229: Below the fold
Plus Studio Nicholson launches bags, the SSENSE sale goes mass, and a MyTheresa discount code stack.
The shopping’s doing the talking this week.
Below, a Magasin-exclusive Studio Nicholson bag launch (!), Toteme collection (!), new Uniqlo collab (!), SSENSE sale expansion (!), and MyTheresa code stack (!) that’ll more than make up for my limited intro.
Bone apple teeth.
With News Editor em seely-katz
What’s new
SCOOP! Studio Nicholson launched its first-ever leather bags, and Magasin is here with the exclusive after a week or so of wear-testing. Like the brand’s generous, fabric-first clothes in clever silhouettes, SN’s bags—three variously sized styles—use a thoughtful, low-intervention technique of placing seams to create unfamiliar (as in: not referential to any other bags on the market) silhouettes. You won’t even find any hardware other than a concealed magnet at closure to provide extra security for your stuff inside or, as with my Doublet above, add extra dimension and intrigue to the brilliant way it flops open and closed. While the Doublet is so far the best suited for laptop-gym stuff-makeup pouch schlepping out of any bag in my collection (or easily imaginable for an overnight trip), the next in size, the Shiboru, is an elegantly ample everyday solution—to the mom who wrote into AMA this weekend asking about chic bags for toting around baby supplies, this is it. Lastly, the smallest Fortuna (with single a pleat on either side that pays homage to SN’s core pant feature) comfortably carries the essentials but sits most discretely against the body, either down by your side or crossbody-style.
I was listening to Delia Cai’s Throwing Fits episode this week and the notion that came up of menswear being approached like a sport (brilliant) is most recognizable in the womenswear world when Toteme releases a new collection. In the days since its PF24 landed, I’ve seen the chat light up with references to its new pieces with the same specificity and tone of collectors discussing trading cards. Its omni-platform fandom has surfaced the new clutch version of the T-lock bag and the iconic monogram silk shorts revived in chartreuse as the hit singles, and I—right there in the bleachers with them—am keeping burning tabs open of this gaping ankle boot (never thought I’d feel this way about an ankle boot since the Acne days), this twisted jersey tee that looks good from every angle, the piece de resistance leopard pony hair coat I’ll seethe about when I inevitably see someone who isn’t me wearing it, and a gray melange bikini I admit I just ordered after a few days spent considering this season’s swim options.
Uniqlo and Marimekko remind us of their twin flame status with a new collaboration featuring the former’s big-hitter styles—prolific crescent bag, swingy v-neck tent dress, and boat neck muscle tank at the forefront—in Marimekko’s summer-y classic prints: chubby splots fashioned into relaxed florals; thick, maritime stripes; modish rows of concentric ovals; and more mix-and-match friendly patterns.
“The Art of Dressing,” a joint initiative by Moda Operandi and The Frankie Shop, is a capsule of summer-ready styles from a selection of brands inspired by women artists’ and gallerists’ day-to-day uniforms. Consider: a diaphanous button-down and slippy midi skirt set hewn out of peachy silk chiffon (by the Frankie Shop itself), a leather Bottega take on the little brown bag forever evoking Bloomie’s, and Régime des Fleurs’ Moda-exclusive briny, floral Eau de Parfum.
Straddling the gap between Havianas and Melissa, the new jelly collection from Ancient Greek Sandals is now up for preorder, leather soles tethering straps glowing like lozenges in four different shades of a flip-flop style, plus four duly woven fisherman sandals if your feet need a little more structure than a thong can provide.
Paloma Wool has entrusted The Boys with its subtle, sensitive aesthetic, presenting PWman as its new line of menswear that doesn’t sacrifice the main line’s quiet precision: a perfectly faded pair of straight-leg jeans gleams is studded up the sides, an 100% cotton long-sleeve tee sports white racing stripes down dark gray sleeves, cotton twill khakis come with an understated wrap-around skirt to layer on top, and more soft-but-not-TOO-softboy picks are going quickly.
Everlane Editions’s fresh edit, “Destination Vacation,” is exactly what it sounds like—a warm-weather capsule featuring squiggly, lightweight knits in the form of textured crochet shorts, matching ribbed caftan tops, and a trove of easy dresses, most notably a bone-colored, raw-edged denim shirtdress and a nightgown-adjacent, tie-neck number in 100% Supima cotton that does Deiji Studios almost (if not equally) as well as the OG itself for a sub-$130 price point.
