171: All the news that's fit to punctuate two weeks of sale coverage
Plus Phoebe chapter two, a Colin King bedding collab, and Toteme introduces jewelry.
Sale content ennui? Don’t worry, this send is just news—all the launches, collabs, and other updates we glossed over during the last couple weeks of BlaFriCyMon coverage.
But FYI, just because it’s now GiTu (“It’s Giving Tuesday,” said the terminally online way) doesn’t negate the fact that brands are still discounting their way through CyWk (said similarly, “I’m Cyber Weak!!!”). If you see me hammering harder than ever on the Deals Spreadsheet, that’s why.
For everything else, keep reading below the fold.
What’s new
I gave myself until noon today to hold the newsletter for Phoebe’s second delivery of A1 (the first one came at 11:04am). But it’s not here yet, and after the thud with which delivery one landed, I don’t think it’s worth keeping you from all the other news. My guess: We’ll have more $10k+ pieces to balk at, some more accessories under consideration, and a slower sell-out time (notice how nothing from first drop has made it to resale? I don’t even think the scalpers saw an opportunity). I’ll keep the graphic above, though, because after all, the imagery has been far and away the most compelling part of the whole re-Phoebe ordeal.
I mentioned it during sales coverage, but in case it got lost in the shuffle I think it’s worth revisiting the news that Vestiaire Collective has expanded its ban on fast fashion. I don’t think it’s a coincidence that the broadened policy hit the wires and its social campaign went a little viral just before Black Friday—the whole idea being to use their position in the middle of a piece of clothing’s life cycle to sway the decision making happening at the beginning. And cutting brands with low nutritional value off from their resale potential is already supported by internal research to sway shoppers away from landfill bait like newly blacklisted H&M and Urban.
I thought all the beauty advent content I would do in this newsletter was behind us (TBH I hadn’t planned on much), until I saw that SSENSE made one. It’s not even a true advent, though I guess neither are Violet Grey or Net-A-Porter’s, but it does one better by delivering everything in a mesh By Far tote that’s very beach. At $215, it’s mostly minis, but of things you can really stretch the use of—fragrances you’d actually consider buying in 50 ml, peels, eye cream—and full sizes where it counts, as with Byredo lipstick and Humanrace cleanser (I have it in my shower rn).
Jamie Haller brings back its heavily waitlisted collaboration with Emily Ward and Louisa Pierce or interior design firm Pierce & Ward—a run of woven leather “intrecciato”-style loafers (in black, brown, and checkerboard) and tassel loafers in camel and pomegranate pink. The brand is cautioning of another quick sellout situation.
A very correct commenter replied to my babouche boots story to point out that Martiniano was behind the current wave of this shape. Which is absolutely the case. The LA-based brand behind the paper-thin, slipper-like leather shoes that form to your foot has uploaded a new delivery of Glove heels and boots to site, where it’s apparent they’re still doing it best.
Colin King could sell me anything, but I feel especially compelled by the latest collaboration from Instagram’s favorite interiors guy and home linens brand Cultiver: three heavyweight Portuguese linen bedcovers cut to exacting proportions that hang all the way down to the floor on all sides of a king-sized bed with maybe a half an inch or less to spare, $600 apiece.
Extreme Cashmere’s edition 26 is steeped in the energy of New York City as modeled across the site—an older lady gracefully descending into a subway station sports a v-neck sweater with a structured collar, a skater hottie popping ollies in Washington Square Park wears a heathered gray double-zip hoodie, and many more knits in colorways from Crayola-bright to neutral are modeled by the kind of NYC figures we love to peep in passing.
The Kyoto ceramic studio Suna Fujita collaborates with Loewe on a fantastical capsule that Ghibli lovers who missed out on prior Loewe collabs will adore. A page is taken from J.W.Anderson with a penguin-shaped leather shoulder bag, animals real and imagined dangle from Loewe’s signature puzzle purse, an unidentifiable skull is embroidered onto a wool-mohair scarf coat, and a boy dances with pandas and butterflies across a pair of dark green babouche slippers.
