233: Sohoasis

All Lauren Manoogian everything.

I wear a lot of Lauren Manoogian because I think the clothes suit me and I like the way they feel. The fabrics, judged by touch and by how they hang off the body, speak for themselves. But they draw attention from those who appreciate their technical prowess, too, like the textile professional in the dressing room behind mine who was peppering the staff with questions designed to garner information and at the same time share her own know-how. It’s a powerful trick to be able to inspire name-dropping by the refinement of your knits and weaves alone. (I once tried to learn the brand’s entire glossary of knits but realized fast that was an improbable pursuit.)

Many of you are reading this on your drives home from long weekends somewhere by the water, but I spent my own Memorial Day enjoying the city. On Saturday, I walked from Flatiron down to Soho, where all of my local friends had been replaced by French tourists and bridge-and-tunnelers. Lauren Manoogian’s new store seems cosmically situated to offer respite from neighborhood stimuli just outside, which on that day was almost unbearable.

I’d first seen the current collection at the brand’s showroom in Paris last year with co-owner Chris, but the clothes always take on new energy at retail (and it’s the first time they’ve had complete control over that experience), so it still felt new to me. A lot of things called out, and Mani set me up with a rack and gingerly laid out pieces on the bench inside the dressing room with such care and attention, I got the kind of ASMR rush usually reserved for YouTube videos of POV makeup tutorials. If you haven’t yet gathered: The vibes are quite good in there. Everything’s available online, but if you have the chance, go visit in person, too.

Belted Trench, $1,090 (on sale here, $654) / Ruche Ballet, $450 (on sale here, $225)

The narrative tension between this “fatigue” trench and the optic white ballerinas could snap a bridge suspension cable. I’m a prolific wearer of white shoes, but I’m realizing the potential that’s been left on the table not pairing them with stern, nostalgic army surplus shades. It’s like being both a soldier on deployment and someone’s girl back home.

The trench fastens at the hips and has an amazingly satisfying stiffness to it. The cushiony ballerinas are some of the most comfortable flats I’ve ever tried (likewise the suede version below), if any walkers among you are looking for a summer travel shoe. Size up a full number, though.

Double Knit Jacket, $590 / Rib Short, $250 / Suede Ruche Ballet, $450

I ended up leaving with this jacket, the short version of the double-knit trench I own two of (and which I talk about a lot on here). My problem is that I’m irreconcilably in love with this very specific sleeve width that can only be found at LM. This outfit, featuring knit shorts that I also wore in my Mohawk General Store visit, helped justify the jacket as a sensible summer purchase—I don’t care what anyone says, this counts as an outfit.

Gauze Twist Dress, $1,150 / Ruche Ballet, $450 (on sale here, $225)

A dress made of a single ream of fabric that dips down, twists at the hem, circles back up, and reconnects at the shoulders, with thoughtfully placed darts carving out a waist and minute folds making for a great asymmetrical collar. She’s very good.

Button Cardigan, $330 $470 / Trace Trouser, $710

When I saw these trousers at the showroom, I might’ve lumped them into a greater trend of nylon showing up in non-gorpy settings for the season. And while that may be true, it doesn’t satisfy as a complete definition of everything these pants accomplish. Actually putting these on makes me understand them differently.

They have the transparency of muslin, hold shape like cotton, and feel cool and smooth like silk satin—they don’t feel crunchy like nylon tends to, nor do they swish audibly when you walk. They’re completely enigmatic, and I wish now that I’d tried them on with the matching jacket because I suspect I’d be more surprised still at the kind of suit it would be.

The cardigan I styled them with, though, was also irresistible. Impossibly soft, wonderfully shaped, and with a row of buttons that runs all the way up the front to the back of your nape—for the headless wearer, I guess. Hilarious and charming.

Basket Dress, $414 $690 / Ruche Slide, $470 / Bindle, $730

This was the last of the basket dresses left in store when I tried it on, so I’m not surprised it’s nearly sold out everywhere now (though there’s one on sale in the same size I’m wearing at Net-A-Porter). Word is that someone with great taste and an unwavering sense of self wore this to the Met Gala; one of its organizers, I’m told.

Hand-Knit Bias Poncho, $690 / Gauze Twist Skirt, $850 / Suede Ruche Ballet, $450

This poncho(-as-top) is a memory that’s haunted me since I left the store, and I may have to return for it soon. It’s somehow all at once a baby blanket and a crop top and an elegant thing to be wearing around a pool at night when you’ve just stepped away from the party for a cigarette and a private conversation.

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