324: NYFW Days 3 + 4 / They really snapped

Plus Martiniano, MAN-TLE, and a trio of outfits.

Feb 10, 2025

Introducing Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we’ll be covering shoppable observations from scenes of interest daily: New York Fashion Week, Days 3 + 4.

Weather report

36ºF / 2º C — a fresh blanket of snow that came down as the finale to Khaite’s show became the next morning’s trekking-to-subway hard mode…at least the schedule was light!

Itinerary

Feb 8

1p Eckhaus Latta show — ran late and pulled up just as the show was letting out…the crowds outside were all saying how much they loved the jeans (as they should), and a look at the uploads later tipped me off to the brand’s new, heavy-weight shoe game. The boots, a collaboration with Ecco.Kollektive, are coming for Lemaire levels of accessory cultishness.

7p Khaite show — between the Portishead soundtrack and felted caps, Snatch showing up on the moodboard felt like such a welcome reference shift compared to the femme and dainty Deco-era dressing abounding elsewhere…IDK about you but I think the state of the mid-2020s calls for a bit of hardness (which also showed up in the leopard prints, natures predators).

Feb 9

11a Ulla Johnson show

1p Sandy Liang show — weird what happens when the whole industry catches up with a brand’s signature, in this case, fleece. Something about this collection felt like brand codes as free radicals pinging in a million directions looking for new places to settle and landing at times in Collina Strada territory, and at others in Miu Miu. The Sandy girl identity outline is getting so hazy.

some skips

Magasin intel

I regrettably missed the Eckhaus Latta show, but it was cool to see Look 1 walk out wearing the exact same mossy green bag I was wearing stuck in traffic, The Snap. Eckhaus had released the bag between seasons, so this was its runway debut. Can confirm it’s practical, comfortable, and available in a series of earthily thoughtful shades that add dimension to an outfit. I got like three DMs about it from this shot alone.
Fforme, just hours after its debut show under Creative Director Frances Howie, uploaded 28 new-with-tags pieces from “old Fforme” (Helbers’ era) to The RealReal. The brand ran a massive Black Friday sale—it was a Magasin best-seller of the season—and just hosted an in-person sample sale where prices were reportedly even more urgently low. It’s clear the brand likely overproduced and wants a neat break, all to the gain of today’s shopper.
At Khaite’s show—and on the heels of my revelation that Judy Turner’s Conley Averett is its head of knitwear—I couldn’t help but notice a fringed red knit that looked an awful lot like Avarett’s own line’s insane sweater I had just been admiring at the Absolutely Fabrics showroom. It’s featured on the homepage, but seems to be OOS everywhere. Guess I’m waiting for Khaite’s to land come September…
Ran into all the MEN outside of Eckhaus (a likely place for them to be), and saw Blackbird Spyplane’s Jonah Weiner wearing the MAN-TLE Down 3 insulated jacket I considered buying for Nir for so long that it eventually sold out. Other colorways are still available (they release new ones each season), but alas, the Earth Wax version is a stranger to ecommerce for now.
Not calendar intel, but since I’ve worn Martiniano this week, ITYSK that the brand is now available on SSENSE with a tight edit of fruit-punchy heels, boots, and glove flats.

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