412: A dream kitchen design exercise for New York’s 'It' chefs

And illustrators you should be commissioning.

Welcome to Magasin Interiors. In a dedicated monthly send, Xavier Donnelly shares his latest on-the-ground intel, dives deep into a timely interiors topic, and pulls together a useful edit of resources from his vast network.

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First up…

• October was a big month for design-related openings…In Long Island City, the design gallery Somerset House celebrated a beautifully textured showroom for new and antique furniture, open by appointment.

• In Brooklyn, Sixpenny (makers of some very chic slipcovered sofas) debuted a new collection of boldly patterned furniture in their new moody loft showroom.

• In Meatpacking, a new gallery called K’ab Juun opened, showcasing the latest of Mexican design.

• Meanwhile, on the Upper East Side, the home goods store Big Night continues to expand its retail footprint with a new shop at Lex and 73rd (which is turning into a mini design district). They stock a wide range of Sophie Lou Jacobsen glassware, which I plan to gift frequently this season.

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What kitchens do New York chefs dream of?

There is perhaps no space in the home that elicits as much lust and longing as the kitchen, a functional zone that has, since the mid-century, become increasingly the centerpiece of residential architecture. Domestic celebrities like Ina and Martha turned real home kitchens into set pieces, while Nancy Meyers built faux set pieces of kitchens that existed only on an aspirational plane.

As a result, kitchens today bear a heavy burden: They must telegraph domestic prowess and showcase status and wealth, often while also serving as living rooms and dining rooms; somehow, they must also be the place where you cook. Almost nobody has the kitchen they really want, and most of us have kitchens that are bearable or basically functional, much less spaces we actually like. It’s a tad comforting to know that even the brightest stars in the culinary universe aren’t in possession of that elusive kitchen-in-the-sky, and that the proprietors of that impossible-to-get-into restaurant or authors of your most used cookbook still dream along with the rest of us.

To tap into these fantasies, I called on six of New York’s most talented chefs and restaurateurs and asked them a simple question: What’s your dream kitchen? As with any good dream, the answers had no perfect reference image nor clear visions that could be captured by a moodboard, so I decided to sketch each one out based on a written description and what I knew about the person.

Andy Baraghani, chef and author (of my most used cookbook)

On his dream kitchen: I’ve cooked in a lot of kitchens, but nothing teaches you what works at home like living through two renovations in four years. My dream kitchen swings between two moods: either all stainless steel, like a clean, indestructible restaurant line; or earthy and worn-in—a European countryside kitchen with heavy wood or tile counters and plenty of well-aged pans hanging within reach.

What he’s buying for it: A Zojirushi rice cooker, a kitchen must-have; this Veark cutting board (for citrus and fish); and his favorite chef’s knife.

Ryan Bartlow & Davitta Niakani-Bartlow, chef & proprietors of Ernesto’s and Bartolo

On their dream kitchen: As a chef, Ryan naturally has strong opinions, but as the designer, I (Davitta) like to think the final say is mine. For both of us, form and functionality are the most important in any room but especially the kitchen — and Plain English cabinetry perfectly strikes that balance. Linen-lined drawers hold onions, potatoes, and garlic, and glass-fronted cupboards softened with pleated printed fabrics reflect the light of the passing day.

I’ve always been drawn to the warmth of old country cottages across Europe—homes filled with texture, patina, and charm. Our dream kitchen begins with a proper mudroom leading to a larder and pantry, followed by a butler’s pantry that doubles as a wet bar. Persian and other antique rugs cover every pathway. Cookbooks stacked in every corner. We want stone floors that climb the walls, a large hearth with a GrillWorks grill, and an island and counters topped with richly colored stone and wood. Then the ultimate: an AGA stove — the centerpiece of any true country kitchen.

What they’re buying for it: Pieces from Staub (like this classic dutch oven) and Match (a gorgeous footed tureen here), a large Boos block cutting board, and this go-to knife from Korin.

Annie Shi, proprietor of Lei Wine Bar, King, and Jupiter

On her dream kitchen: Being in the restaurant industry means I can’t help but appreciate the efficiency of a professional kitchen. Simultaneously, I’m a vintage magpie, and I love kitchens that look like they’re lived in and loved. My ideal kitchen mixes stainless steel with beautiful millwork and some seriously color saturated tiles. I want as much natural light and prep space as possible; growing up, the kitchen was the heart of my home, and our entire family would gather around the table to make dumplings from scratch, which is an assembly line production that requires at least three pairs of hands. Now that I have two young kids at home, this is still the case! And when it comes to the pantry, I think restaurants have it figured out—you want it laid out neatly, because I will never remember what is tucked deep into a cabinet or drawer.

