063: On đŻđ˝đ list
Plus Uniqlo x JW Anderson, a Helmut Lang surplus sale, and The Outnet's under-$100 Dion Lee clearance.
As the indicator lights of season change switch onâcommenting on how eerily the temperature shift lines up with the equinox, asking the GC their opinion on Sheertex, retweeting the âsun wonât set after this time until next yearâ weather service announcementâI grow more obsessed with codifying the upward fashions of the moment.
Most likely, Iâm doing this all the time, at least in the background. But a couple of editorial projects have pushed me to identify and concretely qualify the products earning their âTheâ honorific. (See past yearsâ The Nanushka jacket, The Mango boots, The Max Mara coat.)
Obviously Magasinâs fall shopping doc was a large part of this body of research (and a bulb in the blinking arrow that pointed towards summerâs gas station sunglasses wave), as was my IG Story call this week that asked point blank: âWhat is the seasonâs most coveted fashion item?â These community contributions, plus intel from the Lyst Index, SSENSEâs trending items, Net-A-Porterâs best-sellers, Lauren Santo Domingoâs closet via Moda Operandi, my IG saves and screenshots folder, and so on and so forth, cultivate a glowing Sims diamond over the heads of a handful of products cosigned by many influential hands.
On our collective conscious for FW22/23 are: The Toteme scarf coat. The Coperni Swipe bag. The Khaite Admiral boots. The Row zipped boots. The Loewe balloon heels. The Bottega curved coat. The Sandy Liang ballet flats. The Prada sheer paneled skirt. The Gucci mini Ophidia.
To qualify as a âTheâ item, specificity is key. Popular items that come in too many varieties donât feel âTheâ-ish enough to me. For example, âThe tabisâ isnât a thing people say, because all the styles from loafers to boots to ballet flats feel relevant. And while of course âTheâ items can be found in fame and infamy through all of RTW historyâThe Tom Ford-Gucci thong, The YSL Mombasa, The (ahem) John Galliano newspaper dressâitâs this present-tense induction period that weâre currently studying, and more interestingly, collectively steering.
Assembling this list, it is impossible not to place myself among the items. Is this a thing I want or am I just aware of it? Is this a piece I might buy and wear lovingly for many years to come, or will it go the way of my Jacquemus Le Chiquito, a thing I worshipped then could barely bring myself to look at after only a season?
I donât think I ever stuttered, but in case there was doubt, let me say that I love the ancillary âItâ item experience. I bought the Realisation Par leopard print skirt before all the thinkpieces, wore my oversized Frankie Shop suit to death (i.e. am sending it to Club Vintage next time), and couldnât sleep until I had the Christopher Esber abs dressâthe Matisse-y print oneâin my grips. I just got the Miu Miu skirt, in case you needed any last proof of my subjectiveness to sporadic groupthink buy-brain.
They may not get as many wears as my Burberry gabardine coat or Vince cashmere sweater that make their way into every outfit for six months of the year, but guess what, haters? Sometimes itâs fun to participate in the culture.
I know I missed some essentials in this seasonâs abbreviated list, so let me know what you think đŻđ˝đ hottest fall items are in the comments.
Whatâs new
The Uniqlo x JW Anderson FW22 collection, which I wrongly anticipated would be second tier next to Uniqlo U from earlier this season, has landed and brought with it a double-faced coat that possesses the ease, dynamism, and French elegance (British betrayal looks good on JWA) of a garment thrice its price. Itâs $180 and comes in a wool-blend black or dark gray, with a laissez faire fabric belt and hikable collar. Aside from that standout, the next obvious gets are the many fun, patterned socks (and just like that weâre back to British).
Loro Pianaâs Q4 marketing push is evidently having its intended effect on me. The cashmere brandâs FW22 collection has landed at Bergdorfs, and my first reaction was marveling that, passing through The Rowâs luxury gateway, the vast world of finer things can only grow infinitely vaster. Judging by its recent âCocooningâ campaign (which I likened last send to a Hygge revival), LP hopes to be the next stop on the ascendant spenderâs journey. Maybe by the time I reach retiring-to-the-English-countryside age, Iâll be able to afford this Loro Piana dress code to match.
