220: Menswear forever ∞

Introducing Louis Cheslaw, Magasin's new menswear columnist—and hear from Nick Dierl on how he wears it.

Apr 19, 2024

Menswear has been part of Magasin since day one. But never until now has it been granted its own real estate where we can celebrate the players and perspectives that make men’s fashion great. In a dedicated monthly send,

Louis Cheslaw

will surface choice products worth your consideration, explore larger conversations shoppers are—or should be—having, and tap a smart dresser to share how he wears it.

First up…

Less than half the price of Margiela Replicas, and a little less everywhere than Onitsuka Tigers (still wonderful!), these Reproduction of Found 1700L German Military Trainers are still pleasingly low to the ground and pair quietly and confidently with every trouser I have. I’ve had mine for three years—I’m wearing them in the picture below—and the leather is only getting softer.
Not content with already making the best-fitting men’s tee—see our interview with Nick Dierl at the end—Lady White Co. is also producing the pants every guy I know wants to wear right now. Loose but still manageable, with the perfect ratio of drape to structure, I’d stock up while all sizes are available.
I just treated myself to this Barena Black V-Neck Sweater, after being unable to stop touching it in Trunk. Made from the crunchiest cotton-linen blend, it weighs nothing in a bag, and can be worn with or without something underneath. (If you like how that sounds but prefer a crew, Anglo-Italian’s Ice Cotton Crew Neck—with a very flattering higher-than-usual neckline—is your man.)
These Our Legacy Third Cuts are my other spring splurge… So soft, so comfortable, and in a faded pink that’s truly addictive to wear. If I can break away from black and blue jean orthodoxy, anyone can.
So, boat shoes. Gabbriette’s in Miu Miu’s, Declan Rice is unexpectedly in Aime Leon Dore’s. The much-publicized trend rolls on, which only means that sooner than we know, it will be finished. I’d skip all the anxiety in favor of these stunning handmade suede bluchers from Yuki Matsuda’s Yuketen (in a similarly appealing light suede to the Miu Miu’s).

Off to the races

Hi! I’m Louis, your new Magasin menswear columnist. As a reader since the newsletter’s first send, I am so happy to be here.

In every edition but today’s, this section is going to be an exciting place for featurettes that go a little deeper into what’s on my radar (and floating in the men’s fashion air) each month. That will be followed, as it is today, by short, rec-heavy interviews with a guy who has great taste. But before we plunge into that world, I feel it’s only fair to tell you a little about me, and what I like.

This is not my first time covering men’s fashion. My last full-time job was at New York magazine’s The Strategist, where I was initially a staff writer leading the menswear beat, testing hundreds of T-shirts, socks, and jeans myself, but also bothering the best-dressed people I knew (both socially and parasocially) for their recs. I learned a ton in that role, but when I later became a print editor and worked on the Look Book, I was reminded that many of the world’s most natural dressers—from dock workers, to cricket umpires, to weekday sunbathers—often really aren’t trying so hard.

My own uniform is pretty consistent year round: a smaller sneaker or dress shoe, a looser trouser, and then a more fitted tee, shirt, or sweater up top. Because London, where I live, is mild enough to ride a bike most days of the year, this is just the most practical silhouette for me, giving me plenty of room in the leg but a slightly more together appearance above the belt. Growing up, my German-English mother also didn’t love it when I left the house wearing more than two colors at any one time, something I have to admit has stayed with me. (It means I struggle to wear logos and graphics, unless I’m bringing sportswear or a band tee into the mix.)

Like most of the guys I speak to, there are a handful of designers whose collections I seem to find a touch easier to wear and feel good in, year after year. Lady White Co., Margaret Howell, mfpen, Another Aspect, and Snow Peak are among them. But I’m typically guided more by the colors and cuts I know work for me than loyalty to any one brand. And honestly, most of the purchases I make tend to follow a conversation I’ve had with someone. Like the time someone who worked at Arc’teryx told me every staffer spends their first clothing allowance on an Atom Hoody, so I saved up for one for myself. Or when I was told, in a Dublin pub last October, that you’re not Irish unless you own multiple pairs of “unkillable” O’Neill’s gym shorts from your school days. I grabbed a pair before my flight home the next day—$17, and still so comfortable.

