281: PFW Day 6 / 'Neath the silk Fortuny light

Plus legging whispers, the next Teckel, and what a dress!

Sep 29, 2024

Introducing Magasin’s pop-up Fashion Week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, where we’ll be covering shoppable observations from scenes of interest daily: Paris Fashion Week, Day 6.

Weather report

50ºF / 10º C

Itinerary

1p Cristaseya appointment

3p Preclothed visit — popular vintage store among the fashion week crown that warranted a re-visit after the previous night’s event where I didn’t have a chance to browse; I can’t wait to see who ends up with the shearling Céline coat everyone is talking about

6p Le Sundial cocktail + presentation — designer Silvia Dusci and Fidan Novruzova had apparently gone on the same Venetian inspiration trip, and each took away a lot to apply to their respective collections; Silvia’s Le Sundial jewelry favors stones over metals this season

7:30p Substack dinner

8p Completedworks dinner

some skips

The look

Cristaseya dress (similar vintage Yohji Yamamoto, $160) / Vince Cashmere Crew Neck Sweater, $345 / Savette The Florence Leather Top Handle Bag, $1,750 / Neous Ubens Mules, $690 / Completedworks Chasing Shadows III Cuff, $325

Shoppable observations

I was eavesdropping on a couple women at Preclothed doting upon someone just out of sight, saying, “You have a store in New York, right? I’m a customer and a fan…you make my favorite leggings of all time.” That’s when she turned around and I saw Daniella, and it made perfect sense that they were talking about her brand Kallmeyer’s Clara Stirrup Trouser—unmatched!
On that note, Daniella had just come from Dries, where she bought a pair of brown suede sneakers, an update to the green ones she said “everyone was buying over the summer” (
Emilia Petrarca
being one of them, as documented here).
Net-A-Porter’s buying manager Lydia Zacharis were picking each other’s brains on the topic of bags. She said that while Alaia’s Teckel is impossible to keep in stock now, part of her job is to forecast whether we’ll have reached peak Teckel by next season and demand will have moved on. I commented that I hadn’t packed my Teckel on this trip, and she told me that she was admiring the Savette Florence I was carrying—she’d been thinking of getting one herself…
At the Le Sundial presentation last night, Sourcewhere’s Erica Wright and I were talking about the temptation of Charvet robes, and she told me that earlier this summer, she’d bought a robe from Rome’s Schostal and worn it as a dress. It’s so elegant that with a pair of little heels and some jewelry, no one would ever know its intended use.
At drinks, talent agent Sophie Krakoff pulled out and applied a berry-tinted gloss that prompted multiple people at the table to ask what product she was using (her lips were glass-shiny). It was Clarins Lip Comfort Oil in Pitaya and a very good sell!
Did you know Issey Miyake designed the uniforms for Lithuania’s Olympic team in 1992? Notable Lithuanian Viktorija Jasevice shared this piece of fashion trivia and we mused that the surviving pieces are probably all out of reach in museums or priced to never really move. Turns out this absolutely stunning pleated track jacket is up there at $2,250, but this pair of gymnastics pants are somehow only $90.
Got some intel that a handful of the By Far design team jumped ship some time ago and is soon to launch a new, similarly priced shoe brand called Jude.
Not from the wild, but from my laptop this morning: Carven is finally on SSENSE. Going to attempt and run to the store while I’m here to try on this blazer (look at those teeny buttons!!!), this cardi, and these pants, but it I don’t find the time, I might go ahead and order anyway for all the promise they have.

Retail experience of the day — Cristaseya

In a perfect world, all shopping would take place the way it does at Cristaseya: privately, beautifully, successfully. It was a most accommodating setting for an old friend and me to catch up, her lounging on a stripy chaise underneath a silk Fortuny light while I made my way around the room, pulling pieces from the latest collection on the north side as well as past collections on the south. I’d been waiting a long time to visit the appointment-only space.

It’s not a distinctly hospitality-oriented experience, as a lot of higher-end retail now bills itself. It really is about the clothes. Christina, Christaseya’s founder, was there herself and was curious to see how her pieces fit me, popping over the mirror area when she heard us discussing the various items I tried on—including a check cotton shirt made in collaboration with Italian tailor Salvatore Piccolo and drawstring wool-viscose pants.

It’s just as much about the objects in the space, the two-story apartment store also serving as a gallery and selling ceramics. Other “decor” included real pumpkins from Mexico that had been hand painted and preserved in resin.

I narrowed my selection to three pieces, a fair negotiation with myself for the long lead-up time: a pair of corduroy trousers, the last of a knit sweater in a size XL made in Christina’s mother’s mill in Italy, and a form-fitting button-front dress, which I put on and immediately said looked like ‘90s Yohji. Later, I did some research and came across this Yohji archive piece—it’s a perfect match, down to the curved curtain hem (and it’s by some miracle only $160).

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Photos by Juliana Goldman

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