444: PMW Days 5 + 6 / Who is “The Professor” of fashion week?
Moon sleeves, modified cuts, Louis clocking out.
Welcome to Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we go on the ground to suss out hot shopping gossip from scenes of interest: Paris Men’s Week, Days 5+6.
Weather report
47ºF / 8º C — Harmless showers.
Itinerary
Saturday, January 24th
10a Kiko Kostadinov show
12.30 MAN-TLE appt — black sheep are normally cast away from the flock and seen as a contaminating stain; Aida and Larz found a farm that gathers those lovable rejects, and now stunning cardigans come from that wool. Lucky us!
2p Kaptain Sunshine appt
3p Luke Derrick appt
5p Drink with Camisas Manolo — Manuel designed the shirts that were just worn in Soshiotsuki’s AW26 show.
6p SONO appt — co-founder Simon Homes, formerly of Lemaire and The Row, is now focused entirely on sustainable and soft tailoring designed to last decades. Among the lucky few fortunate to try it on, the coat in slide two is one of this week’s most talked about new arrivals.
7p Studio Nicholson event — partially celebrating a new collaborative Perfumer H. scent, Soap.
8p Kennedy magazine issue launch at Lady White Co.
Sunday, January 25th
10a Ssstein show — I’m almost certain the female models were wearing Crockett and Jones’ Elise loafer.
11a Mfpen appt
12p Anatomica store visit — I’ll go back, but maybe not the retail experience for everyone…read a Google review or two first if you’re venturing. I hear Moulded Shoe in NY is a less confrontational venue to discover whether Alden’s rarer ‘Modified Last’ is more right for your foot…
1p Veilance appt — new softer colors and quieter designs make the line far more wearable with relaxed tailoring.
2.30p De Dam Foundation appt — Korean elegance, roomier Dutch cuts—a marriage of founder John Ro’s birth place and eventual landing place.
3.30p Meeting with Sanderlak
5p TEKLA appt — its first holiday bedding collection—think Christmassy red and green checks—is coming.
6p Hot chocolate with Andreas Murkudis and Marie Trier at Café de Flore
8p Dinner with Nitty Gritty’s Hampus von Hauswolff and Eric Nordstedt — ran into Christoffer Lundman, now on the other side of a glowing New York Times spotlight.
Shopping gossip
A few weeks ago, I asked the legendary Andreas Murkudis and his buying colleague Marie Trier if they’d be able to meet me while in Paris. I wanted to make some discoveries beyond my usual comfort zone, and I’ve long viewed Andreas’ eponymous shop as one that operates on a higher plane. The pair gave their blessing for me to pass on the names of current staff and customer favorites: Marsèll, Jacqueline Rabun jewelry, Michael Anastassiades lighting, Stefanie Schneider jewelry, and Boboutic—a small luxury knit-and-stitch maker out of Florence, now in its 25th year.
Unexpectedly, Andreas’ most recent purchases for himself while out in the world were from three designers that regular readers will know are among my most-loved: Gabriella Coll Garments, a discovery he made at Mouki Mou Athens; a suit from Kaptain Sunshine; and six (!) sweaters from Batoner. And this is a man who, as Marie says, “never shops.”
Mfpen has a new, closer trouser—“The Modified Cut”—which wears like an ever-so-slightly-slim straight leg. (And it will also be arriving in a spongy jumbo corduroy.) Also on its way: An already broken-in, zero-shine penny loafer that might just be my pathway back to the style.
Left: Mfpen's penny loafer, right: Ssstein models in Crockett and Jones Moon-shaped sleeves—those that follow the natural curve of your arm, rather than pretending one’s arm naturally falls in a straight line—are showing up on coat designs from a range of great minds; Salon C. Lundman, De Dam Foundation, and the refreshed Arc’teryx Veilance line, now helmed by the thoughtful Ben Stubbington (who formerly led men’s at Theory, Lululemon, and Calvin Klein sportswear.)
There is apparently a Japanese buyer here known to many as “The Professor,” who quietly and systematically tries on every item in every collection that he sees.
The Weeknd was recently spotted beaming in a MAN-TLE jacket. Speaking of, another Lady White Co. collaboration is coming, but this time it will apply LWC’s jersey expertise to a roomier, longer MAN-TLE silhouette (below).
Folks from both A.Presse and Kaptain Sunshine both chose, separately, to enjoy some pasta at Restaurant Passerini on Friday night. Glowing reviews.
Everyone’s talking about a new Instagram reels page that reviews how well shirts from cool brands are actually made.
One last notable PMW character: This guy apparently collects rare Mephisto Matches.
And finally, Prada’s new sneaker is being roundly rejected by fans (see IG comments) of rising skate-inspired casual shoe brand Village PM.
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Can attest that Boboutic is beautiful. I have a knit coat and a knit dress from their FW 24 collection I bought at Conceptica in Lisbon.
Your report from Paris Men's Week was so insightful, especially the spotlight on SONO and their sustainable approach. Do you see this focus on lasting design as a major trend picking up across other collections?