Introducing this column on Throwing Fits last week, Laura described me as someone who can “speak to a lot of different scenes, without being beholden to them.” I quote this not to gas myself up, but because I think she summarized better than I ever could what I want you to expect from my coverage going forward. My hope for this column is that we will always be tapped in enough to know what’s going on, but not so gullible that we embrace every trend, or forget that real style—not to mention responsible shopping—means always buying for the long-term. Magasin has walked this line so well for the last three years, and I intend to handle this baton that’s been passed over with the same care (and of course, love of the hunt) that you all come here for.

How Nick Dierl wears it

Nick Dierl doesn’t put himself out there. The co-founder of public relations company Orienteer, his job is to instead get the right attention for his artists: Tyler, The Creator, Dave, Yung Lean, Freddie Gibbs, King Krule, Noname, Popcaan... Really, he’s only on my radar because in 2022, Lawrence Schlossman told The New York Times that Dierl was the “mayor” of Los Angeles. I followed him when I read that, and for the last year and change have taken real notice of how he puts his outfits together (not to mention how much he gets outside into beautiful nature). I’m honored that he’s speaking about his style for the first time with Magasin.

What do you have multiples of?

Lady White Company’s Our T-shirt. At this point, they’ve replaced every other white T-shirt I have, and I have a few in other colors too. The fit is just perfect. Previously, all of the white tees I’d wear as a base were a little longer and a bit baggier. Their more cropped fit works really nicely.

Also, the New Balance JJJJound 990 V3s that came out two summers ago. I have those in a few different colorways. The two that got the most burn were one in a couple different shades of green, and another called the Montreals, that were just a couple of shades of brown.

What’s the uniform right now?

The main bottoms are from a brand called Henry’s. Their Generous Cut blue jeans are definitely the biggest of the pants that I wear on a regular basis. Keith Henry has a really amazing sense of style that exists outside of the hype discourse—at this point I own one of every style he’s made in the last few years. There's also a designer from just outside of Vancouver called Dana Lee Brown who's amazing. She makes everything on Bowen Island, which is just out into the sound. I wear her crewneck sweatshirt most days. And then Australian brand MAN-TLE makes this kind of gorpy, slightly more outerwear-feeling version of a casual suit jacket, which has also been in the mix.

What’s creeping into the uniform?

Increasingly, striped button up shirts. I love Colbo’s in-house line, though I guess more recently I bought a button up from Our Legacy—their 70s shirt, which has kind of an oversized collar that I think is pretty fun to play with.

What’s the newest addition?

I bought my first real pair of boots that aren't winter boots recently. They're from Lemaire—their western style Chelsea boot. I’ve come around a little bit later in life on hard-soled footwear, and I have to say these are really empowering, which has been a really pleasant surprise. They also don't zip on the side, which was always sort of a hangup for me.

How about on the trails?

I definitely will opt for a more technical pair of pants. I have a great pair of fishing pants from South2 West8, and more often than not if I’m hiking, running, or snowboarding, I'm wearing one of Patagonia’s Capilene shirts.

Any crossover?

The Salomon Broken Arm X-Alpages collaboration. The shoe is red, pink, white, brown, and black. It's a lot on paper, but they're so beautiful and I've been wearing them nonstop for the last six months, wherever I am.

What’s next?

Jewelry hasn't really been something I’ve worn. I’d never worn a ring in my life until I got married, and it’s funny to say out loud, but it felt like a very big adjustment at the time. Though it didn't take very long for me to realize that it would be pretty easy to introduce more. I feel like something for my wrist feels right. My friend Maggie Simkins made our wedding and engagement rings, and I’d love to work with her to design it if she’d be gracious enough to. Though she has become very, very in demand in the last few years.

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