282: PFW Days 7 + 8 / Tail ends

Plus Zoran's climbing stock, paper-inspired leather bags, and two final looks!

Oct 01, 2024

Introducing Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we’ll be covering shoppable observations from scenes of interest daily: Paris Fashion Week, Days 7 + 8.

Weather report

59ºF / 15º C

Itinerary

Sept 29

11:30a Niccolò Pasqualetti show

12:45p RIC showroom — went by Rachel’s sales showroom to view the Kallmeyer collection and take another look at Colleen Allen

2p Sapir Bachar showroom

2:30p Savette showroom

3p Simone Rocha resee

3:30p mfpen showroom

4p Tibi resee

7p Isabel Marant show

8p Ralph Lauren + Holiday Magazine issue launch party

Sept 30

10a Stella McCartney show

1p Lemaire lunch meeting at Vins des Pyrenees

3p Grey's Studio showroom — excited to see the second season from this considered new brand with a California leisure bent; its first collection ever will be available semi-exclusively at Outline Brooklyn beginning very soon

3:30p Santangelo showroom

4p Sacai show

5:30p Michelle Del Rio showroom

7p Christopher John Rogers cocktail

some sick skips :(

Look 1

Lemaire Asymmetrical Bathrobe Coat, $1,969 / Cristaseya (similar from Niccolò Pasqualetti, $1,930) / Baserange Kolla Pants (available in white-blue stripe, $145) / Fane Bra Bag, $610 / A.Emery Kinto Sandals, $145

Look 2

Vince Cashmere Crew Neck Sweater, $345 / Prada Silk Mini Skirt (preowned in size 36, $1,242) / The Row Burgundy Dalia Baguette Bag, $1,990 / Saint Laurent Carine 55 Slingback Pumps, $1,090 / Falke Shelina 12 Tights, $26

Shoppable observations

The Japanese restaurant/atelier/gallery/boutique Ogata created a leather version of its signature East-West paper shopping bags in collaboration with the artist Daisuke Iwanga. It comes in two sizes—small and medium—each with a minimal number of seams and long, elegant straps. It’s a phenomenal logoless alternative to the Teckel.
I’ve said and maintain that the Niccolò Pasqualetti show is one of my favorite for outfit spotting among the crowd—it’s mainly an editor show, meaning no one is being dressed, and rather everyone is pulling off considered, un-peacocky outfits. The unexpected “trend” that emerged from the front row this season was iPhone climbing rope lanyards that look to be these ones from Topologie, of which I spotted at least four.
I hate to ruin the surprise of a gift, but I can only hope my mom skims over this bit and doesn’t discover ahead of time that I bought her a Brigitte Tanaka embroidered shopping bag. I’d first learned about the French-Japanese artist through the brand’s collaboration with Undercover, and I ended up stumbling into its extraordinary shop—housed in three stories of a wide, ancient stone staircase behind a wooden door that opens directly onto the street.
At lunch with Felix Besson from the Lemaire team, we got on the subject of leather. He told me he previously worked at a shoe brand called JM Weston, a century-old brand that has kept all of its production in France and uses the same tannery as Hermes.
We seem to be reverse engineering The Row as a culture, for how its oft-referenced predecessor Zoran’s prices are rising at vintage stores. A vintage popup in the Marais had the brand for €400, and Preclothed carried a similar piece for €850. Meanwhile, you can still find plenty online at non-inflated prices—The RealReal’s stock starts at $30.
I should have kept closer track of all the amazing scents I took in across showrooms (something for next season!), but in the meantime, I’ll tell you that the RIC NYC space was burning Buly’s “Campagne d’Italie” and it was totally intoxicating.

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