$: The fact that the last time so many of us bought anything nice for our homes was in a pandemic-era panic is a karmic nightmare. Dinner party season, need I remind, is well underway, and its main eventâThe Holidaysâlooms near. Urban Outfitters Homeâs latest sets the tone for buoyant conversation shared over kitchen-cooked meals and potlucks, for a Friendsgiving youâll remember by its intrepid tableware for years to come.
The Laila Gohar x HAY âSobremesaâ table setting collection whose announcement preceded the food artistâs own brand serving nearly exactly the same territory, Gohar World, has finally, finally launched. The collectionâs titular phrase refers to the time spent around the table after the meal has endedâitâs the non-food part of dining that most concerns me, personallyâand the rustic, Mediterranean-inspired ceramics and napkins that comprise it, anathema to the efficiencies of modern dining, invite just that kind of behavior.
Tekla turns to Le Corbusier for inspiration in its latest launch, a heavenly thick mohair blanket handwoven by Spanish artisans in the French-Swiss designerâs âArchitectural Polychromyâ palette of horizon blues, ice-cream green, and smudged pink. Limited edition, and at $745, itâs not the kind of item one gifts lightly, but for the right recipient (to whom âstudio-apartmentâ evokes something guttural), it could very well be the end of a life-long search.
French and Swedish obsessiveness for detail and design coalesce in a three-SKU shoe collaboration between ATP Atelier and Maison Kitsune. The two heeled boots and single blocky loafer in black and green are for the brave and self-knowing wearer.
Thereâs also: Reformation enters beauty for the first time ever in a collaboration with Saie, collaborating with the brand on a new shade, âRef Rose,â of its much-hyped Super Glow highlighter; MyTheresa launches an exclusive Self-Portrait holiday dressing capsule; Lee launches an online archive of its 20th century styles, appearing to kick things off with its Storm Rider Jacket, a jean jacket circa â53 that features a contrast corduroy collar; for its 20th anniversary, Proenza Schouler launches a re-edition capsule featuring its top styles over the years; Anine Bing taps Marie von Behrens-Felipe for a vintage costume jewelry-inspired collection of 14k gold chunky chain necklaces and bracelets; Vans Vault x Connor Tingley release an exclusive, hand-drawn checkerboard Low Authentic LX, only available at Dover Street Market; model Kate Bowman launches Kitten, a line of Nabokovian sheer, frilly dresses entering through the door at which Mirror Palais and Heavy Manners once knocked; makeup brand Lime Crime opens the Velvetines Vault, a destination for copping archived editions of its cult-followed matte liquid lippies; LAâs hill-bound vegetal haven Flamingo Estate launches its Euphoria Collection of candles and self-cleansing products; Eterne, the basics brand recommended many times over on this newsletter, launches Eterne Soir, its selection of evening (as in going out, not sleeping) basics; Tombolo x Hotel Magique releases its third collaborative collection, featuring escapist styles for diving, scuba and waterskiing; Jenna Lyonsâ eyelash project Loveseen launches an exclusive line at Target; and Sophie Lou Jacobsen unveils a limited edition glassware collaboration with Ghiaâthe Totem Glasses come in tempting Paris and Provence colorways.
Whatâs on sale
The Helmut Lang surplus sale has no business being this good, and if you donât believe me enough to click, consider the multiple $30 baby tees I just bought and the fact that I donât recall seeing a thing over $200 the entire time I scrolled. It goes up to 85%, and as itâs reaching a close, an extra 10% discount has been automatically added. Sweaters hover in the $75 range, while knits range from $60 to $120, denim hugs both sides of $100, and the knit romper I was eyeing months back (and wouldnât have worn until now anyway) is about $300 off.
