flutes also Ann Demeulemeester for Serax? https://us.serax.com/products/champagne-glass-transparent-grace