Uniqlo’s capsule with revered Japanese-designed workwear brand Engineered Garmentsconsists of a utility jacket, a bomber, and a hooded coat, all unisex and all kitted out with attention to detail—buttons, pockets, and zips were obviously chosen with care on these hardy winter pieces. Everything clocks in under $150.
Moda Operandi highlights the brands that stood out in Lagos’ Fashion Week with a Trunkshow showcasing Kílèntár, with dramatic spring/summer gowns like piles of curly white foxglove petals and shimmering scales of a rainbow fish at price points under $1k; Orange Culture with genderless handwoven macrame tops in a fiery red-orange; and dozens of other pieces from Nigeria and Kenya that make it clear Lagos Fashion Week is unmissable.
Salter House’s collaboration with Hannah Kristina Metz takes the cottagecore shapes favored by the Atlantic Ave boutique to an even more fairytale-like level, employing organza in giant-sleeved blouses and sheer bloomers, plaid cotton in milkmaid-style dresses, ditsy print corsets, and more mix-and-match pieces designed to outfit both the winter’s boudoir-bound yearning and the inevitable romance of spring.
Toteme’s debut jewelry collection offers some of its minimal, everyday-wear silhouettes in gold-plated brass, but its focus is on pieces in 18kt gold—some with diamonds, like the one dotting a signet ring recalling an understated exclamation point, some simply gold, like a 15-inch crew-neck chain.
Simkhai launched its Holiday Marketplace, full of whimsical homeware in the vein of Gohar World—springy egg cups, vintage vases meant for a single bud, and stainless steel, TV dinner-style platters by Ananas Ananas are all gifts that might bewilder, but not without delighting.
It might seem like just yesterday that Presley Oldham was a freshman jewelry designer, but he’s graduated to a section at TheRealReal, where dozens of his glass and pearl-beaded concoctions can be found in the dozens, some discounted to under $200 from original prices over $300.
The new Jacquemus “L’Enfant” capsule offers color-coordinating sweat sets, corresponding bucket hats, shirts with enough pockets to fit myriad talismans of chaos (should probably be checked for snails before washing), jeans that will have their swag too different, and more at prices that, in our post-BFCM haze, seem somewhat comprehensible (and will shake to the core whomever gets their hands on the hand-me-downs).
Emporio Armani x Our Legacy is very catboys-to-the-front, both in its text (watercolor cats lounge together on a poplin collared shirt, and curl around each other in a yin/yang style necklace set) and in its subtext, with cute dork round-frame glasses, a retro felt-and-leather beret, and a score of quickly selling-out knits and jackets that cater to the self-aware softboys among us.
There’s also: This is for the NY locals, but Linnea Lund (Swedish brand behind my treasured cashmere tee) is popping up in Nolita for the next two weeks, definitely worth scheduling into your gift-shopping crawl; inscrutable Ana Kras is out with another homeware collaboration, this time it’s minimally Bauhaus mirrors alongside Bower Studios; the founders of The Kooples launch Veynd, an athleisure brand that reads as Skims’ dark-sided twin; Fruity Booty launches RTW clothes—little lace camisoles, lounge sets, brash boxers and flirtatious cocktail dresses; Casio is reviving its G-Shock watch with a vibe assist by Online Ceramics (it’s covered in haunted little mantras); Ancient Greek Sandals goes the way of the Birkenstock with a new shearling-lined collection of slides and slip-ons; the Cariuma x Marie Kondo sneaker collab isn’t clear as to how it will help us tidy up our wardrobes, but it’s understated and classic; and the NTS Radio x Highsnobiety Capsule Collection features lime green knits, fleece jackets, and watercolor graphics by George Addy.
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With contributions from News Editor Em Seely-Katz