063: On 𝒯𝒽𝑒 list

Plus Uniqlo x JW Anderson, a Helmut Lang surplus sale, and The Outnet's under-$100 Dion Lee clearance.

Oct 26, 2022

As the indicator lights of season change switch on—commenting on how eerily the temperature shift lines up with the equinox, asking the GC their opinion on Sheertex, retweeting the “sun won’t set after this time until next year” weather service announcement—I grow more obsessed with codifying the upward fashions of the moment.

Most likely, I’m doing this all the time, at least in the background. But a couple of editorial projects have pushed me to identify and concretely qualify the products earning their “The” honorific. (See past years’ The Nanushka jacket, The Mango boots, The Max Mara coat.)

Obviously Magasin’s fall shopping doc was a large part of this body of research (and a bulb in the blinking arrow that pointed towards summer’s gas station sunglasses wave), as was my IG Story call this week that asked point blank: “What is the season’s most coveted fashion item?” These community contributions, plus intel from the Lyst Index, SSENSE’s trending items, Net-A-Porter’s best-sellers, Lauren Santo Domingo’s closet via Moda Operandi, my IG saves and screenshots folder, and so on and so forth, cultivate a glowing Sims diamond over the heads of a handful of products cosigned by many influential hands.

On our collective conscious for FW22/23 are: The Toteme scarf coat. The Coperni Swipe bag. The Khaite Admiral boots. The Row zipped boots. The Loewe balloon heels. The Bottega curved coat. The Sandy Liang ballet flats. The Prada sheer paneled skirt. The Gucci mini Ophidia.

To qualify as a “The” item, specificity is key. Popular items that come in too many varieties don’t feel “The”-ish enough to me. For example, “The tabis” isn’t a thing people say, because all the styles from loafers to boots to ballet flats feel relevant. And while of course “The” items can be found in fame and infamy through all of RTW history—The Tom Ford-Gucci thong, The YSL Mombasa, The (ahem) John Galliano newspaper dress—it’s this present-tense induction period that we’re currently studying, and more interestingly, collectively steering.

Assembling this list, it is impossible not to place myself among the items. Is this a thing I want or am I just aware of it? Is this a piece I might buy and wear lovingly for many years to come, or will it go the way of my Jacquemus Le Chiquito, a thing I worshipped then could barely bring myself to look at after only a season?

I don’t think I ever stuttered, but in case there was doubt, let me say that I love the ancillary “It” item experience. I bought the Realisation Par leopard print skirt before all the thinkpieces, wore my oversized Frankie Shop suit to death (i.e. am sending it to Club Vintage next time), and couldn’t sleep until I had the Christopher Esber abs dress—the Matisse-y print one—in my grips. I just got the Miu Miu skirt, in case you needed any last proof of my subjectiveness to sporadic groupthink buy-brain.

They may not get as many wears as my Burberry gabardine coat or Vince cashmere sweater that make their way into every outfit for six months of the year, but guess what, haters? Sometimes it’s fun to participate in the culture.

I know I missed some essentials in this season’s abbreviated list, so let me know what you think 𝒯𝒽𝑒 hottest fall items are in the comments.

