262: Saint Laurent via Miu Miu via Calvin Klein

Plus Tory Burch's Animal House, a 50% off F.Miller exclusive, and Mara's final farewell.

Aug 14, 2024

I want to give a warm welcome to my face to these Saint Laurent sunglasses that I bought less than five minutes after spotting them on MyTheresa. I’d just lost a pair of perfect-for-me Marni Rainbow Mountains sunglasses (I’d had a similar flash of recognition when I bought them years ago) and was in the process of gaslighting myself into pretending I didn’t care.

An unsuccessful effort. I’d been treading through ‘90s Calvin Klein territory, by way of its Peter Lindbergh-shot ads featuring Christy Turlington with slicked back hair and a pre-Jenna Lyons-like defined lip, and was highly receptive to gently rounded, thin-framed specs. Sometimes the reference can feel more like the real thing than the original, and the SL 751 switched on something within that my variously phrased Etsy searches weren’t turning up.

Even though it was Miu Miu who reopened the specs conversation on its FW24 runway—these have held strong on my wishlist since they landed—I wasn’t surprised Saint Laurent was the one to take me past the finish line.

Indulge me for a moment: Back at the time of the show, the critical chatter about Saint Laurent’s hosiery-oriented collection for this season was about whether the sheer, monochromatic separates from the runway were actual, wearable propositions or just editorial fodder. I’m finding, now that pieces are hitting stores, it’s not just real, it’s good.

Improbable as a $3,550 all-lace skirt or an $1,150 cashmere mesh polo are (I forgive the $6,500 leather bomber because that’s just what things cost now), I won’t deny that I like them, quite a lot in fact. Where fuss is rising from many of the biggest names (a lotta stupid flourishes added to classic pieces being called “design”), Saint Laurent is pulling back—these squared-off sandals taken to their most minimal conclusion, the daring plunge of this u-neck knit…all of the bags of course have “YSL” plaques to some degree, but I see and appreciate the restraint being taken not shoving house codes onto every trim and finish.

The glasses of course come from Kering Eyewear rather than the mainline label, but my takeaway still stands: After resisting Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent for years—which he spent making clothes that placated the archives more than they did the present-day shopper—I’m seeing it.

With News Editor

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What’s new

Tory Burch’s limited-edition Animal House collection—feat. cargo pants, one-piece swimsuits, quintessential Miller sandals, Ella totes, and a dozen or so styles wrapped with a full-bleed Walter Schels photo of a screeching cat—is one of the coolest releases from Tory in recent memory. The electric black-and-white image dares to subvert even Tory’s preppiest staples. What a thing to go so full-force with when so many other collabs entering the market are like, “hmm, how about we give it a green stripe!” A fangs-out cat printed on a pair of Birk-like Tory mules sounds cute, funny maybe, but the ultimate effect is one of bold, space-occupying energy. Nice to feel something!
Don’t Let Disco continues its “Duets” series of collaborative jewelry with an energetically appointed necklace co-designed by my friend Juliana Goldman. The ammonite, shell, rock crystal, and pyrite chain was released on the date of the opening of the Lion’s Gate Portal, an astrological phenomenon that emplanes manifestations onto a hyperloop, making it a different kind of investment piece. Juliana’s spiritual addition follows choice partnerships with other friends of the newsletter Dione Davis and Jalil Johnson, each contributing their own unique and considered designs for the brand.
The easy sensuality of summer’s uniform—skin-tight tops and sheer sundresses—can make it hard to remember the romance of lavish layering, but By Malene Birger’s new collection up for preorder at Moda will jolt you back into that nuanced, cozy mentality with effortless, fluffy suede caps; thickly-knit cardigans with sculptural, curved sleeves; wool-mohair polo tops bristling out of cream-colored plackets and hemlines with soft waves of fringe, and more dreamy winter wear.
Lauren Manoogian is opening its AW24 season with a tie-wrap cardigan, a slip-on “Capote” coat, and a longer shawl-necked coat, each available in three colors of felted alpaca wool (ecru, dusty greige, and a dynamic, lighter shade of black), plus a set of knee-high socks in the same three hues, the label staking claim to its own, luxurious brand of simplicity, as per usual.
Proenza’s FW24 collection especially nailed its dresses and handbags, with textured knit column dresses tufted white at the collar and hemline, LBDs layered with resin scales that feel spiritually akin to Cate Blanchett’s spoon top, cylindrical purses that can be worn horizontally or rotated into a nifty vertical, and a close-fitting crossbody that curves to match the contours of your body.
The voluminous, near-Brutalist Court trench coat and ballet flats that prove themselves fresh by lacing up like the Chloë Sevigny look that dominated last week’s feeds are only the tip of the slew of sleeper hits offered by Our Legacy in its first batch of FW24 arrivals in addition to sharp takes on perennial staples like a button-down with pointy cuffs that act as built-in accessories to the shirt.
Alex Mill’s August collection expertly chills garments out: a structured collarless jacket relaxes into a sturdily-stitched, business-casual cardigan in cotton cashmere; classic chinos are updated with lower waistbands and straighter legs; saturated but slightly washed sweatshirts are thinned out and relaxed to better serve as layering agents; and more.
In news that sounds like sartorial Mad Libs, uniform dressing guru Suzie Kondi tapped yogi (?) Eddie Stern to create a unisex, three-piece seersucker suit, as seen on… Willem Dafoe? The boxy, short sleeve button-down; loose, cropped trousers; and low-key blazer are bait for one-and-done dressers looking for their next sole outfit.
There’s also: Gucci launches the “masculine” Gucci B Bag, a large crescent in grainy maroon leather with a strap sporting the classic Gucci red and green stripes; Miaou’s new Ballet capsule feels a little late to the party, but nevertheless, its square-necked tops, bow-tied capri leggings, and bubble skirts are undeniably adorable; Dehanche seems to be trying to ‘edge up’ its image a bit for FW24 with belts studded with piercing-like hoops, though there are also a ton of the classic pieces the label does best; Soft Services teams up with D.S. & Durga on a capsule of the former’s cult favorite buffing bars perfumed with the latter’s scent “Debaser,” a verdant, energizing fragrance with notes of fig and coconut milk; “the Teacup” bra and “the Brazilian” underwear are Cou Cou Intimates’ latest offerings, available in black or white as a set intended for everyday wear with a romantic sensibility; Dorsey introduces its PF24 collection of baubles ranging from crystal earrings to finely cut emerald necklaces; and my obsession with Baserange’s textile journey is titillated to discover its new viscose nettle underwear.

