225: This is a safe space for data nerds

Plus new New Tory, Yowie's sitewide sale, and shop Cindy Sherman's closet.

It’s been a tab-heavy week for self-professed “data nerds.” Thank you to everyone who reached out to say that Brand Rank is their favorite Magasin franchise (and to those who suggested automation tools—I promise to do my due diligence to make the process easier and even more interesting by next month).

A few other crucial intel drops synced up to illustrate a hyper-now state of fashion that looks and acts different than it did even a few months ago. Let’s investigate.

The other ranking

Parallel to Brand Rank’s publication, the shopping app Lyst mined its cache of user searches and leveraged social metrics to produce its first Lyst Index of 2024. Miu Miu stole first place in both the brand and product categories, where its New Balance 530 SL Sneaker shot up thanks to demand from both women and men shoppers (it’s sold out but the 574 corduroy is in stock), followed by its logo’d swim briefs and polo shirt.

Sister brand Prada swapped spots for second place—Lyst cites new editions of its Buckle Bag as notable movements during the period, though I’d argue its silk shoes (in Mary Jane and mule form) have been the breakout product of the season. I’m also so curious to know: Is anyone buying its Margaux knockoff? It doesn’t seem like it from where I’m standing.

Magasin darlings The Row (first place on Brand Rank, 16th on Lyst) and Alaïa (11th on BR, 19th on Lyst) also featured in the top 20, the former rising up several spots and the latter ranking for the first time; plus, its mesh flats were the fourth hottest product of the period. Balenciaga’s Rodeo Bag (the sixth hottest) advanced the brand forward four spots since last quarter, now in eighth place.

Prada’s new alpha

These findings get more texture when held up against the Q1 earnings that fashion conglomerates released from the same time frame. Not to mention all the easter eggs buried in their reports.

Both of Miuccia’s babies were looking good by the numbers, but as you might’ve guessed, Miu Miu’s were astronomical—89% up year over year (Prada was up 7%). The elder of the two, Prada, has had a place in three out of four Brand Ranks, while Miu Miu has only ever registered on the most recent, easily skipping past Prada’s ninth place spot into sixth place.

It’s been an interesting dynamic to watch evolve over the last few seasons, like the changeover of alphas in a pack. But with the leading spot cinched by Miu Miu across all fronts, it’s clear who’s top dog now. Its trend- and logo-driven strategy creates some tension against the “quiet luxury” positioning that a lot of other brands in the space (Bottega especially) are striving for as a prophylactic against economic doom and gloom. I think, for a lot of brands, being expensive is easier than being “cool.”

Deciphering LVMH

LVMH reported an overall 2% uptick in its fashion and leather goods business, which includes Louis Vuitton, Dior, Loewe, Loro Piana, and Celine. By the sounds of it, LV (which “made an excellent start to the year”) was among the more positively trending of the major houses, but the the report was maddeningly unspecific, leaving us to infer from the euphemistic language what’s selling: Dior had “remarkable creative momentum” (flat); Celine “continued to elevate the brand’s desirability” (up); neutral notes on Loewe’s Shangai exhibition (down); Fendi “expanded its Selleria leather goods line” (down); and Loro Piana “achieved excellent momentum in all its product categories” (up).

Loewe, in third place on Lyst, has held its spot since last year but doesn’t have a viral product on the leaderboard, further supporting that the brand may have moved laterally or fallen short in sales. Louis Vuitton, in 14th, is up two spots since the previous Lyst Index. Rimowa and Berluti, were awarded pleasantries including “experienced a good start to the year,” probably indicating stability and consistency, which I’d think would be the goal at this point for recession-immune labels that cater to a certain demographic.

The closest an LVMH property has ever come to appearing on Brand Rank is when Phoebe Philo, in which the conglomerate has a minority stake, released her second edit last month. But generally, most of the blogging we do around products of quintessential “luxury” caliber is via resale—and in fact it’s wild how cheap you can find LV Speedys on The RealReal.

An aside, but as a point of intrigue, one Vogue Business piece on LVMH’s report suggested that this year’s election could do more for the conglomerate’s bottom line than the French Olympics, of which they’re a premium sponsor. A lot to think about there.

