407: 20th century party girl

A week in Peter Copping's Lanvin.

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Have you also been noticing all of the homages being paid to women designers of the early 20th century lately? Chanel’s wildly successful renewed consideration of the woman who was Coco Chanel, via Matthieu Blazy; Trevor Houston’s stewardship of the revived Herbert Levine, which was actually designed by his wife Beth, whose name Trevor is returning to the sole of the brand’s shoes; the piloting of ready-to-wear at longstanding couture house Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry, who is bringing the essence of Elsa’s original vision to the “masses” (scare quotes because it’s still $$$).

Lanvin (as in Jeanne) predates any of these, and the house’s most recent show in Paris by creative director Peter Copping was what got me pulling this thread. There’s a look baked into this kind of time travel, an intentionality, a femininity. I will be the first to wear workout capris and a t-shirt for a week if I don’t have to be anywhere, or the same old Oxford and jeans if I do, so this is not me bemoaning the death of formality. But it’s possible nostalgia’s extractors have made this era their newest quarry.

From it, they’re digging up swooping, silhouette-conscious proportions lost to heroin chic and Ozempic; covered-up “primness” that reads like quite the opposite in late-stage naked-dress society; and a gathered eclecticism that tips things over just when they’re starting to feel a little too on the nose. I like a kicky little jazz club number, a fit that’s fit for a cigarette holder (don’t come for me, I quit!), especially as calendars begin their steady morph into unconquerable holiday party line-ups.

Before that transition is complete, I’m warming up with a week’s worth of social occasions in Peter Copping’s Lanvin.

Lanvin Long Knotted Dress (in red here, $3,690) / Dior Leather Opera Gloves (similar on resale, $752, similar from Lanvin, $1,390) / Phoebe Philo Gathered Flat, $890

This gown (and what a gown!) features a beyond-floor-length double neck scarf that I believe is meant to hang down the back and catch the wind during dramatic strides. I wrapped it around my torso so that it criss-crosses under my bust and ties weightily off center at my hips, giving it a kind of Grecian peplos effect that, especially when paired with black-out leather opera gloves, makes me feel like a pedestal-bound work at the Met.

Lanvin Wool and Cashmere Sweater, $1,650 / Leset Yoko Button Down Shirt, $250 / Lanvin Wool Pants (similar, $1,790)

I’m still leaning on the “button-down shirt and my dad’s old Seiko watch” formula, but just as a base; a waist-hugging asymmetrical knit with built-in jewelry (an under-bust pin that reads “LANVIN”) distinguishes the whole getup on its own.

Lanvin Leopard Print Silk Scarf, $435 / Lanvin Straight Skirt in Cotton and Viscose, $2,660 / Lanvin Compagnon Asymmetrical Bag, $3,150 / Toteme Slim Leather Knee-High Boots, $791 $1,130

A funny thought is that fetish and erotica aesthetics have kept the whole boudoir, 1900s look alive through High Fashion’s absence. You could almost more easily picture this floor-length (on me) hook-and-eye skirt cut from latex than its satin-y viscose. The motif was sexy then, but it’s effectively a double-entendre now. Not to mention this flogger-fringed suede bag…

Lanvin Wool Ribbed Cardigan, $1,790 / Lanvin Cigarette Pants in Flannel, $2,150 / Gucci SS99 Feather Trim Sandals (on resale in blue here, $875) / Altuzarra Origami Bag Mini, $875 / Vieux Wave Sterling Silver Bangle, $600

The careening weight of this thousand-pound knit is the kind of thing that inspires phrases like, “they don’t make them like they used to.” Except, as it turns out, they do.

Lanvin Lace Detail Dress in Viscose, $1,650 / Lanvin Midnight Step Leather Bow Mule, $990 (heeled version here, $1,090) / Swedish Stockings Olivia Premium Tights, $48 / Nina Runsdorf Dome Earring with Brown Topaz Emerald Cuts, $650

Vaudeville lite. A shock of white tights takes this all-black number somewhere completely apart from where it’d be baring skin (I especially love the effect peeking through the pointelle).

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