321: Sale scene intel
Plus The Row's micro-Margaux, Lemaire's beaded Croissants, and Alex Mill SS25.
Sale went great! Thank you to the paid subscribers who scooped up all the slots before I was able to release it to the full list.
Some intel from the scene: The pony hair coat was the first item to go, it didn’t stand a chance. It was vintage, so no clear comps, but I did spy this Gabriela Coll Garments jacket this morning and energetically it’s there. Virtually everything sold out, but I couldn’t stop myself rescuing a couple of pieces from the sales floor—those cream The Row Gala pants (IDK who I thought I was, of course I’m going to keep wearing them) and a pair of La Canadienne shearling mules, precursors to the Proenza x Sorels, that I realized I could be using as outdoor slippers if such a thing exists. (My exact style is sold out except for the resale market, but now’s a good opportunity to co-meditate on these great amazing green suede boots from the brand.) There was a moment during the sale when Liana and I both sprung up to ask a shopper what her bag was—The Row? Old LV? It turned out to be this oxblood Proenza Schouler cylinder bag (also on sale in taupe).
(For everyone who’s asked, I wore a Lexx Finger Marché shirt, Cristaseya cords, and Neous mules.)
Outside of my living room and on a more global scale, threat of a 25% tariff was enough for me to finally do something about the cartful of pants I’ve been stalling on at SSENSE. I bought these Our Legacy ‘Hip’ Trousers and a last pair from Deveaux New York that I’m convinced will satisfy my low-rise inclinations…but for good measure I also ordered The Row’s Encore pants to ensure I get this pursuit solved. FWIW, if St. Agni’s Carter pants (which I have in moss) weren’t sold out everywhere, I would have bought a pair in black ages ago and been done with the whole rigamarole.
We are T-0 for NYFW, so I’ll keep this brief (and with a news-only send, sometimes that’s just how things fall). You’ll be hearing from me a lot more this week with boots-on-the-ground shopping insights from the shows and parties via our patented (not really) events franchise Report Back.
What’s new
How many times have I already typed out T H E R O W in this newsletter? Nonetheless, the brand’s SS25 collection came out, and that’s no skippable matter. Lots of plaids and patterns, even colorful ones, but the major—and most easily blink-and-you’ll-miss-it—event is the introduction of the Peggy Clutch, which, when held with its concealed strap, acts as something of a micro Margaux. It’s $2,900 and one colorway already sold out.
Studio Nicholson’s SS25 collection brings with it two new urgently pursuable leather bag styles—the unapologetically enormous Hobo II and the hatched leather Hobo I. A personal highlight from the RTW is the Holin coat in a shade I want to describe as aubergine hot chocolate.
Lemaire’s SS25 has likewise landed, and the accessory report is as follows: more sensitive objects on chains, beaded-strap Croissant bags (!!!), and I think it’s time to start taking the brand’s farily priced jewelry offering seriously.
I got to check out Khaite’s SS25 pieces close up at the showroom a couple of weeks ago, so I’m extra charged up to see it land on site. Not that you could miss it, but the Simona in red calfskin and beaded earcuff in particular are worth a close look.
Of all the spring collection releases, Leset’s is the only one that actually makes me think of life after melted ice. Blues like skies seen through sunglasses, baby buttercup yellows, optimistic papery knits…
Alex Mill’s SS25 puts forth a chore jacket (apparently we’re doing these again…so soon, no?) that’s scores more affordable than the one The Row just released. Also love to see the iconic Rollneck back in bright new colors.
Proenza Schouler finally released the Tate Bag, which I saw on the runway last NYFW and immediately clocked as the brand’s, overdue for a follow-up to the PS1, next It bag.
Staud correctly reads the moment with the launch of Staud Sport, a mostly logo-less capsule of nylon neutrals that balance between active and casual life (e.g. a nylon baguette).
There’s also: Bally introduces a line of bow shoes that read less Sandy Liang and more vintage tuxedo (actual vintage versions are aplenty); A.P.C. taps Parisian fashion editor Anastasia Barbieri for an officewear-minded collab; slim sneaker supremacy rages on with the arrival of the Loewe Ballet Runner 2.0; effervescent new denim brand Rúadh gets picked up by Moda Operandi, its first major retailer, including a bunch of previously unreleased exclusives; Still Here rolls out a line of sweatshirts for Colors Chapter 2, a follow up to its exacting t-shirt release; small good thing—Completedworks and Merit make a shapely compact mirror that beautifully complements the silver trinkets I carry in my bag every day; and COS x Linda Farrow is back for a new season of sunglasses.
Men’s releases
I was just saying in Paris how Willy Chavarria is the people’s prince of fashion, but somehow his clothes never actually materialize in retail or on the streets. So, it’s nice to see his “Jalisco Shoe” collab with Allen Edmonds take shape.
Bode’s commitment to Betsy Ross’ Americana was always going to pay off over pivoting in step with the culture’s meandering tastes. While “Bode Boys” were inescapable (insufferable) a few summers ago, American Sport SS25 comes charged with integrity. A funny word for a collection of sports jerseys and nautical cosplay, but that’s what being a true original with net you.
Saman Amel’s SS25 Curated Looks portends to contain all of the pieces and looks a man could need for any occasion this season. If that’s true (and it could be!), I look forward to seeing you all in your suede blousons and slutty cupro button-downs.
Home releases
The finer things set congregated uptown this week to launch L'OBJET x Ruan Hoffmann at Bergdorf’s, a cheeky, affably chintzy capsule of gilded dishware conjured up by the South African designer.
I’ve found a surprising number of use cases for my Louis Poulsen Mini Portable Panthella lamp—I set it on the bag table at this weekend’s sale and stage it around the house to add soft lighting to rooms before we properly address them during reno—so I’m very interested to see the introduction of another portable: the lantern-like VL45 Radiohus.
In other modular news, Herman Miller launches the Spout Sit-to-Stand Table, a liftable, shrinkable surface for those resisting return-to-office.
Like many a fashion brand, Cold Picnic put our a capsule in honor of the Year of the Snake—a series of serpentine (and fairly priced) area rugs.
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Wow curious about how the tariffs are affecting ssense f sure