What’s new

The Uniqlo x JW Anderson FW22 collection, which I wrongly anticipated would be second tier next to Uniqlo U from earlier this season, has landed and brought with it a double-faced coat that possesses the ease, dynamism, and French elegance (British betrayal looks good on JWA) of a garment thrice its price. It’s $180 and comes in a wool-blend black or dark gray, with a laissez faire fabric belt and hikable collar. Aside from that standout, the next obvious gets are the many fun, patterned socks (and just like that we’re back to British).
Loro Piana’s Q4 marketing push is evidently having its intended effect on me. The cashmere brand’s FW22 collection has landed at Bergdorfs, and my first reaction was marveling that, passing through The Row’s luxury gateway, the vast world of finer things can only grow infinitely vaster. Judging by its recent “Cocooning” campaign (which I likened last send to a Hygge revival), LP hopes to be the next stop on the ascendant spender’s journey. Maybe by the time I reach retiring-to-the-English-countryside age, I’ll be able to afford this Loro Piana dress code to match.
$: The fact that the last time so many of us bought anything nice for our homes was in a pandemic-era panic is a karmic nightmare. Dinner party season, need I remind, is well underway, and its main event—The Holidays—looms near. Urban Outfitters Home’s latest sets the tone for buoyant conversation shared over kitchen-cooked meals and potlucks, for a Friendsgiving you’ll remember by its intrepid tableware for years to come.
The Laila Gohar x HAY “Sobremesa” table setting collection whose announcement preceded the food artist’s own brand serving nearly exactly the same territory, Gohar World, has finally, finally launched. The collection’s titular phrase refers to the time spent around the table after the meal has ended—it’s the non-food part of dining that most concerns me, personally—and the rustic, Mediterranean-inspired ceramics and napkins that comprise it, anathema to the efficiencies of modern dining, invite just that kind of behavior.
Tekla turns to Le Corbusier for inspiration in its latest launch, a heavenly thick mohair blanket handwoven by Spanish artisans in the French-Swiss designer’s “Architectural Polychromy” palette of horizon blues, ice-cream green, and smudged pink. Limited edition, and at $745, it’s not the kind of item one gifts lightly, but for the right recipient (to whom “studio-apartment” evokes something guttural), it could very well be the end of a life-long search.
French and Swedish obsessiveness for detail and design coalesce in a three-SKU shoe collaboration between ATP Atelier and Maison Kitsune. The two heeled boots and single blocky loafer in black and green are for the brave and self-knowing wearer.
There’s also: Reformation enters beauty for the first time ever in a collaboration with Saie, collaborating with the brand on a new shade, “Ref Rose,” of its much-hyped Super Glow highlighter; MyTheresa launches an exclusive Self-Portrait holiday dressing capsule; Lee launches an online archive of its 20th century styles, appearing to kick things off with its Storm Rider Jacket, a jean jacket circa ‘53 that features a contrast corduroy collar; for its 20th anniversary, Proenza Schouler launches a re-edition capsule featuring its top styles over the years; Anine Bing taps Marie von Behrens-Felipe for a vintage costume jewelry-inspired collection of 14k gold chunky chain necklaces and bracelets; Vans Vault x Connor Tingley release an exclusive, hand-drawn checkerboard Low Authentic LX, only available at Dover Street Market; model Kate Bowman launches Kitten, a line of Nabokovian sheer, frilly dresses entering through the door at which Mirror Palais and Heavy Manners once knocked; makeup brand Lime Crime opens the Velvetines Vault, a destination for copping archived editions of its cult-followed matte liquid lippies; LA’s hill-bound vegetal haven Flamingo Estate launches its Euphoria Collection of candles and self-cleansing products; Eterne, the basics brand recommended many times over on this newsletter, launches Eterne Soir, its selection of evening (as in going out, not sleeping) basics; Tombolo x Hotel Magique releases its third collaborative collection, featuring escapist styles for diving, scuba and waterskiing; Jenna Lyons’ eyelash project Loveseen launches an exclusive line at Target; and Sophie Lou Jacobsen unveils a limited edition glassware collaboration with Ghia—the Totem Glasses come in tempting Paris and Provence colorways.