Kering bears with it

Gucci, which held 11th in the Lyst Index quarter-over-quarter (and has yet to crack the Brand Rank 20) was down a flinch-worthy 21% in sales, the chatter often pointing to an expected Sabato De Sarno adjustment period, plus the fact that his stuff was so slow to land in stores that people couldn’t have bought it if they wanted to. The last time Gucci had a product on Lyst’s top 10 was in Q3 of 2022 (it was the 1952 Horsebit loafers), when it was also the leading brand overall at Alessandro’s hand. Even though Kering says ready-to-wear and shoes are doing well for the brand, a hero product from Sarno’s collections has yet to emerge…though I’m a fan of the 1955 Horsebit clutch.

Saint Laurent fared better, down only 8% in sales and inching up to number five on Lyst (its Panthos Sunglasses were in 10th for products, they’re very good), while Bottega Veneta dipped down 2% and held steady at number four; neither appeared on Brand Rank. Borrowing LVMH’s thesaurus, Kering’s update on McQueen was: “pursues its creative transition” (way down). And was the Rodeo enough to buoy Balenciaga while its Kering sibs slowed? If it did overall, it was thanks to North American shoppers, who drove “double-digit growth,” as Kering highlighted—I’ve had a lot of conversations that like to blame the Asian market for his uncancelability, but Demna’s rehab tour appears to be paying off at home.

Also slipped in discretely was mention of Brioni’s “double digit” growth—comfortably owning the market on the opposite end of the trend spectrum from Miu Miu. Amazing job to them for tapping Oscar Isaac as ambassador, that’s a brand fit if I ever saw one.

Coming soon

We’re still awaiting Richemont’s report (at which point we’ll find out how Alaïa fared), as with OTB Group’s (for Margiela numbers), and Dries Van Noten-owner Puig, plotting its IPO this coming month, won’t have to publish anything until it’s actually traded, so not ‘til Q2.

I’ll leave you with a question, before we move onto news: These figures…we love to see them. But does knowing the general state of a brand’s finances impact your likelihood to shop it? Sound off in the comments/replies.

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With News Editor

em seely-katz

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What’s new

Tory Burch SS24

• Tort Burch sent a handful of pieces down that runway for spring that made me choke down gasps. It took a while for styles to land on the brand’s site (I like that it takes its time releasing collections so they actually align with the season outside), but as of this morning, new New Tory is up. The incredibly well-priced T-strap loafers I zoomed all the way in on are among the greatest hits, alongside a mini mesh tote in four colors for less than $300. The hoop dress heard ‘round the world is back in stock (also in a more everyday single-hoop style), but this sequin column skirt is my personal grail of the lot…or maybe it’s this shell necklace.

• Out of the minds of Vogue and Self Service Magazine alums Sofia Bernardin and Sabrina Marshall comes ReSee auctions, a series of 24-hour sales with proceeds supporting women survivors of war. Bernardin and Marshall levy their unthinkable roster of connections, from Kim Kardashian to Cindy Sherman, to collect pieces like a ‘91 leopard print Alaïa coat and an archival Marc Jacobs gown, everything carefully cataloged and photographed with editorial savvy, ready to be fought over. 

• Pulling inspiration from Christo and Jeanne-Claude, the duo of sculptors known for their focus on wrapping objects or even entire landscapes in fabric, Rus’ SS24 collection is made up of deliberately genderless pieces that fold and pucker in on themselves with elegant interiority, from jacquard-striped polos with extra side buttons for kimono-like fastening options to crinkled, crepey vests with self-ties offering myriad styling interpretations—a collection that collaborates with its wearers. 

• Out of angular cuts in Italian cotton emerges Wardrobe.NYC’s 16th release, “Drill,” with a military precision visible both in its forward-thinking series of trench coats with hyperbolic collars and cuffs, brisk enough to stop short of cartoonish and available full-length or in a shapely crop, and its more seasonal offerings—boxy t-shirts are made muscular with shoulder pads and pencil skirts are sliced at a subtle angle, their hemlines sharp frames for the knees. 

