241: Packing porn
Plus Tory Burch's Semi-Annual Sale, SSENSE sale plummets to 70% off, and the latest Jacquemus is already for sale.
It occurred to me just now when packing for Paris (where I’ll already be by the time you read this—holler if we should have a wine together) that it’s good practice to take pictures of your suitcase. In the Joan Didion “to pack and wear” way as a helpful reference for the next time you load up your bags and get out of town. But more interestingly, as a traceable metric of where your fashion head is at over time.
Like with that Didion list, people love packing content. It’s a real-life application of the desert island exercise, except instead of a single makeup product or book, you can bring as much as fits in a 27” x 21” x 14” cube, and the conditions of your island can vary dramatically (some islands are in fact cities). In short, people love an edit!
Over the seasons that I’ve traveled to Paris for fashion week, and even those I stay in New York for (I document these with pictures of the collapsible clothing rack that gets erected in my apartment for the occasion), those condensed capsule pics have changed in shape, color, size, and distance from what you could call my “regular wardrobe,” because my taste, access, and values have all changed, too. Also, that temporary rack became permanent (oops).
I’ve worn masochistic layers in New York’s ungodly summers (Orseund Iris boilersuit, Maryam Nassir Zadeh boots, Tuza net bag, about 100ºF), because it was important to me for every individual item to itself be a statement. I’ve put myself through impossible Paris outfit transitions (changing in the car from the airport into a Cecilie Bahnsen skirt, Dilara Findikoglu corset, G.H. Bass loafers to make it to the Issey show by the skin of my teeth), because looking editorial was my way of asserting presence.
Now, with my beige-ass suitcase, fleshed out with a few more of those pieces I wear on a regular Tuesday, I think what I’m approaching isn’t quiet luxury or whatever reductionism the palette tends to invite, but an easier way to achieve the impact that’s drawn a line through all the packing pics from over the years.
What lies within my luggage above will make itself known over the next few days in a special fashion week newsletter-within-a-newsletter, a self-takeover with daily updates on what me and
(it is men’s week after all) are up to and the shopping reconnaissance we’ve sussed out on your behalf.Stay tuned.
News Editor
takes over this weekWhat’s new
Jacquemus’ latest collection, now up for preorder on Moda Operandi, is titled “La Casa,” a reference to the venue at which it was shown but more fun to take as an ironic gesture toward the fact that the homestead is the last place you’d wear its operatic cape-jackets, strapless dresses with opaque peplum tops plopped upon sheer chiffon bottoms, and new colorways (including a thought-provoking zebra print moment) of the label’s infamous heel-on-heel mules.
Dries Van Noten’s AW24 collection is so on-the-nose it recontextualizes everything that’s come before it, duly investing in posterity leading up to DVN’s departure. Color play peaks in silk dresses that ruffle with uncanny pink and oxidized teal streaks, rosy velvet lends a pair of curve-heeled T-bar sandals the poignance of plush chaise lounges for feet—even short-sleeved sweatshirts in heather gray are coaxed into a certain romance, attentive to shape at their necks and hemlines.
Some of the pieces on offer at MyTheresa from Alaïa’s SS24 collection feel in step with the club-kid coquetry the label is known for—see a skeletal knit skirt or the inevitable mesh riff on its crescent purse—but it’s most thrilling to watch Pieter Mulier jump the shark a bit: almost vulgar V-toed mules like envelopes yet to be sealed, a Friar Tuck-ass terry hoodie, and a denim skirt that takes “drop-waist” very literally are joys to behold.
Though only available in limited sizes, the eight dresses in Cecilie Bahnsen’s archival bridal edit are worth a peek if only for inspiration. From flighty, like the Jezabel dress clustering in tiny florals around striking shoulder cut-outs, to the sturdy, unabashedly mattress-coded Amalie dress, this collection of unique pieces is fertile ground for pensieve brides.
Though it still knocks straightforward loungewear out of the park, Deiji Studios’ FW24 introduces welcome complications into the linen-and-poplin fray: collared shirts slit diagonally across the front then bandaged with tiny bows; apron-waisted, ruffle-edged pants printed in amorphous, aquatic florals; and ingeniously square-necked cardigans; to name a few, feel like harbingers of more exciting experimentation.