What’s on sale

The Helmut Lang surplus sale has no business being this good, and if you don’t believe me enough to click, consider the multiple $30 baby tees I just bought and the fact that I don’t recall seeing a thing over $200 the entire time I scrolled. It goes up to 85%, and as it’s reaching a close, an extra 10% discount has been automatically added. Sweaters hover in the $75 range, while knits range from $60 to $120, denim hugs both sides of $100, and the knit romper I was eyeing months back (and wouldn’t have worn until now anyway) is about $300 off.
You can tell a sale is serious when a site rolls out the big text-only announcement to homepage. The Outnet’s clearance sale is LOUDLY on right now, at up to 85% off. It’s good, real stuff, too, not just the castoffs you couldn’t believe they accepted in the first place: Acne jeans for $50, lots of Dion Lee for under $100, even a beauuutiful Simone Rocha skirt for a mortal sub-$400.
German brand MYKITA’s sunglasses are made for all but are especially loved by men, and they’re among the best brands to shop for shades these days. Having collaborated with Helmut Lang, Martine Rose, and Leica (and worn by Cate Blanchett, Beyonce, Bella), the emphasis on innovation and edge is clear. They usually retail, fairly, in the multi-hundreds, but an online sample sale through the end of the month brings a few dozen styles down to 50% off.
Chicago-based Notre is one of those stores like Voo or Maimoun or Totokaelo (RIP) that people rally around and develop their personal through. With the necessary caveat that exclusions apply, it’s an infrequent treat to see a 25% off sitewide sale with FALL25 on such a good selection. From Chopova to rarified New Balances to Kiko (a good high water mark for the buy), there’s a near-impossible wealth of new-in options to satiate your daring side with.
For 1 week only, when you spend $220, take 30% off your order at Mango with EXTRA30. Although the viral boots from a couple autumns ago I mentioned in the intro are no longer anywhere to be found, the site’s fall offering makes it easy to get your money’s worth at just a hair over 200 bucks given the quality of leather they’re using lately, not to mention their outerwear that’s been reliable for years.
Weather savant Stutterheim is hosting an archive sale that reaches up to 50% off on raincoats, wellies, waterproof bags, hats, and even some surprisingly fashionable waders. Meanwhile, it’s also running a 20% sale on just yellow things, like anything from the site that is yellow in color (including already-on-sale items), with code YELLOWEEN.
While it can’t compete with bb sis The Outnet on discounts, Net-A-Porter’s current promo has a muscly leg up on newness and recognition. Just-in runway pieces from Coperni, Diane Keaton’s massive Margiela jeans, and the Lisa Yang cashmere from your wishlist are all 15% to 25% off, depending on your order value.
It’s not theeeEeEe sale, but it might be more fun this way: SSENSE is running a secret 20% off discount on new season styles with US2022 (if you’re in the US, otherwise FW2022 for 15% off elsewhere). Since I’ve been keeping abreast of all the latest incoming, here are a few ideas from my wishlist: these trompe l’oeil Margiela jeans, the “other” Toteme scarf coat, this Loulou Studio shearling (a personal “The”), this tender Marge Sherwood patent bag.
There’s also: Elegantly unfinished leather shoe brand Feit has marked down a selection of dwindling styles in its Last Pairs sale up to 50% off, including a pair of suede gardener clogs and some buttery indoor slippers that feel exceptionally of the moment; Universal Standard’s once-yearly denim sale is live, with jeans in 22 sizes down to $35; Girlfriend Collective is extending 30% off activewear bundles; loungewear brand Richer Poorer (reviewed by Becky Malinsky this week) is hosting a fall sale up to 70% off; underwear brand NKD/INT (fka Naked Intersection) is offering 25% off sitewide with FALLSALE; the Instagram brand that became the blueprint for other IG brands, Heavy Manners, is hosting a deep-cutting sale on its typical assortment ($20 cropped polos, $40 sweats), plus great deals (under $150) on real leather separates; Gohar World is encouraging gift shopping en masse with a 10% off incentive on candle and table accessory purchases over $500; Flattered’s archive sale has virtually every style of shoe or boot you’re thinking of buying right now marked down to under $300; Bandier’s warehouse sale is on, at up to 80% off; and there’s a Shopbop “Sale Preview” happening…whatever that means…it’s literally a sale…with around 4,000 items up to 40% off.

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