114: Chloë Sevigny sold me fake Gaultier

To be fair, she did warn me...Plus Miu Miu's sexy summer capsule, Fendi x Marc Jacobs, and a Yuhan Wang archive sale.

May 16, 2023

I’ll keep things brief up here, as it’s a busy week for launches and sales. And on top of that, I’m also introducing a new franchise called Report Back. I’m thinking of it as a space for shoppable observations from scenes of interest, real boots-on-the-ground-type reporting that I’m excited to deliver more of soon.

In today’s first-ever Report Back, you’ll find the sights, sounds, and shopping links from this past Sunday’s #neverworns Sale of the Century featuring Chloë Sevigny.

“I have a bit of anxiety—I want all the kids to get in and get something they like.” - Chloë Sevigny

I also speak to editor and seller Lynn Yaeger and host Liana Satenstein, cop to buying knockoffs, and lose track of how many tabis I counted in the twice-around-the-block line to get into the sale. Scroll below the fold for the full recap.

What’s new

Miu Miu is plotting another scantily clad summer, per its L’Ete collection. The capsule weaves its way through underwear, menswear, and sportswear, affixing its cache-carrying logo onto an otherwise minimalist, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy-worthy wardrobe ready for a weekend at Camp David. A black-and-white crochet bra is bound to be the biggest coup among the TikTok set (even if they’ve already bought the sandal-boots).
Jean Paul Gaultier’s Flowers collection [“Florals for spring” joke redacted out of respect for your time and energy] deploys the designer’s psychedelic prerogative upon Rococo rosebuds blooming out of trompe l’oeil torsos on slinky viscose long-sleeve tees and glowing out of see-through dresses against dark panels, resembling shards of an 18th century painting, floating in the void after an overzealous use of the Photoshop erase tool. Coquettish cuts of denim like this zip-up corset counter the diaphanous florals with the material’s structured hardiness, maintaining an air of aughties romance with contrast stitching and lace-up details.
The no-brainer selection from Pamela Anderson’s collection with Frankie’s Bikinis is, of course, a bombastic red one-piece cut so high and so low in all the requisite places that it manages to fully honor the frenetic appeal of the actress’ iconic Baywatch suit. Aside from the cartoon-eye-bulge-inducing main event, the collection is surprisingly demure, with lace florals and henley-style buttoned necklines for the Bettys among us, though each piece still bares an amount of T&A that would send Archie and the gang into hysterics.
Fendi’s relevance grab for Resort ‘23 counts collabs with Tiffany & Co., Sarah Jessica Parker, Porter, and lastly Marc Jacobs, whose tribute to the brand’s anchor accessory, the “Baguette” Bag, has finally gone live. The capsule sees the iconic ‘90s purse iterated in denim, canvas, neon leather, and in keychain form. But it also riffs on the shape, assigning it to new roles such as the pouch on a cotton hoodie, the motif of a silk scarf, and dangling in many shapes and sizes off a belt.
Tory Sport is benefitting from whatever indecipherable glow-up main line Tory is experiencing, its tennis new arrivals a pinpointable piece of proof. The styles, but also thankfully the prices, are a little more relaxed than runway: a preppy merino v-neck sweater for $328 and matching skirt for the same, a just-short-enough pleated skirt for $148, and lifeguard-red canvas shorts for $228.
Skims launched bridal in two styles—mesh and silk. With prices ranging from $18 for a micro-thong to $198 for a robe and shorts set, I’m actually impressed how attainable it kept things, with most other brands opting to gouge special-occasion shoppers with the so-called wedding tax.
If during the warmer months you crave volume in your looks that the hot-weather rotation of tank tops and slip dresses can’t provide, Patou’s capsule for MyTheresa is full of frothy poplin dresses, bouncy miniskirts, and gigantic embroidered collars that allow for spaciousness and drama on even the sweatiest days. On the less Madame Alexander-core side of the collection, Patou throws its jaunty little cap in the ring of sailor-inspired garments with a cotton shirt featuring a strikingly dipped neckline and matching culottes to be worn if you want to look so charming that the sirens forget to shipwreck your dinghy.
It’s Gimaguas season! Though its knits and quirked-up casuals are perennially pleasing, the brand’s bright hues and tendencies towards sheerness serve its High Summer capsule especially well. A flippy little pleated dress with a subtly wavy hem stands out, as does a t-shirt shaped like a strategically folded scarf and doused in a winning combo of red-orange and pink, ditto the crocheted accessories—the skullcap agenda grows ever more convincing, but consider: a snood?!