• Rather than translating workwear out of the cubicle’s context as we’ve seen “office sirens” and Miu Miu emulators attempt, Aritzia’s SS24 “Babaton” collection sneaks streetwear back into the office, presenting bermuda shorts in prim pinstripes and businesslike drop-waist dresses alongside sub-$50 t-shirts and tanks that look almost tailored, certainly composed enough to hold their own amongst colleagues or slotted into a uniform.

• The ephemeral Parisian apparel project Cristaseya has reopened virtual shop for its 22nd capsule collection. Oversized Italian cotton shirting and elastic-waist boxers, a cropped silk sweater, and hammered silver objets made in collaboration with PORT enumerate the inventory that will sell out or disappear behind closed doors and defy any resale alerts you may ruefully set (spoken from experience).

• Lié Studios, the newcomer jewelry brand from Danish sisters Amalie and Cecilie Moosgaard, fills a price and style gap in the category; it’s simple without being forgettable and mostly falls between $200 and $600. An exclusive release with Net-A-Porter is granting expanded visibility to the deserving operation and introduces some of its best styles yet, including knotted chain necklaces and cross-cross rings.

• A less likely jewelry collaboration comes from Magasin favorite Agmes and the (also Danish) coffee shop Joe and the Juice. To announce the arrival of its a new breakfast menu item, Joe’s team tapped Morgan Lang, who ran with the egg-avocado pairing to create a more elegant design than fast-casual dining might suggest. The “Eggacado” Necklace Set features two halves of an ovoid that nestle together around a center sphere (that represents the yolk or the seed). The hales can be worn together around one neck or split in two like a friendship bracelet (perhaps for the food obsessed).

• The young denim label Nelle Atelier continues to serve the under-5’4” among us well with its new spring styles—a fresh, bone-white wash of its relaxed Claire mid-rise jean; the straight-leg, stovepipe Kate; and the drapey, wide-legged Laura; all designed to save shorter people a usually-requisite trip to the tailor.  

• If you, frozen in a winter mentality, still need a tangible reminder that we’ve moved on to warmer months, Sophie Buhai’s Jade Edit collects hand-carved chunks of the verdant stone in its various permutations as per Buhai’s gentle hand: drop earrings that create the illusion they squeezed through the lobe, a jade-centric take on the label’s iconic silver collar, and more, even beyond the contours of jewelry—jade-stopper flasks on leather cords are just as gorgeous.

• There’s also: Jamie Haller’s Knot Heels, known to superfans for their incredulous comfort levels, are available in expanded color offerings; Ash Hospitality Group’s Xavier Donelly collaborates with Backdrop on the interior decor company’s first wallpaper—it’s a fresco at your fingertips; those jelly sandals I spied at Ancient Greek Sandals’ preview last month (the best The Row equivalents I’ve seen, since I know you’ll ask) are finally available; Comme Si releases a Bermuda-length boxer in sustainable silk; Aimé Leon Dore’s new golf collection is a menswear answer to Miu Miu’s SS24, with stripy polo sweaters and v-neck vests going quickly to masc-leaning wearers of boat shoes; Piglet in Bed links up with Lisa Says Gah for a limited edition capsule of aprons and table linens embroidered and printed with springy picnic imagery; Gentle Monster and Kpop legend Jennie present Jentle Salon, a series of sunglasses ranging from subtle cat-eyes to very of-the-moment sport mode shades in milky pastels and chocolate hues, all of which can be decked out in charms like flocked bows, silver stars, and… capybaras? Ostensibly “Jennie’s imaginary friends”; another iteration of Melissa x Undercover offers a capsule of plasticine platform clogs and candy-colored loafers; the trifecta of sacai, Bunney, and Eug releases a capsule of merch embroidered with tulips, plus a skinny bucket bag meant to carry bouquets of the real thing; and idiosyncratic sneakerheads are well-fed this week: Daniel Roseberry created Schiaparelli’s first sneaker, a pair of high tops in ecru canvas capped with the label’s signature golden trompe l'oeil toes and a measuring tape design embossed around the sole’s edges, while Wales Bonner’s new Jewel sneaker, a biker-style velcro Mary Jane in silver leather lined with scarlet, is now up for pre-order. 

