327: The rise of reverse dupes
Plus Miu Miu x Petit Bateau, Lemaire's unexpected evening bag, and we're hiring.
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An interesting phenomenon I’m seeing take shape: the rising demand for reverse dupes. People love the look of cute, cheap stuff, but they’re willing to spend the money for it not to fall apart at the touch.
In the Magasin Chat, which is ground zero for this enlightened shopping behavior, one person posted a link to this Maniere De Voir Oversized Calais Bag, saying “Love the design of this bag. However it’s not even leather. Anyone have any recs on this same style but leather. I have never purchased from this brand is it even worth it?”
A commenter astutely suggested this Moschino bag, but personally, I might add in this Manu Atelier version that’s closer to the former’s price at $745. This Osoi alternate may retain more of the original’s intrinsic chaos.
Another wrote: “Looking for something similar to Merrell jungle moc but different brand. Have never owned the jungle Mocs, I was between sizes when tried on, but reading lots of recent reviews ppl seem to say the quality has gone to shit.” IMO, these slippers from Staud’s new Sport line are a really great ballet-like substitute, but a truer, better-quality match would be from ROA or Salomon, ofc.
Dupes as we’ve known them refer to an item that’s made by recreating good design poorly, and out of bad materials. Eventually, this knockoff economy spurred enough sellable versions of these facsimiles to actually drum up the money to make a few of its own designs, ones that understood shoppers’ preferences for fit and style. Now, shoppers are triggering a role reversal by looking to “cheap” brands for design and “high end” brands for execution. The reverse dupe is born.
“Does anyone have any recs for blazers similar to the standout blazer by aritzia! I love the silhouette but hate the material composition!” Wrote another chat participant. I’ve actually worn this exact style, and while the fit is lovely, yeah, it’s majority polyester. Without looking it up, my mind immediately goes to Magda Butrym—like this wool-cotton-cashmere style—and Ferragamo, as with this wool one. After some research, this Sportmax is arguably the most kindred, and 95% virgin wool.
The subreddit r/findfashion has, in the past three months, called out for “higher quality,” “better” versions of items from Temu, Club L London, Mango, Steve Madden, Aerie, Target, Bershka, a bag from Taylor Swift’s official store, and a dress from a brand literally listed as Generic on Amazon. I wouldn’t exactly put the health of my closet in the hands of Redditors, but some of the replies shouted out Levi’s, Tom Ford, Acne…so, not hopeless. Some also, most helpfully, pointed to r/buyitforlife.
The reverse dupe has even emerged in others’ shrewd observations of cultural phenomena. From
’s call-out of Goop-adjacent moms loving the Wirkin: “Spoiler: they are THRILLED !!!!! Everyone seems to agree that it’s weird that ppl are mad or claiming this is the day the birkin died. From what I’m hearing, it’s actually the opposite… Direct relation between the Walmart birkin and ppl ringing their SAs again…. I love watching this sport.”What this tells me is, 1. stuff has gotten so disgustingly, unfathomably bad that we have no choice but to address its true bottom line and elevate our sights to more lasting options. It’s the happy ending to a painfully drawn-out era. The knockoff hit its tipping point! We reached peak dupe!! And, 2. honestly, higher-end brands can sometimes veer too heady and ugly as an IYKYK signifier. Most of the time, people just want to wear flattering and unchallenging things that are nicely made. Let them.
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It’s a news-only week (but go check out the SSENSE sale, up to 70% off and officially ending in less than a week), while the spring arrivals are in full force. More on that, below the fold.
What’s new
Miu Miu snuck in a collab with Petit Bateau, the children’s brand fashion girls discretely buy their tanks from. The pieces—overlapping-seam tops and onesies (lol)—were on the last runway, but the fact that it was done in cahoots with the original maker surfaces this odd shopping secret for all to see is fab and hilarious.
Did you guys watch The White Lotus? I mean obviously. But did it make you want to buy anything from the collabs that have come out from Away, Abercrombie & Fitch, Bloomingdales, H&M, Camilla, Fair Harbor, or Compartés (chocolate bars!)? How about the ones with Banana Republic or Kiehl’s launching in March? No? Maybe 10th time’s the charm.