From cerulean one-pieces with flattering but practical scoopnecks that deftly evade the threat of a nip slip to mod, ruched swim skirts, Brandon Blackwood’s debut swimwear collection cut from SPF 30 fabric is a welcome answer to the age-old parent-ism: “Can you really swim in that thing?” Each piece is designed for functionality without yielding an inch to dullness—even the swim thongs won’t betray your crotch to Poseidon, with thick, sturdy waistbands designed to stay put and look hot on people of all body types.
Tamara Mellon is bringing in a new perspective, through the eyes of her very Gen Z daughter, Minty. The duo’s first collab is a simple but hugely successful ballerina and Mary Jane, available in patent leather and satin.
Cawley Studio put its penchant for billowy taffeta things to fitting use with a first-ever bridal collection featuring staggeringly stacked layers of ruffles, teensy ribbons affixed en masse to silk knit cardigans, and skirts that shirk their responsibility to fit through door frames.
The Ganni Vacation Shop is open and stocked with all things poplin—this drapey v-neck dress gets its sleeve proportions so right—and a gamut of sandals, from nylon-and-velcro workhorses with baby pink soles to strappy, square-toed, bejeweled slides that jibe equally with jean shorts and summer gowns and are compact enough to slide into a tote bag, fending off footwear emergencies.
Luar’s spring/summer offering is a much-needed tribute to those of us who will be spending more time in an overly air-conditioned office than in a balmy breeze this season, with its Ana bag sized way up for serious toting (and available in a rich, vibrant cobalt), yet another take on the year-defining dalliance between skirts and pants in the form of office-appropriate trousers spilling pleats out of the front seams, and an avant-garde button-up belted across the chest for “creative” jobs that double as de facto fashion shows.
Influencer and designer Pernille Rosenkilde created a capsule for Anthropologie that pays homage to her epic (in the Homeric, not YouTuber, sense of the word) closet—if you haven’t seen it yet, steel yourself against lust and click here—with prismatic tulle dresses, skirts with huge, butt-adorning bows, and…one really weird poplin shrug. And shrug you must at that single miss, because the collection’s houseware more than redeems it with hits like glee-inducing striped pillows and coupe glasses sprouting delicate flowers from the stems.
Maje and Éliou teamed up on the Tropical Purple capsule, interpolating the color into paisley-print dresses, beaded necklaces, and more alongside fringey, crocheted purses in complementary cream and pearl-encrusted shell earrings.
Cecilie Bahnsen whipped up a batch of babydoll dresses for Matches, two being a baby-blue gown guaranteed to surface as someone’s Bridgerton costume this Halloween and a regal, ruffle-necked number ready for a Proustian moment of summer ennui.
Broderie Anglais is expressed in marigold and deep-horizon blue in the Chloe x Eres beachwear capsule. Reformed bohemians and minimalist vacation moms, this one’s for you.
Mugler’s H&M collection is almost entirely sold out by now, having launched its practically unchanged silhouettes on the 11th—which is all well and good because I’m still angry at them for copy-pasting the pants I bought at full price to make a lower-quality lookalike for all the world to own.
There’s also: Saint Laurent gets into the fine jewelry game with cheeky, logo-baring pieces starting under $300; Stamperia Pascucci x Mansur Gavriel’s collaboration comes back for a new season, this summer’s hand-stamped totes available in numbers of just 100 each; Attersee’s partnership with Drogheria Crivellini last summer set off a headline-worthy chase for the Italian brand’s slippers, at least in New York—now, they’re back for another season with new textiles; La Garçonne is now stocking Armentières-based linens brand Charvet Editions, if you’re looking for not-Tekla kitchen towels and the like; Agolde introduces the Fusion jean, an even lower-slung version of its famed Baggy; in its first-ever dress capsule collection, Everlane serves us olive-green linen shifts, peachy satin gowns, and caramel-striped caftans to whet our palettes for future frocks; Blumarine’s Suicoke collab challenges us not to twist an ankle in its hyperglam platform slides with sporty details; Roxy x Kate Bosworth for Urban Outfitters provides Blue Crush nostalgia sans the mildew of a decades-old rashguard from the back of your closet; Olderbrother comes out with its collection “Pervasive Bloom” featuring new iterations of the brand’s gorgeous, handmade utility gear; leftover yarn is given a chance at happiness beneath your feet in Cold Picnic’s new collection of deadstock-sourced rugs; CUUP introduces the Scoop underwire and Plunge wireless one-piece swimsuits, both designed to secure your chest (while still showing it off); the beachwear at Sunnei vibrates off the screen in bright colors and timeless shapes; and a stack of quilts sewn from leftover A.P.C. and Sacai fabric scraps are heirloom-worthy investments or extremely luxurious picnic blankets.

