325: NYFW Days 5 + 6 / The vintage shoe Miu Miu duped
Plus to tailor or not to tailor, American leather, and is four looks too many?
Introducing Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we’ll be covering shoppable observations from scenes of interest daily: New York Fashion Week, Days 5 + 6.
Weather report
32ºF / 0º C — honestly didn’t even feel that bad, the sun was out and everyone was in a great mood. Last day of school energy!
Itinerary
Feb 10
1p Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen show
3p Gap shoot
7p Tory Burch show — have to celebrate Tory for being a non-suiting brand while the rest of the calendar is so tailored. Instead, we got super luxury sweats that are interesting to look at, hilarious leather jackets, a wild range of personality knits, sparkle…
Feb 11
12p Kallmeyer show —what a thoroughly balanced collection. So many people were saying they thought this was her best yet, and I can see why: well-cut leathers and wovens for elevating the everyday and a few remarkable yet unobvious pieces (a polo-collared gown!) for those truly special occasions.
1:30p Heirlome showroom — featuring a collaboration with Guatemalan artisans
5p Thom Browne show — Adrian Brody! But seriously, though, more of a true show than I expected from the man who likes to put on theater productions. Gave us some good coats to contemplate.
6p USM x Armando Cabral cocktail
7:30p At Present dinner at Hotel Chelsea
9p Lagavulin x Connor McKnight party at People’s
some skips
Look 1
Colleen Allen Victorian Jacket, $1,200 / Colleen Allen Skirt (similar, $750) / Co Round Toe Knee High Bootie in Lambskin, $995 / Alaïa Black 'Le Teckel Small' Bag, $3,100
Look 2
Emily Dawn Long Jacket (coming soon) / vintage Levi’s 501s (similar) / Tory Burch Small Lee Radziwill Degradé Shopper, $898 / Martiniano Party Heels, $545 / Lié Studio The Margaret Necklace, $380
Look 3
Kallmeyer Avery Cropped Jacket, $1,920 / Kallmeyer Evie Cardigan, $510 / Leset James Turtleneck, $360 / Auralee Indigo Hard Twist Denim 5P Jeans, $460 / Veronica De Piante Margaux Ankle Boots, $995 / vintage Bottega Veneta Intrecciato Veneta Hobo Maxi, $1,695 / Saint Laurent SL 751 Jeanne Oval Sunglasses, $360
Look 4
La Collection Ramona Crepe Silk Dress, $933 $1,555 / Carven Embroidered Fringed Scarf, $390 / Sophie Buhai Teardrop-Embellished Satin Pouch, $975 / vintage Manolo Blahnik Heels (similar, $316)
Magasin intel
I knew we weren’t done with fashion books this season—the revived shoe brand Herbert Levine (now designed by The Row/Khaite/Coach’s Trevor Houston) handed out inspiration books at its preview, a moody-glam image of Marilyn Monroe gracing the cover. Style Not Com’s Beka Gvishiani also signed copies of his book at Tiffany’s earlier this week and launched a broadsheet people can pick up for free at his Zara capsule popup.
Speaking of resurrectable shoe brands, my friend the furniture designer Sophie Dries showed me her prolific collection of shoes (mostly Prada) when I was in Paris last month, including an iconic pair from Free Lance, a brand fashion insider types tend to revere. Technically, it still exists as a sad sack version of its former self, but vintage styles are where its at—as with her heeled loafers featuring a band of real melded coins that caught the attention of Miuccia Prada at a party, who later released a similar pair under Miu Miu.
Those insane feather extensions at Thom Browne were by Lashify. Not the beauty sponsor I expected to see at that show, but excellently integrated.
Here’s an under sung American fashion legacy: Golden Bear Sportswear, a 100+ year old maker of leather jacket “blanks” that have been worn by the likes of Bill Clinton (and his Secret Service), David Letterman (and the entire Late Show staff), The Grateful Dead, The Rolling Stones…if it’s a made-in-USA leather varsity, it’s likely a Golden Bear. Shinola and Taylor Stitch and even Banana Republic commission leather jackets from GBS, but you can find these things all over eBay for around $150, $200.
Now that the week is done, a couple of shout outs to the basics that got me through the task of dressing up at all hours: this Enza Costa long sleeve was the VIP base layer, was happy to reach for my Auralee jeans on multiple occasions, I wore these Toteme boots at least once a day (or so it felt like), and while not pictured, this The Row trench coat was more often than not my outerwear for evening excursions.
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That Golden Bear note hit me—such an under-sung American legacy. I actually crossed paths with them in a roundabout way: I’m old enough to have partied with the Grateful Dead a few times, and the father of an intern in my office ran the trucking company that hauled the band around. She brought me backstage when they came through town, and I still have the passes. Seeing Golden Bear tied to that world of presidents, talk shows, and rock bands is a reminder that fashion history isn’t just on the runway—it’s woven through these cultural side doors.
The Colleen Allen brights set - I gasped. Delightful!!