Not enough noise is made for the immense eroticism of the boat neck, so Kye Intimates’ SS24 collection is a refresher course, offering low-backed sleeveless tops and long sleeves in the high-necked style, plus matching bras, pull-on pants, and more, all in soft, moisture wicking bamboo fabric.
Furthering its agenda to infiltrate every aspect of our aesthetic lives, JW Anderson has launched a line of eyewear, namely sunglasses that largely pull inspiration from the label’s most iconic bags, like the Bumper (squared-off lenses with contrasting stripes around the rims) and the Twister (quirked-up cat eyes twirled along the temples), plus a new visual pun of a bag that’s just a tassel capable of carrying car keys.
For its second collaboration with J.Crew, Anna October zeroes in on “brides and their guests,” providing dress options from maxi slips in textured satin to mod shifts overlaid with pearl-studded tulle, plus waist-defining, tuxedo-style corset tops, wrappy cream blazers, and more distinctly contemporary wedding fodder.
Made by female artisans in Istanbul, Else Lingerie’s new Marie Collection introduces three colors—cream, black, and verdant pistachio—of v-wire plunging bras, lacy briefs, cut-out bodysuits, and more, all wearable in an everyday context but romantic enough to really Go Out in.
It’s heartening, especially after the recent Brandy Hellville reckoning, to see so many new borrow-based initiatives proliferating amongst online boutiques, now including Elysewalker’s “Borrow” program. You can, as it says on the tin, borrow deconstructed Christopher Esber skirts and funky, voluminous Ulla Johnson jackets for 14 days or more, then return them (even with minor wear and tear!) or choose to purchase them at a steep discount.
From the jump, it’s clear that the new Madewell x Lisa Says Gah capsule is inspired by a very Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants imagination of Greek islands, even if it weren’t spelled out in the page’s banner—camp shirts and matching shorts are embroidered with maritime imagery in a fresh shade of cobalt, also present in bead form in sets of two delicate pearl necklaces, plus many more vacation-y pieces.
There's also: Alaïa releases an “extra flat” paper straw hobo bag and matching double-strap ballerinas as per raffia-for-summer tradition; Marni unveils the new “Trunkaroo” bag, with a sturdy squared-off body and shiny ball clasp much more elegant than the 90s snack pack name would suggest; it’s always interesting when a higher-end brand “dupes” an iconic fast-fashion piece, as is the case with the new, Uniqlo-reminiscent Mansur Gavriel moon sling hewn in soft leather instead of nylon; Métier collaborates with Westman Atelier on a capsule of very Emily in Paris makeup bags and pouches—think navy stripes and initial charms; Gap x Dôen is back in stock with all the eyelet and pointelle you’d expect from such a union, most everything under the $100 mark; if you’re still not sure if you’re ready to talk swimwear, Matteau’s 2024 “Edition 01” might be an encouraging entry point, with plenty of classic styles at all different levels of coverage in warmed-up tones of brown and olive; Sunnei x Camper are about to piss a lot of people off (especially podiatrists) with a capsule of shoes sold in singles and designed to “fit either foot,” though the savvy color selections and detailing transcend gimmick; A.P.C. x Topologie brings French aesthetics to the rock climbing wall (thank god someone finally did it) with a capsule of phone cases, tote bags, and more at this questionable intersection; and Farrow & Ball launches a history-inspired wallpaper collection, handcrafted in its house paper and paint and based on the famous walls of the Château de Purnon.
What’s on sale
Tory Burch's semi-annual sale is now an extra 25% off—the biggest draw may be a now-$67 pair of Tiffany blue jelly sandals for those who prefer thong-style to the mesh flats that have been dominating Jelly Sandal Summer thus far, but $112 plaid pleated golf dresses, banana-colored crescent bags down to under $200 from $398, and $30 two-packs of tennis nerd crew socks are just as worthy of consideration.
