353: Bidding wars
Plus Cristaseya x BLESS, my Dévé alphabet brooch on exclusive sale, and introducing the Magasin code index.
No doubt project ROOMS has strengthened my paddle-lifting muscles in recent months, but I’ve been shopping online auctions for years. I remember winning a pair of Acne Skin 5 jeans what must have been 15 years ago on eBay for, like, $40 and feeling like I had tapped into the shopping dark web. After that, I discovered Auction Sniper and did much more damage.
These days, in a rhyme, I’m making the migration away from Live Auctioneers to the auction houses’ own platforms to save myself from the 30% commission that can prove magnanimous when bidding on Ruhlmann chairs and Billy Haines benches (with brass BAMBOO legs—see: our memo out of Salone about bamboo interiors), which is exactly what I’ve been up to.
I may’ve succumbed to the Haines table in particular because of the exhilarating feeling of being part of something that a live auction lends. I’d had Haines and the Hollywood Regency era on my mind for a while, but sitting at the breakfast table, streaming the dulcet tones of a godlike auctioneer hammering ever closer to my watched lot, firing back bullet-like counterbids while I hushed the room so I could “concentrate”…and then winning, just under the cap I’d set myself (and was prepared to go over anyway)…this, to me, is storytelling. The dramatic arc is irresistible, how sports is to some people.
A few weeks ago, I found myself seated at an in-person auction for purely narrative purposes. Substack had organized a sell-off of random, at times purposely off-putting, items from the personal collections of Ottessa Moshfegh and Eddie Huang, proceeds hilariously benefitting the sellers directly (why not). The first thing that sold was a used (by Ottessa) toothbrush for $110. Later, she sold three lots of vintage gowns for a cumulative $1,110, a writing therapy Zoom call for $1,600, and an original painting for $2,800. I didn’t stick around for long enough to hear how much Eddie’s dog leash—originally for “bedroom purposes” and then appropriated for actual canine use during the LA fire evacuation—sold for, but I’m glad I went to capture the I-was-there texture. Like how Ottessa wore a black Prada t-shirt with a triangle patch or how the rapper Despot weirdly passed out in the crowd at some point.
Most of the time, though, I’m happy trawling the auctions purely to learn. On eBay, a Fortuny alert recently led me to Charles and Patricia Lester, a Barney’s eveningwear brand from Wales that employed their pleats (bidding for this dress starts at $2,699…also just look at this pink velvet creation, my god). A search for Pierre Jeanneret furniture landed me on the work of Dan Johnson from the same collection (I may have to make the drive to Aston, PA if I win these lawn chairs). And when Christie’s emails me about an upcoming Frances Elkins residence sale…even when lots include Jean-Michel Frank guéridon tables for $100,000-$150,000, an Emilio Terry mirror for $50,000-$70,000, and a Alberto Giacometti bas relief for $2MM-$3MM…I register my account to keep tabs on what else lies within.
A quick note on a new feature: the Magasin code index. At the end of every news and sales Weekly, you’ll now find a list of evergreen discounts made available to the Magasin readership. We’ll keep this updated as offers come and go, but today’s starting batch includes Swedish Stockings, U Beauty, and Co for up to 25% off. You might need to hit “View entire message” to unfurl. If you’re a brand who wants to share a discount, reach out in the replies.
What’s new
Cristaseya’s ephemeral doors swing open, revealing a collaboration with the art collective BLESS. A “cardigan” featuring a knit front and denim back, and a “jean jacket” constructed in the reverse. Hah. Japanese cupro pieces from the main line make me want to cry they’re so fine.
Morjas—the Spanish-Swedish shoe brand I visited in Stockholm; their boutique has a cafe that serves pan con tomate…brilliant—finally launched women’s today. I’ve been testing a pair of opera shoe-style ballet flats from the line to great success. The women’s arm is helmed by Annemiek Kessels and also includes a heel and a loafer.
I hate to feel got by the cyclical wave of “summer bags” that rolls in, remixes of straw and macrame and stripes, but I have to admit Prada’s collection—in particular this mini—got me quite good.
More SS25 Leset has trickled in, and what stands out most to me is how perfectly timed the styles are to my own travel plans. A floor-length yellow column dress that’ll look good against a tan at an Italian occasion, and a dusty pink outer layer for the city living I’ll be doing while the weather is still acting bashful.