What’s on sale

Mara Hoffman’s closing is among the greatest gut punches to the New York retail landscape, but there are no other circumstances under which we’d find a sale like the one that’s currently happening—clothing and swim is priced up to 80% off, which is then discounted by an additional 50% off at checkout. I bought a fatigue-green popcorn cropped top in a size that was a bit of a bending of the truth, but at $80-something, if it works out the risk will be many multiples worth the reward. The sale—and site—closes August 18.
In more Tory news, TB extended its Private Sale by a couple days so you can still shop the extra discounts on already-discounted pieces, including some great bags: this pretty incredible floral-applique’d chain bag I’d never noticed before, a ’90s style black work bag, and several Radziwills I’m surprised to see on sale at all, let alone with the extra % off.
There’s a sale underway at F.Miller that’s pretty remarkable, if you know where to find it: $9 for the tinted lip balm with a cult following and $24 for the hair oil that many users have said replaced their perfume as their favorite scent are especially compelling deals. That’s 50% off all skincare from the brand with SPEEDSALE that runs until 3pm today, but if you will that cutoff, you can plug in MAGASIN and continue shopping through end of day. (Yes, that’s an exclusive baby!)
The thing about a gift card event that’s better than a traditional sale is that it nets you a “discount” on pieces that would never actually be discounted. Bergdorf Goodman’s current promo serves up Jil Sander bags, Manolo flats, and runway Marc Jacobs leather jackets while trying to shove $1,250+ back in your pocket.
If you want a trip down memory lane of past summers’ greatest hits, Rosie Assoulin’s summer sale has a curvy twill button-down decked out with the detachable rosettes that graced our athletic shorts last year, a ruffled maxi skirt that calls to mind the long-sold-out Rosette salsa dress, and other happy encores of the most romantic warm-weather motifs.
Now’s the time to figure out if you’re a hat person—the Janessa Leone archive sale is taking up to half off a comprehensive library of headgear, and if the very concept of a wool fedora or raffia bucket hat is enough to spook you out of your curiosity, these high-quality, sub-$200 options are a lower-stakes launching pad. A few ready-to-wear options like a pure merino wool sweater for $150 are similarly enticing.
Stand Up Comedy’s sales always have the deep cuts you wouldn’t know to look for—you might not even know they exist until you look; it feels like being let in on an exclusively-curated experience. Lace-dappled denim shift dresses by SC103, the sleeves of a windbreaker transformed into a sporty bolero of sorts courtesy of Vaquera, and a drawstring bucket hat with a very Baserange sense of humor, plus more, await.
An under-the-radar label homespun by two fashionable friends, Et Tigre, is taking 40% off its current season with FLASH40—its wares range from “demure,” as is the word of the week, with pull-on white maxi skirts and gingham dresses, to brash but sweet, like a sheer peplum slip dress.
Pretty much every food group of footwear is represented at half off in the Dear Frances summer sale, and many pairs, including camel loafers with sleek gold hardware; strappy heeled sandals; and cream slides topped with leather knots, are going for $300 or less.
The Dehanché “Stacked Sale” covers every belt base, taking up to 60% off everyday belts with special details, like a snakeskin print on rich brown leather for $130 down from $350, as well as outfit-making statement belts, like a contemporary riff on a corset in buttery croc print for half off.
There’s also: Elleme’s end of summer sale offers bags with a ton of personality, in a rainbow of ultra-specific shades, for up to 50% off; the G. Label sale seems to prove the boutique has fostered a better understanding of its customer base, offering solid picks from labels like Aeyde and Toteme for discounts reaching half off; Diptyque Paris’ archive sale returns with the greatest hits of holiday and limited edition scents past—use VAULT on purchases over $175 for a free ‘citronelle’ candle; take an extra 40% off a slew of pieces, including the perfect garden clogs (now under $50), in the last few days of the Gardenheir sale; and each candylike, blown glass “liquidish” at RiRa is €100 off at checkout.

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