The latest Denim Forum edit by Aritzia features nearly nothing over $150 and covers all the summer-denim bases one could possibly imagine: a virtually perfect pair of dark-wash bermuda shorts one-ups a similar Saks Potts pair for over $100 less, bleached-out low-rise cargos look sweatpant-comfy without sacrificing the structural integrity of 100% denim, while denim bras and the sequel to the shacket, a dress-jacket (dracket? Or is that too much) have got you covered up top.
MyTheresa’s latest imports from Brunello Cucinelli seem to seek to define Summer ‘24 style, with stripy, button-up cotton silk playsuits; an official endorsement of the poncho, this one cable-kit and smattered with subtle sequins; shimmering, embellished upgrades to a Birkenstock-style slip on; wide-brimmed, malleable straw sun hats; and more pieces that capture an East Coast summer’s vibes with precision.
The newest season of Coming of Age’s silk taffeta and/or nylon-based, genderless casuals focuses on radical colorplay, its signature gingham done in bee-like black and gold for hip-bound “travel slings” and sturdy, knee-length pleated skirts; or a juicy combo of tomato red and aquamarine in no-frills hobo shoulder bags and lightweight hooded anoraks; plus solid-color options like a wide-neck dress in a nearly-holographic shade of jade or a pink pearlescent boat-neck top.
Running the gamut from black to olive to a swampier, more mysterious shade of green, Veronica de Piante’s first drop on Collection Four brings us drop-waist, bow-shouldered gowns in silk charmeuse, body-con vests with contrast edges hewn from wool twill, merino wool three-quarter-sleeve sweaters with sculptural collars that frame the neck with elegance, and more.
Lié’s new leather line, available for preorder now, includes four styles: a bucket-like tote, a contrast-stitched wallet with a detachable belt/strap, an accommodating wristlet/clutch, and a simple $60 keyring with a leather logo tag to use apart or in conjunction with any of the above bags, each of which are available in three colorways: caramel, deep cranberry, or straightforward black, inviting the creation of matching or mix-and-match sets.
Sweetly named for a Mazzy Star album, Vespertine’s capsule “So Tonight That I Might See” collects pieces as silken as Hope Sandoval’s vocals, designed for sultry summer evenings. A sheer black, tie-back camisole dress; a similarly see-through blouse ruffling in powder blue; and tiger-print French knickers all bring louche backstage vibes to otherwise-classic silhouettes.
Sea’s PF24 has arrived, bearing smocked lilac sundresses with thickly-rolled straps and necklines; drop-waist bubble midi skirts in khaki cotton; cropped and voluminous bomber jackets that bring to mind an infamous piece in the Loewe canon, though cheaper by over $2k; and linen slip dresses that flow into lace hems at the thigh, plus many more romantic warm-weather styles.
Agmes’ latest jewelry collection just launched with surprisingly realistic prices on twisty pendants threaded onto suede cords to perfectly frame the clavicle, uncomplicated “cigar bands” for those of us who like a statement ring without a drop of fussiness, the “Claudia Cuff” that might be the Gen Z Tiffany Bone Cuff, and dozens more low-key but unforgettable pieces in sterling silver or gold vermeil.
There’s also: The fourth delivery of Phoebe Philo’s second edit comes out today, sure to bring with it yet-unseen highs in both aesthetic specificity and prices; Shopbop’s exclusive Staud beach capsule takes inspiration from pool cabanas, sailor suits, ocean waves, and other such summer-y imagery and employs it in the creation of relaxed dresses and tees plus a large selection of swimwear; Liberty collabs have verged on cheesy in recent memory, but a collision with sock brand Comme Si proves anything but—poplin and silk twill boxers, pants, and button-ups awash with wallpaper-y florals; Mansur Gavriel continues its partnership with Stamperia Pascucci, releasing two totes, a pouch, a beach towel, and most delectably, a striped canvas ballerina; co-founder of Hood by Air, Shayne Oliver, presents a collaborative capsule with Jean Paul Gaultier at SSENSE rife with alien-like, pannier-esque hip bumps, oversized tees with smartly sculptural details, and suggestive mesh dresses; and Christopher Esber submits its bid for the 2024 jelly wars.