The Aritzia x Sperry boat shoe collab that sold out in five hours when it first launched is back-ish. “Ish” in that some sizes in the sand colorway are already sold out again, but I like the choc brown better anyway.
There’s also: Lesse reformulates its SPF with improved blendability and a great pump tube for throwing in a summer purse and carrying everywhere; Lisa Yang’s SS25 includes a creative yet uncontrived take on the ribbed tank; a few new handmade-in-Paris styles reach Michelle Del Rio’s ecomm—notably the sheer Dulce Maria mini and the fringed Paloma Blouse; COS reveals “Summer in the City”; and Jamie Haller’s summer clothing collection is live—as are these banging flip flops.
Men’s releases
INTERESTINGLY, Sperry also just rolled out a men’s collab with J.Crew, a super-textured suede style in a rich chestnut and a curious mate to Aritzia’s womenswear version. Sea-leg summer wobbles in for round two.
The Studio Nicholson Summer Module that just rolled out is super sexy. I had to say it. It’s long-sleeves and shorts, linen suits, drawstring pants…the collection is inspired by Japanese “Gakuran” boys school uniforms, so I hope it doesn’t get me put on a list to say this is how men should thirst trap north of 70º.
Home releases
Guild Gallery (of Roman and Williams Guild) just brought on a collection of Ludmilla Balkis ceramics. Ludmilla was once Phoebe Philo’s right hand at Céline before they both departed and she veered into vessels. Her vases are as thin as sheets of paper in parts and look like they could float away at any moment.
What’s on sale
Magasin is so blessed. Studio Dévé’s spring sale sees jewelry marked down by 30%, but we—the Mag community—get an extra 20% off the sale price, plus 20% off all full-priced products, with MAGASIN20. The alphabet brooch I’ve been wearing as a belt charm…and that I know
just bought for himself, too, because I tried to buy him one only to be told he’d gotten there first…that’s a Dévé original eligible for the 20% discount. Meanwhile these Eileen Grey-inspired ridged hoops are a double-sale pick for under $170.Alex Mill conveniently timed its 70% off sale to coincide with the start of stripey-boatneck season. Thank god for that. And thank god for the radically well-fitting Sloane chinos that are only $62 to pair them with.
People who are good at shopping out of season will do exceptionally well at Nour Hammour’s Sample Sale…as far as furs/shearlings/leather goes, the brand is already priced very fairly and the cuts are good. But with this extra sale (currently advertised as “Private Access”), there’s a chance to get this kind of thing for straight up highway-robbery rates. I’m gravely considering this Daphne coat for fall because $1,230 just doesn’t feel real for 100% lambskin shearling.
My neighbor here in Brooklyn runs the robe and towel brand Great Indoors (she does fabrics over at Alexander Wang as her day job and knows her textiles). After a good run, she’s shuttering the operation, to the tune of 50% off with SUNSET while inventory lasts.
Lastly: Everything is 20% off at Credo’s F&F sale.
Magasin code index
Swedish Stockings: 25% off / MAGASIN
Ciao Lucia: 20% off / LAURA20
At Present: 20% off / LAURA20
Aureum: 20% off / MAGASIN
U Beauty: 20% off / MAGASIN
Motif: 20% off / MAGASIN
Omarovicza: 20% off / LAURA20
CO: 15% off / COXLR
Lunya: 15% off / magasinltd
Nomasei: 15% off / MAGASIN15
Lingua Franca: 15% off / MAGASIN15
Splits59: 15% off / MAGASIN
evolvetogether: 15% off / LAURA15
Mimchik: 15% off / MAGASIN
Asher: 15% / MAGASIN15
Soru Jewelry: 15% off / LAURA15
The Light Salon: 15% off / LAURA15
Bardelia: 15% off / magasin
NOOD: 15% off / LAURA15
Freda Salvador: 10% off / LAURA10
Simkhai: 10% off / MAGASIN
By Pariah: 10% off / LAURA10
Cesta Collective: 10% off / Magasin
Sskein: 10% off / LAURA-10
Magasin may earn some money if you make a purchase through one of the links above.
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LR Prada 🔗 busted ❌⭕️