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What’s on sale

Yowie Sale

• The boutique facet of our favorite Philly hotel, Yowie, is offering 15% off its special wares at checkout—it’s as fun to browse as it is to buy the deftly-curated selection, ranging from summery wardrobe-fillers like leather Camper flip-flops and Carter mini skorts to bemusing and/or brilliant homeware, e.g. glowy Pastille plug-in lamps and a candle shaped like an anthropomorphic peanut, hand-painted face and all (its name is Lucy). 

• MKDT’s archive sale includes the amazing Noelle skirt I’ve worn and posted about many times before but have never managed to find online to link to (down to $117). It’s also selling its Caro Coat for under $400, Lotta Tank for $48, Daisa Dress for $315, and alarmingly nice Brisa Top for $219. My cursor is hovering over the buy button for a cart loaded up with the knit Karita Pants for $185 and the wool twill Priska Pants for $233.

• Organized into a loose rainbow, 12 pages of “event wear” already on sale at The Outnet get an extra 30% off—alongside a shimmering pile of accessories are sunset-colored satin slip dresses from Loulou Studio and Vince, both around the $100 mark; takes on a cream-colored minidress by Jacquemus in cotton piqué and Hervé Léger in ruched tulle, each over 60% off; Nili Lotan’s slinky and JW Anderson’s twisted takes on the LBD for under $400; and more. 

• The Saks Spring Sale offers diaphanous peach Staud dresses exclusive to the store, lilac Pleats Please tops, and square-necked linen Reformation tops, all for sub-$300, plus more than 450 pages of similarly springy gear at discounts up to 60%—lots of sundresses, woven straw, and chambray in the mix.

• Using DG30 at checkout, access the Guizio private sale, an extra 30% off the already-discounted pink silk cowl-neck gowns, flowery gingham bikinis, delicate pointelle shorts, and more that populate the shop’s sale section of retro-minded but grown-up summer wares.   

• Take $50 off orders of $250 and more in Paris Georgia’s sale with PGGIFT—along the lines of the the Paloma Wool of New Zealand, the Kiwi label has slouchy, asymmetric-necked day dresses; patent wedge flip-flops; and cocoa-colored sweetheart neck camisoles that embody the same casual romanticism at a comparable price point.  

• Nordstrom’s shoe sale is back, taking 30% off classic G.H. Bass Weejuns, pebbly leather Dansko clogs, camel-colored Teva sandals, Jeffrey Campbell’s straightforward take on cowboy boots, and over 5,000 other styles of footwear, many of which are comfort-forward enough for those of us reaching the age where supportive insoles are imperative.

• Almost all the denim at Good American is under $100 in its 30% off sitewide sale, accessible with FLASH30—among the few pieces above that price point is a pair of sheeny pink compression “leggings” ($125) that look suspiciously like the return of American Apparel disco pants, leaving much to consider as you browse.

• Using DG30 at checkout, access the Guizio private sale, an extra 30% off the already-discounted pink silk cowl-neck gowns, flowery gingham bikinis, delicate pointelle shorts, and more that populate the shop’s sale section of retro-minded but grown-up summer wares.   

• Take $50 off orders of $250 and more in Paris Georgia’s sale with PGGIFT—along the lines of the the Paloma Wool of New Zealand, the Kiwi label has slouchy, asymmetric-necked day dresses; patent wedge flip-flops; and cocoa-colored sweetheart neck camisoles that embody the same casual romanticism at a comparable price point.  

• Nordstrom’s shoe sale is back, taking 30% off classic G.H. Bass Weejuns, pebbly leather Dansko clogs, camel-colored Teva sandals, Jeffrey Campbell’s straightforward take on cowboy boots, and over 5,000 other styles of footwear, many of which are comfort-forward enough for those of us reaching the age where supportive insoles are imperative.

• Almost all the denim at Good American is under $100 in its 30% off sitewide sale, accessible with FLASH30—among the few pieces above that price point is a pair of sheeny pink compression “leggings” ($125) that look suspiciously like the return of American Apparel disco pants, leaving much to consider as you browse.

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