What’s on sale

Yuhan Wang’s spring archive sale contains pieces self-aware of their thingness. The recontextualized materials—satin printed with bunches of grapes like your grandparents’ best tablecloth, dainty floral lace, prim cream-colored tweed—are activated with sculptural gestures that imbue the everyday fabric with a ghostly humanness. The satin gathers into a bunchy, puff-shoulder princess gown, the lace ripples out of the collar of a sheer blouse, and the tweed frays and flares into a skirt, invoking the anthropomorphic magic of an antique curtain warped from the sun, a rug that looks like a sleeping monster in the dark, a couch cushion that remembers the weight of its owner.
The SSENSE sale—if you hadn’t already heard somehow? despite the extensive primer I sent out just days ago?—is back. Officially back, not like just Private Sale back (though its Private Sale is still running in the background, offering items that are mostly unable to be advertised at such low prices based on contracts with brands). No new sale items since yesterday, but check back here next week as discounts begin to drop.
The Outnet’s perma-sale status just got urgently more shoppable now that over 1,500 pieces have been christened with an additional 40% discount. Rosie Assoulin, Ganni, Nicholas, Jil Sander, Miu Miu, and even Prada have pretty robust selections eligible for the extra, almost-half-off discount that tends to bring things down to almost 80% off.
With the power vested in us by the copy/paste tool, we cordially invite you to Proenza Schouler’s “by invitation only” private sale. The pieces on offer are up to 40% off and range from grails like a tiny, tangerine-toned PS1 purse to classics—a little black dresses dripping with fringe—and everyday, bang-for-your-buck basics like chunky leather mules. If you’re south of the equator or just a very disciplined planner, the sale includes a swath of cool-weather holdovers like tie-dyed jersey long-sleeve tees, oversized cashmere turtlenecks to disappear within, and a velveteen gown that belongs at a Sofia Coppola-themed prom.
Bona Drag’s on it with another sitewide flash sale with FLASH20, bringing everything, including sale section pieces, down by 20%. Strategize by shopping some new-in—like Martiniano heels and Nia Thomas crochets—to further discounted MNZ dresses and Lauren Manoogian pants.
Rare antiques and collectibles site 1stDibs is hosting its Design Lover's Sale, an up-to-60%-off clearout of mostly furniture (get a Togo couch or a Sottsass mirror), with a few great fashion pieces in the midst: a Chanel dress, Elsa Peretti for Tiffanys necklace, YSL top, et al.
Nordstrom’s Designer Sale is on, so do yourself a favor and skip right to SPACE before looking at anything else. Herein lies the good stuff. A few instant cart-worthy pieces: a Simone Rocha party dress, Comme des Garçons skirt, Shushu/Tong midi dress, and an All Is a Gentle Spring corset top via Cafe Forgot.
Maison Margiela’s Private Sale requires you to create an account to see the deals, and once you’re in, there’s a ton of clothing for around 50% off, starting at $66 for socks. If you’re wondering about tabis, there’s a pair of gorgeous Mary Janes for under $700, but you’re probably better off at the SSENSE sale.
Nanushka’ private sale takes 40% off a bubblegum-colored scarf top, a no-nonsense pleated shirt dress, and a wrap belt that VERGES on skirt territory, and much more seasonal and seasonless stock with LM5GPH6.
Merlette’s Resort ‘23 collection is up for private pre-sale, with 40% off using VIP40. Dresses come in piles of kelly green ruffles or radiate from their collars with beams of alternating fabric and skin, tops are quietly complex in woven cuts or thoughtful ruching, silk purses braid into themselves with a gemstone’s sheen, and everything is elegant.
The spring/summer '23 haul at Italist is up to 50% off right now (55% starting May 17th) and contains a Blumarine crocheted dress that seems drawn from the collective consciousness of anyone who ever wanted to grow up to be a mermaid, the Miu Miu buckle bra, groovy Loewe sunglasses shaped like flowers for under $350, and 2,152 more pages of stock to comb through once you’ve gutted the SSENSE sale.
Lisa Says Gah is in sale-on-sale mode, with an extra 30% taken off in-cart. This gingham blouse from Batsheva is going for about $120, this puffy Baggu tote is $42, and these Magasin staff-tested and -beloved striped jeans from Gimaguas are $63. The caveat: Everything is going fast.
CUUP is offering 25% off all of its swimsuits, including the above-mentioned, brand-new one-pieces, all fashioned out of UPF 50 fabric and supportive in the way only a brand that started in bra territory could build.
Crack the lid on the Sunnei sale with our esoteric, privately issued password ygNJV53#L and enter the brand’s grotto of acid green neoprene sneakers, hugely discounted and vibrantly striped baseball caps, knit water bottle bags, and more to discover as you careen down the rabbit hole.
We try not to push superlatives on Magasin, but this pair of scrunchy silk “bloomers” from the Olivia Latinovich spring archive sale might be rightfully called the sweetest underwear of the season, and they’re in good company amongst mod, rolled-neck dresses, colorblock baby tees, and more retro-futuristic gems, all 50 to 70% off.
There’s also: Paris Georgia marks down collection 006 at its end-of-season sale; Justine Clenquet’s SS23 jewelry and shoes are 20% off with SUMMEROFLOVE; twin sister-helmed Medea is running an archive sale on its shopper-shaped leather bags; CB2’s warehouse sale takes up to 60% off mutable yet personality-packed household things, from bronze dinnerware to a couch shaped like a bowtie; most pieces up for grabs in the Raquel Allegra archive sale ring up under $100, like these wild, tie-dyed sweatpants; you can find some of the most unhinged, ineffably hot swimwear on the market right now for us to 60% off in the Tropic of C seasonal sale; sheer gowns and frilly tops pull no punches in either sweetness or sensuality and come at heavy discounts in Kitten’s sample sale; Ukrainian brand Kulakovsky’s mid-season sale takes 40% off its dynamic, exciting creations in leather, from a classic, weathered jacket to its matching midi skirt; piles of fluffy, shiny, and puffy outerwear are up to 70% off in the Nour Hammour sample sale; and a selection of Lonely Lingerie’s delicate-with-an-edge underwear is on sale for the month of May.