You can tell a sale is serious when a site rolls out the big text-only announcement to homepage. The Outnetâs clearance sale is LOUDLY on right now, at up to 85% off. Itâs good, real stuff, too, not just the castoffs you couldnât believe they accepted in the first place: Acne jeans for $50, lots of Dion Lee for under $100, even a beauuutiful Simone Rocha skirt for a mortal sub-$400.
German brand MYKITAâs sunglasses are made for all but are especially loved by men, and theyâre among the best brands to shop for shades these days. Having collaborated with Helmut Lang, Martine Rose, and Leica (and worn by Cate Blanchett, Beyonce, Bella), the emphasis on innovation and edge is clear. They usually retail, fairly, in the multi-hundreds, but an online sample sale through the end of the month brings a few dozen styles down to 50% off.
Chicago-based Notre is one of those stores like Voo or Maimoun or Totokaelo (RIP) that people rally around and develop their personal through. With the necessary caveat that exclusions apply, itâs an infrequent treat to see a 25% off sitewide sale with FALL25 on such a good selection. From Chopova to rarified New Balances to Kiko (a good high water mark for the buy), thereâs a near-impossible wealth of new-in options to satiate your daring side with.
For 1 week only, when you spend $220, take 30% off your order at Mango with EXTRA30. Although the viral boots from a couple autumns ago I mentioned in the intro are no longer anywhere to be found, the siteâs fall offering makes it easy to get your moneyâs worth at just a hair over 200 bucks given the quality of leather theyâre using lately, not to mention their outerwear thatâs been reliable for years.
Weather savant Stutterheim is hosting an archive sale that reaches up to 50% off on raincoats, wellies, waterproof bags, hats, and even some surprisingly fashionable waders. Meanwhile, itâs also running a 20% sale on just yellow things, like anything from the site that is yellow in color (including already-on-sale items), with code YELLOWEEN.
While it canât compete with bb sis The Outnet on discounts, Net-A-Porterâs current promo has a muscly leg up on newness and recognition. Just-in runway pieces from Coperni, Diane Keatonâs massive Margiela jeans, and the Lisa Yang cashmere from your wishlist are all 15% to 25% off, depending on your order value.
Itâs not theeeEeEe sale, but it might be more fun this way: SSENSE is running a secret 20% off discount on new season styles with US2022 (if youâre in the US, otherwise FW2022 for 15% off elsewhere). Since Iâve been keeping abreast of all the latest incoming, here are a few ideas from my wishlist: these trompe lâoeil Margiela jeans, the âotherâ Toteme scarf coat, this Loulou Studio shearling (a personal âTheâ), this tender Marge Sherwood patent bag.
Thereâs also: Elegantly unfinished leather shoe brand Feit has marked down a selection of dwindling styles in its Last Pairs sale up to 50% off, including a pair of suede gardener clogs and some buttery indoor slippers that feel exceptionally of the moment; Universal Standardâs once-yearly denim sale is live, with jeans in 22 sizes down to $35; Girlfriend Collective is extending 30% off activewear bundles; loungewear brand Richer Poorer (reviewed by Becky Malinsky this week) is hosting a fall sale up to 70% off; underwear brand NKD/INT (fka Naked Intersection) is offering 25% off sitewide with FALLSALE; the Instagram brand that became the blueprint for other IG brands, Heavy Manners, is hosting a deep-cutting sale on its typical assortment ($20 cropped polos, $40 sweats), plus great deals (under $150) on real leather separates; Gohar World is encouraging gift shopping en masse with a 10% off incentive on candle and table accessory purchases over $500; Flatteredâs archive sale has virtually every style of shoe or boot youâre thinking of buying right now marked down to under $300; Bandierâs warehouse sale is on, at up to 80% off; and thereâs a Shopbop âSale Previewâ happeningâŚwhatever that meansâŚitâs literally a saleâŚwith around 4,000 items up to 40% off.
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