What she’s buying for it: A Pinch Posent pendant light—flattering lighting in the kitchen is underrated! A few of these over an island or even over the sink would be so chic.The Frama rivet shelf—the sexiest stainless steel shelf out there. Mise bowls: practical and easy to throw in the dishwasher. My husband, ever the perfectionist, likes to have everything chopped and measured in these little bowls before he starts his cooking/baking. BOBO glasses—what we use at Lei. I’m over the towering wine glass! David Mellor cutlery in the Odeon line will never ever get old. A half-sheet baking tray with wire rack, very useful kit!

Nir Sarig, chef at Eti

On his dream kitchen: When it comes to kitchens, I feel like there are usually two approaches that can work. And whenever I try to combine them, I end up compromising too much from one side or both.

On one hand, there’s the practical industrial layout: a big island with a sink, eight top burners, and two ovens. That’s what most of my clients in the Hamptons or Manhattan go for. It’s the classic layout, maybe what architecture schools teach?

On the other hand, there’s the vision I’ve always loved: a large 9×5 ft old farm table, high enough for prepping and comfortable enough for sitting around, like in those old Italian movies. Picture everyone gathered as someone cooks, dad with a glass of vino or a newspaper, fresh produce piled on the table. Pots hanging everywhere—tin, copper, cast iron and maybe even a countertop fireplace or a taboon oven built into the kitchen. Somewhere I can cook, plate food, and entertain all at the same table.

What he’s buying for it: The aforementioned large antique farm table and Mauviel copper-clad cookware.

Clare de Boer, author of “The Best Bit” on Substack, chef and proprietor of Stissing House, King, and Jupiter

On her dream kitchen: I like a kitchen that’s big enough to squeeze ten, and small enough that it still feels cozy for two. The layout should provide a tight work triangle with a clear island so prep can sprawl. No sink or cooker in the middle of it. I love the kitchen at Petworth House in the U.K., plus the hearth in the cookhouse at the Governor’s palace, Colonial Williamsburg, and of course my own kitchen.

What she’s buying for it: A simple stainless culinary tong, this Japanese ivory mortar bowl as an elegant receptacle for grinding spices, and redware ceramics from Roseland.

Emma Macdonald & Rowan Spencer, chef and proprietor of Mon Petit Canard

On their dream kitchen: Because we love to cook at home, but cooking together is also what we do for work, our dream kitchen would meld the very practical and the very romantic. We’re also both from the west coast, so the outdoor kitchens of California are always inspiring to us for their expansive approach that brings natural elements in (see: the window-shelf for eggs at Salmon Creek Farm in Mendocino).

At the scale of a kitchen in New York, this all somehow translates to Donald Judd’s kitchen at 101 Spring Street. His simplicity and instinct to combine restaurant-grade stainless steel with everything else in wood strikes the balance that we dream of too—plus we love his “pass” window from kitchen to dining room, with speakers and turntables bridging the two.

What they’re buying for it: A stainless steel commercial sink (bigger the better), ever useful plastic squeeze bottles, a stainless electric kettle from Aarke, a classic Japanese clay donabe pot (donabe makes for the easiest and healthiest weeknight meal), and a Tivoli AM/FM radio with Bluetooth for tunes while cooking.

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The Directory — illustrators

Vendors, artists, and suppliers to know, plus what you need to prepare and what you should expect from the process.

Because I spent so much time drawing this week, I wanted to compile a list of artists and illustrators whom I’ve either worked with in the past or whose work I love*, and are sure to deliver artwork for projects big and small. Rather than describe their work, I’ll just show it to you!

*I know there are so many more talented people out there, if you’re an artist please send me your work, I always love to see it.

Pauline de Roussy de Sales

Lukas the Illustrator

Claire Dufornier

Esme Shapiro

Lourenço Providência

Leslie Hamilton

Rebecca Schneider

Lucia Dallett

Edith Young

Anne Meredith

Lanier Hicks

Giles Pates

Alley Bell

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