Shoppable observations from scenes of interest: #NEVERWORNS Sale of the Century with Chloë Sevigny.

The scene

I arrived for the event’s press hour at 11:40am, at which point the line was wrapping almost completely around the Soho city block where the sale was taking place. The first people in line had been there since 6am (doors were scheduled to open at noon).

Sale of the Century, an offshoot of #neverworns by Liana Satenstein, was hosting the closets of Chloë Sevigny, Lynn Yaeger, Sally Singer, Mickey Boardman, and The Academy.

Chloë’s archive took up most of the room, and I bought a Courrèges skirt with a satchel belt, a Jean Paul Gaultier cropped sweater, and a “JPG” FW05 velvet jacket. (“I’m pretty sure that’s fake,” Chloë told me. We looked at the tag together, it read “Jean’s Paul Gaultier,” but I got it anyway.)

A few trends stood out among the hosts, staff, and shoppers: mesh sports jerseys (notably worn by Chloë, as well as of Chloë as with a Supreme tee featuring her face worn by staffer Eden Pritikin), the Carhartt x Marni collab (seen on Tommy Dorfman and among Lynn’s items), Nike Air Rifts and Margiela tabis (all throughout the line), and a high volume of white tops with white midi skirts dressing attendees.

By the time I left the building at 12:30pm, the line had already wrapped fully around and was doubled up halfway around the block.

60 seconds with Chloë Sevigny

“I have a bit of anxiety—I want all the kids to get in and get something they like. [I had a hard time letting go of] some of the denim. I feel like I should keep it forever because it will come around or my son will want it. I’m selling some vintage Levi’s, Calvin Klein, some patchwork. I’m trying to go on a little bit of a [shopping] hiatus—it’s the purge—but I did just buy…Haley who is your friend who makes the boxer skirts?” Haley Wollens: “Duality Junkie. My internet’s not working but you can take a picture.” C: “Yeah, he makes these skirts out of boxer shorts—I just bought two of them.”

60 seconds with Lynn Yaeger

“I think all of these Comme des Garçons coats are really good even though I have high prices on them, I think they’re fabulous. They’re archival. I haven’t shopped anyone else’s pieces, I’m trying to dump stuff today. But I’m always shopping. I bought a Dries coat like two days ago. It’s a heavy linen with big, beaded flowers all over it. Because that’s just what I need, right?”

60 seconds with Liana Satenstein

“I’ve been doing Sally [Singer]’s closet for four years now, and then I started doing Lynn’s. We decided to do a sale back in November, the three of us together, and The Academy was there too. We were shocked there was such a big turnout. The latest one happened after I was doing an interview with Chloë when I was still at Vogue about her archive. I invited her to the [first] sale because I know she’s friends with Lynn and Sally, and then on the phone she was like, ‘Wait, you do this?’ And I was kind of scared because I know this woman has a crazy closet. We started working on [the most recent sale] in December, and then we took a road trip to her storage unit in an undisclosed location and we cleaned it out. She has incredible stuff. We got a U-Haul and hired a driver, and then we all Ubered back.

One of my favorite things—Clémence [Polès] got it—was this Hugo Boss mini skirt, that she was like, ‘I wore this to death.’ She also had a really cool t-shirt that said ‘Just Do Me.’ She just has really fun stories behind things. I got this light leather biker jacket that wasn’t even hers, it was her husband’s. There’s only so much you can give to a third-party website to sell. Doing this is a really fun way to really engage with the clothing and learn the stories behind them.”

Interviews have been edited and condensed for clarity.

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With contributions from Em Seely-Katz