Nothing like a staged Pete Davidson relationship to get the press talking, not that Reformation needed it (there’s are some of the only marketing emails I open consistently…untouchable copy unmatched by all of its imitators). The brand’s spring collection is here, and naturally it nails the moment: low-rise, wide-leg jeans with a carved butt; a mesh tote that’s kind of fancy, kind of beach; flip-flop season’s comeback; an opalescent mini-shorts suit for a cheeky bride (or whomever)…
Big new denim launch out of Alex Mill, all credibly vintage-inspired. My favorite is the Carla, featuring a trouser-like faded center-crease line, exactly how I like to wear my own jeans.
Bag watch! A lot of ground to cover here, starting with Metier’s Puglia Woven—think shrunken Ikea tote in a non-cliché textured leather, and Bottega Veneta releases the Ciao Ciao, which you’ve likely seen all over your channels, I sureeee have. And then, same same but different: Lemaire continues its collaboration with Filt with a dainty, evening-bag scale net tote (j’adore!); Puppets and Puppets flexes its pared back role as an accessory-maker only with the new Pillow Bag; and COS finally releases the Margaux-lookalike its been teasing in ecomm images for months—the Bowling Bag.
I picked up this pony hair baguette bag from St. Agni’s SS25 new arrivals, but I might have to go back in for these large-paillette sequin slides. Oof.
Exciting stuff happening on the jewelry front. My pet fave Camille Surault released Collection II (just love how it’s shot); Kinn’s 19th vintage edition dropped and is already nearly sold out; Agmes’ SS25 (feat a campaign styled by Kallmeyer’s stylist) is a moving exercise in silver—this collar went directly to the wishlist; and Sapir Bachar goes in the opposite direction with damn good leather and carved coral in the latest delivery.
There’s also: The Grainau High from Birkenstock 1775…whoa; either a little late, or on the edge of a second wave, Comme Si introduces the silk bias pant; the excellent partnership that is Khaite x Oliver Peoples now extends to optical; Carven SS25 hit the brand’s site first, from which I already bought (and wore!) this beaded scarf—surprisingly dynamic; Olgabasha is back in stock Carmen, get them jeans; and are you going to buy the Phoebe Philo campaign tee? I have thoughts.
Men’s releases
Dana Lee Brown—a designer who derives her hype making clothes that eschew dyes in favor of gorgeous, naturally hued yarns—released the Cozy Shirt in Lichen green, which
says has the “softest inside.”For those plugged in with the skate community, Vans updated its Old Skool 36 with new Vibram soles. The technicals on this have people pretty excited for the increased grip, which has even come with a new signature waffle pattern.
Home releases
Is any brand as prolific a collaborator as USM? (Maybe Beams…) The modular furniture maker teamed up with designer Armando Cabral on an African-inspired capsule integrating USM’s signature pipe and board components; a lounge chair, bed, and snaking etagere are standouts. A range of exhibit partners including Brooklyn’s Fefo Studio and Nordic Knots contributed (sometimes exclusive) wares to the show.
In Common With, the lighting studio behind the everything-is-shoppable bar Quarters, has collaborated with ceramics maker Szilvassy. I’m obsessed with, maybe even a little jealous of, the universe of this project. Going to invite talented resident artists to remake everything in my own home under this same premise.
Tekla adds a new shade of gray, one that can best be describes as “clean boy aesthetic,” to its permanent collection.
IDK where I got this, but I always thought Zara Home didn’t deliver to the States. I just clicked around on its Editions SS25 new arrivals and discovered that it does. Big day for home shoppers who like made-in-Portugal minimalism at a below-average price tag (all of us???).
Hudson Wilder gave in to our demands. The most-requested glassware—Sora tumblers in short and tall—has arrived.
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The Belt Cabas Bag by Coperni is adjacent to the Manière De Voir https://coperniparis.com/en-us/products/belt-cabas-bag?variant=48335432909135&gQT=1
Omg touched for the shoutout — this is all so so true, the wirkin is the rich mom LET THEM EAT CAKE. V much “oh great, now we can all share in life’s simple pleasures” (birkins) loool.