The SSENSE sale is at its self-proclaimed apex, up to 70% off, and the number of full summer outfits to be hewn out of the most steeply discounted pieces is staggering—perhaps a MNZ-esque cardigan set from Paris Georgia for $132 down from $440 with a freaky-waisted Jacquemus miniskirt and shapely leather mules under $200 from a brand no one is checking for yet (Lado Bokuchava), or caramel poplin By Malene Birger shorts plus a Victoria Beckham one-shoulder tank and huge rubber flip-flops via Melissa, not a piece over $100?
Italist let us know that on top of new additions to its up-to-60%-off SS24 sale, pre-season FW24 items have begun to drop at up to 50% off, with tons of pieces starting at as much as 25% lower than retail—Alaïa jeans with the above-mentioned exaggerated drop-waist situation, shifty gold Paco Rabanne dresses already 40% off, and stalwart double-breasted blazers by Toteme all included.
Sometimes it’s fun to feel a little over-the top, Devil Wears Prada energy compressed into a sale, and Nordstrom’s private designer sale delivers on the dramatics in its shoe selection especially: the runway-tested, origami-toed kitten heels from Prada are a cool 40% off; as are the label’s most Brat-green mules; heeled and braided Bottega slides are discounted by 50%; corduroy Miu Miu penny loafers (pennies included) are down to $690 from over $1k; and more.
The La Garconne spring sale has some of the best deals around on relaxed summer neutrals—sub-$100 6397 tanks that pucker beautifully at the shoulders, 30% off parchment-colored nylon blazers and sturdy column-heeled mules via Lauren Manoogian, prim white but shockingly constructed Issey Miyake sculptural blouses in linen and manila hemp blends, and more.
Speaking of Issey, the Mohawk General Store summer sale has a sprawling selection of Pleats, Please in sizes that typically sell out on SSENSE and other more-trodden paths, plus Amomento “peasant blouses” that don’t feel passé; foldy, low-profile Hereu mules; a trove of mens’ Bode including embroidered trousers that feel like religious vestments for a Lower East Side fashion cult; and beyond.
Maxfield’s sale takes 40% off a selection of pieces that make all other boutique sales feel a little less stylish in comparison, like crunchy Comme des Garçons skirts covered in florals as off-kilter as in a vanitas painting; easy, turmeric-toned, loose-knit Elder Statesman tanks; and self-belting slip tops from Ann Demeulemeester.
Mara Hoffman’s denouement has ushered in its last sitewide sale, with a sliding scale of discounts ranging from 15% off orders over $300 to 30% off carts more than $700 full, with everything from its $20 Baggu collaboration to dozens of styles of the label’s famous popcorn-fabric dress (including smart details like lingerie straps so you can wear a bra even with wider necklines) still available in a large range of sizes and shades.
The COS sale continues with further reductions on over 150 styles, including a $70 sling bag in Brat green raffia, a similarly-colored ribbed tank dress for less than $50, a striped pajama shirt in silk and cotton that could easily be worn in daylight for $36 down from $120, and other great pinch-hitting deals for wardrobe holes and impromptu vacations.
Take 30% off a seasonless edit of Lauren Manoogian’s sale selection’s pleated leather and wood-carved clogs, a perforated crewneck offering a funnily sporty interpretation of the brand’s ethos, and self-belting fatigue pants in washed canvas are a few immediate standouts.
There's also: Melon rind-green, chalky lilac, and cerulean knits are cinched and pinched and discounted 40% off in the Rus private sale with RUSTHANKYOU; Little Liffner’s mid-season sale takes 30% off its asymmetrical corset belts, huge suede totes, and more trans-seasonal accessories; Dehanche offers 30% off its summer belts in chartreuse suede, with Brancusian metal buckles, and more; Camiel Fortgens’ ageless and genderless streetwear uniforms are up to 65% off in a rare online archive sale; the Shopbop sale takes up to 70% off a gamut running from Agolde jeans to summer sweaters from Zimmerman; another cashmere in summer hill to die on can be found in the Lisa Yang sale, taking 30% off a host of lightweight fine knits; and Viktoria & Woods’ sale takes up to 50% off a large selection of summer business casuals, from tan suits to subtly corseted button-downs.
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