What’s on sale
The SSENSE sale goes mass, tearing down the wall that kept non-members out of its Private Sale (mostly). Discounts are not locked in, as I’ve seen some pretty incredulous pieces drop down to 40% off, only to be returned to full price a day later—which is to say, this is a time for action. I bought a Skims hoodie and sweatpants as a warm-up for a bigger shop I feel a-brewing, from a wishlist I’ll drop right here: a sheer gingham Acne bodysuit I shared at the top of the season (the coordinating capris just sold out—I regret waiting); Bode clown dress for half off; an Issey Miyake “washing machine” dress; a Meryll Rogge ruffle-neck tee for a steal at under $400 if the rumors are true that the designer is headed to helm up Dries; strappy Studio Amelia heels; a blood orange Guizio skirt for $112; Balenciaga Cagole bags for 35% off (??); and a Cawley leather jacket that raises my heart rate. On Private Sale, I can’t believe this Alaia bag is down to $1,600; I’m doubling down on the Lemaire slipper after seeing two pairs parked outside a chic open house I went to last week; and a gnatty Margiela cardi more wearable than Kim K’s Met Gala look.
A flash sale stack at MyTheresa dusts off last season pieces for up to 50% off, plus an extra 20% off orders over $300 (easy peasy). A $1,045 Joseph twill trench comes down to $417; a $3,690 Bottega cardigan coat becomes $2,214; or do what I did and get $387 Magda Butrym jeans and $100 Live the Process capris for under $300 altogether.
Dresses are the cover stars of the JW Anderson private sale, coming in textured midi form with a deep-v cutout that looks like the platonic ideal slice of pizza (in a graceful way), wool-blend tank dresses with padded swirls slithering around the chest and cheekily off-kilter hemlines, drapey grecian-style gowns that wrap around the body like a beautiful bandage, and 100% cotton polo dresses with hemlines askew, all a sweet 50% off.
Proenza’s Invitation-Only sale (you need this link) is on, extending a flat 40% off with FIRSTACCESS across, not the discards and undesirables, but the latest and greatest from the brand in healthy size runs. Its large Arch bag, Macrame tote, and an off-shoulder top I’ve been tracking across sites (none have it for less than here) will be fast to go.
Rejina Pyo’s Archive Sale parades out some of the brand’s best at prices that are hard to beat: a puff-sleeve trench, sky blue tie top, and creamy patent handbag are the stuff dreams are made of.
A rare sale from the Portland-based boutique Stand Up Comedy yields a trove of unique finds: a bra-ified polo from Vaquera, a Comme handbag in a juicy shade of grape purple, and “scrap pants” upcycled with skill by Janelle Abbott are just a few of the deep cuts available.
We needed to remind you of the LN-CC sale, now up to 70% off straw-woven Balenciaga basket bags, smutty Mugler bodysuits, simple Y-project gowns complicated with the addition of whiskery denim at the hips, and plenty of Salomon sneakers, like these in a springy shade of jade, plus a host of less warm weather-friendly pieces in case you’re a planner.
In the Paris Georgia end of season sale, get up to 40% off butter-yellow, one-shoulder gowns cut from Japanese sateen; scrunchy aquamarine tube tops that dip below the sternum; angular-soled wedge sandals in croc-embossed cobalt leather, and more resort-friendly togs.
Tons’ spring sale takes 30% off a curated selection of special, mostly unisex pieces at checkout—think tabi boots in Margiela’s new “anisette” colorway, the prolific (and largely sold out) Ottolinger x Puma shoulder bag in iridescent silver for $140, Marine Serre graphic tees, and a lightweight work coat by Yohji Yamamoto, for starters.
Suay’s 20% off sale cuts the cost of its famous, gem-toned corduroy body pillows; comfy “workwear” patchwork floor pillows (perfect for a casual coffee table dinner party); meticulously tie-dyed linen napkins; sweet flannel coasters made from upcycled scrap fabric ($23 for a set of four!) and more such special textiles.
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So many fun finds. This week the new launches are especially elevated.
The Studio Nicholson bags in suede are beautiful and luxurious. The non-suede ones look cheap. Maybe it's because they used grain leather.